We dress to communicate who we are, or who we would like others to think we are, telling seductive fashion narratives through our adornment. Yet, today, fashion has been democratized through high-low collaborations, social media and real-time fashion mediation, complicating the basic dynamic...... of identity displays, and creating tension between personal statements and social performances. Fashioning Identity explores how this tension is performed through fashion production and consumption,by examining a diverse series of case studies - from ninety-year old fashion icons to the paradoxical rebellion...... by readdressing Fred Davis' seminal concept of 'identity ambivalence' in Fashion, Culture and Identity (1992), Mackinney-Valentin argues that we are in an epoch of 'status ambivalence', in which fashioning one's own identity has become increasingly complicated....
New York City Board of Education, Brooklyn, NY. Div. of Curriculum and Instruction.
This curriculum bulletin provides a curriculum for a one-year course in fashion merchandising, offered in the third year of the marketing education sequence. It is designed to give students majoring in marketing a survey of basic information about the field of fashion merchandising. Students are offered the opportunity to become familiar with a…
González, A.M. (Ana Marta)
While critical views inherited from the past still influence our appraisal of fashion, its pervasiveness in contemporary society calls for an explanation. In this article I attempt to show how the importance of fashion in our society is the result of a combination of a structurally modern space and Romantic cultural ideals. I conclude that, despite its frivolous appearance, fashion is not only a powerful social indicator, but also a particular means of bringing together the divers...
Andersen, Bjørn Schiermer
-- an outline which at the same time indicates the need for transformations of the Durkheimian model on decisive points. Thus, thirdly, it returns to Durkheim and undertakes to develop his concepts in a direction suitable for a sociological theory of fashion. Finally, it discusses the theoretical implications......This article attempts to create a framework for understanding modern fashion phenomena on the basis of Durkheim's sociology of religion. It focuses on Durkheim's conception of the relation between the cult and the sacred object, on his notion of 'exteriorisation', and on his theory of the social...... symbol in an attempt to describe the peculiar attraction of the fashion object and its social constitution. However, Durkheim's notions of cult and ritual must undergo profound changes if they are to be used in an analysis of fashion. The article tries to expand the Durkheimian cult, radically enlarging...
Tiré du site Internet de Onestar Press: "A collection of fashion photographies by Vier5, Wather Pfeiffer, Steeve Beckouet selected by Vier5 from their last 5 years of work. It includes also a column by Kate Pierson and an interview by Barbara Klemm for Fairy Tale Magazine".
Abe, Kaori; Suzuki, Teppei; Ueta, Shunya; Nakamura, Akio; Satoh, Yutaka; Kataoka, Hirokatsu
The paper presents a novel concept that analyzes and visualizes worldwide fashion trends. Our goal is to reveal cutting-edge fashion trends without displaying an ordinary fashion style. To achieve the fashion-based analysis, we created a new fashion culture database (FCDB), which consists of 76 million geo-tagged images in 16 cosmopolitan cities. By grasping a fashion trend of mixed fashion styles,the paper also proposes an unsupervised fashion trend descriptor (FTD) using a fashion descripto...
Zhang, D.; Benedetto, Di A.C.
This is a study of the related concepts of radical fashion and radical fashion innovation. Radical fashions are defined here as those that may never enter the market at all, and exist primarily on runway shows, in exhibitions and in publicity; by contrast, radical fashion innovations may be very
F. Polese; R.L. Blaszczyk
The article discusses the state of the art of fashion studies with a specific focus on the difficulties and tasks faced by business historians interested in the analysis of the evolution of fashion as a business.
Bright, S.; Aletti, V.
This stunning book explores the symbiotic relationship between contemporary portrait photography and fashion. The book presents the intensely unconventional, often unnervingly intimate portraiture being made by five of the most creative and original fashion photographers at work in the world
This book presents high-quality original contributions on the fashion supply chain. A wide spectrum of application domains are covered, processing of big data coming from digital and social media channels, fashion new product development, fashion design, fashion marketing and communication strategy, business models and entrepreneurship, e-commerce and omni-channel management, corporate social responsibility, new materials for fashion product, wearable technologies. The contents are based on presentations delivered at IT4Fashion 2016, the 6th International Conference in Business Models and ICT Technologies for the Fashion Supply Chain, which was held in Florence, Italy, in April 2016. This conference series represents a targeted response to the growing need for research that reports and debates supply chain business models and technologies applied to the fashion industry, with the aim of increasing knowledge in the area of product lifecycle management and supply chain management in that industry.
Al-Halah, Ziad; Stiefelhagen, Rainer; Grauman, Kristen
What is the future of fashion? Tackling this question from a data-driven vision perspective, we propose to forecast visual style trends before they occur. We introduce the first approach to predict the future popularity of styles discovered from fashion images in an unsupervised manner. Using these styles as a basis, we train a forecasting model to represent their trends over time. The resulting model can hypothesize new mixtures of styles that will become popular in the future, discover styl...
The aim of this thesis is to analyze customer loyalty and market fashion apparel, identify customer perception and participation in loyalty programs. Evaluate current approaches of using customer loyalty programs by the biggest fashion houses. Based on the research results suggest recommendations for creating loyalty programs on the market with fashion and clothing. The solution was used focus group methods, questionnaire probes, expert interviews, desk research and market testing, which focu...
This thesis examines advertisement in fashion blogs. The theoretical part of the research discusses blogs and the social media in general, analyzes the decision-making process of the fashion consumer, along with general consumer behavior, and then examines ethical issues and the various advertising and marketing tools used in blogs. The objective of this thesis is to ascertain how blog readers are reacting to the growing amount of advertisement currently present in fashion blogs and the ...
Gregory, Margaret R.
This curriculum guide is designed to help teachers teach a course in fashion merchandising to high school students. The guide contains eight performance-based learning modules, each consisting of one to seven units. Each unit teaches a job-relevant task, and includes performance objectives, performance guides, resources, learning activities,…
This first volume on detox fashion discusses various interesting topics including a Toxic-Free Supply Chain for Textiles and Clothing; Environmental Issues in Textiles; Global Regulations, Restrictions & Research; Making the Change: Consumer Adoption of Sustainable Fashion; and Strategies for Detoxing Your Wardrobe. It provides an overview of the chemical-related issues confronting the fashion sector, summarizes global regulations, and discusses how to make the change by changing consumers’ attitude towards adopting sustainable fashion, as well as the best strategies for detoxing our wardrobes.
Kores, Nancy; Watson, Kathy
This curriculum guide is designed to ensure student attainment of basic home economics content knowledges and skills that will provide a strong foundation for employment in the fashion industry. Competency/skill and task lists are followed by employability skills charts for the occupations of fashion coordinator and fabric coordinator; the charts…
Kemperman, A.D.A.M.; van Delft, L.; Borgers, A.W.J.; Pantano, E.
This chapter gives insight into consumers' online and offline fashion shopping behavior, consumers' omni-channel usage during the shopping process, and consumer fashion shopper segments. Based on a literature review, omni-channel shopping behavior during the shopping process was operationalized.
Sommerlund, Julie; Jespersen, Astrid Pernille
of handling multiple, fluid realities with multiple, fluid methods. Empirically, the paper works with mediation in fashion - that is efforts the active shaping of relations between producer and consumer through communication, marketing and PR. Fashion mediation is by no means simple, but organise complex...
A vibrant fashion scene is emerging in Africa, spearheaded by a new generation of young fashion entrepreneurs. Drawing on a multi-sited study of Ghanaian, Ugandan and Zambian female designers, this article examines the emerging fashion industry as a site for entrepreneuring where people......’s aspirations to bring about personal, cultural and socio-economic development converge. The paper reveals how fashion designers envision their endeavours as pathways for pursuing their passion, for changing the associations ascribed to ‘Africanness’, and for revitalising failing clothing industries in Africa....... The paper proposes that while the emerging character of the industry creates uncertainty and many obstacles for running viable businesses, fashion designers remain enthused by narratives about the industry’s future prospects....
In a bold move intended to reinvigorate growth in the global mobile phone market, Siemens Mobile last year created Xelibri. This new handset range of radically different shapes and wearable designs has been positioned in the market as a fashion accessory rather than as a communications tool. Both the phones and the accompanying advertising campaign are treating Xelibri as a fashion brand, with handsets being sold in department stores and fashion outlets as well as specialist handset retailers. Two months after the launch in Europe, Xelibri made their Asian debut in Hong Kong,Singapore and China in June 2003.
Riegels Melchior, Marie; Skov, Lise; Csaba, Fabian
emanate from Denmark and secure growth, jobs and exports even outside the fashion business has taken hold among policymakers, and compelled the government to embrace fashion as a national project. In investigating the emergence and rising stature of Danish fashion, particular at home, we first establish...... a theoretical frame for understanding the cultural economic policy and the motives, principles and strategies behind it. Then – drawing inspiration from Michel Callon’s “sociology of translation” with its moments of translation: problematization, interessement, enrolment and mobilization – we identify...... the actors and analyze their strategic roles and interrelationship through various phases of the development of Danish fashion. Callon’s actor network theory (ANT) is based on the principle of “generalized symmetry” – originally using a single repertoire to analyze both society and nature. We adapt...
A vibrant fashion scene is emerging in Africa, spearheaded by a new generation of young fashion designers. Drawing on a multi - sited study of Ghanaian, Ugandan and Zambian female designers, this article examines the emerging fashi on industry as a site for entrepreneuring where people......’s aspirations to bring about personal, cu ltural and socio - economic development converge. The paper reveals how fashion designers envision their endeavours as pathways for pursuing their passion, for changing the associations ascribed to ‘Africanness’, and for revitalising failing clothing industries....... The paper proposes that while th e emerging character of the industry creates uncertainty and many obstacles for running viable businesses, fashion designers remain enthused by narratives about the industry’s future prospects....
This master thesis investigates studies on fashion oriented people according to the "Outfit-Centric Accessories" concept. The outfit-centric accessories concept originated from recent research study by Juhlin and Zhang (2011) about mobile phone representation in fashion and Aesthetic of Interaction area of Human-Computer Interaction (HCI). The term outfit-centric accessories originated from clothing and wearer. In this concept an outfit is playing a role as the centerpiece and a mobile phone ...
This essay is based on the assumption that the body has undergone a process of fragmentation that started with "modern" art and commodity fetishism that is being amplified today by an increasingly fetishistic high fashion industry itself relayed by music videos and a gigantic pornography industry. This article begins with a discussion of fetishism and objectification as they appear in high fashion shows where underwear becomes wear (turning the inside into the outside), thus expanding (or dis...
Kjeldgaard, Dannie; Bengtsson, Anders
From being considered a marginal and sometimes deviant behavior, the consumption of tattoos has become a mass consumer phenomenon. As tattoos have gained in popularity, it can be expected that the reasons for why people get tattoos have shifted as well. This paper explores consumers’ motivations...... for getting a fashion tattoo and the meaning associated with its consumption. Through phenomenological interviews with fashion tattooees, the themes 'art/fashion’, 'personalization and biographing’, 'contextual representation of self’, and 'meanings?’ are related to existing consumption theory....
This thesis study: How consumers’ attitudes to fashion are influenced by fashion blog usage. Identifying some characteristics of the a-list fashion bloggers. The variables that are assumed to influence the domain of fashion blogs are expertise, authenticity, authority, social identity, private- and social self image. Fashion blogs was found to be an important source of influence, for some taking over the role of fashion magazines. All the variables studied were foun...
Echevskaya O. G.
Full Text Available The article discusses the emergence and development of fashion blogging phenomenon in Russia. First, we discuss theoretical approaches to the analysis of fashion in sociology are reviewed, and the conceptual framework for understanding the interaction between fashion bloggers and fashion industry. Then, based on the materials of interviews with popular Russian fashion bloggers, we show how, originating from regular private dairies fashion blogs eventually transform into the specialized platform for translation of fashion-related information. Often the status of their owners is perceived as professional in the sphere of fashion. Such bloggers become the active part of the fashion community which allows them to be included into the process of making and transmitting the fashion trends.
Full Text Available This essay is based on the assumption that the body has undergone a process of fragmentation that started with "modern" art and commodity fetishism that is being amplified today by an increasingly fetishistic high fashion industry itself relayed by music videos and a gigantic pornography industry. This article begins with a discussion of fetishism and objectification as they appear in high fashion shows where underwear becomes wear (turning the inside into the outside, thus expanding (or dissolving the traditional notion of pornography because they are both reported in comparable terms by mainstream magazines such as Femmes and less conventional publications such as Penthouse . A comparable phenomenon takes place in the novels of Hervé Guibert where internal organs (that is the inside become literary characters (as "outside" through medical imagery. Finally, an issue of the French New Look magazine is analyzed because it features a high fashion collection next to a pictorial/essay on Issei Sagawa, a.k.a. "the Japanese Cannibal." Here again, the objectification of the dismembered body is taken a step further both by designer Jean-Paul Gaultier and Sagawa. It thus appears that the human body is nowadays being totally invested by commodity fetishism, rendering gender difference obsolete and opening a new space that so far has no name, and announces the final merging of high fashion, literature, pornography, and music videos.
Winthrop Coll., Rock Hill, SC. School of Home Economics.
The curriculum guide (developed by the South Carolina Office of Vocational Education, the School of Home Economics of Winthrop College, business leaders, and distributive educators) is designed for the teaching of a one-year distributive education specialty program for 12th grade students interested in pursuing a career in fashion merchandising.…
North Carolina State Dept. of Public Instruction, Raleigh. Div. of Vocational Education Services.
Developed to address the needs of the apparel industry, this fashion merchandising curriculum guide is designed to assist marketing educators in effective instructional delivery. Introductory materials include the following: a course blueprint that illustrates units of instruction, core competencies in each unit, and specific objectives for each…
In this paper design-led innovation is theorized from a double perspective: A diverse range of design types and strategies used in the luxury fashion business is presented through the prism of entrepreneurship as defined within the tradition of the Austrian School of Economics, especially Carl......-led innovation methods at work; and further that these can be easily integrated into a specific conception of Design Management....
as a continuation of the way teaching in fashion design and research on fashion is perceived in the various cases. This of course implements the fact that there are very diverse perceptions on what fashion research is. A main discussion therefore concerns current methodological diversities in fashion research......The report “Fashion Research at Design Schools” (2008), which was commissioned by Institute for Fashion and Textiles at Designskolen Kolding, appoints the potentials and challenges in relation to the ongoing academization of design schools, with a specific focus on fashion research. The key...... research question is: “What kind of fashion design education is Designskolen Kolding aiming to offer in the future, what kind of skills will the students need in their future work place, the fashion industry, and can research work as a potential in this process?” The study is based on qualitative...
Fang Ma; Huijing Shi; Lihua Chen; Yiping Luo
Both the theory of top-down penetration of fashion consumption (Veblen - Simmel model) and the theory of bottom-up fashion consumption have been found consistent with the consumer behavior in the China¡¯s fashion consumer market and the trend of such behavior keeps growing. Therefore, it is necessary to carry out a study on fashion consumption to meet the needs of the development of real life and fashion consumption. Firstly, we describe the content of fashion consumption, discuss the connota...
Engholm, Ida; Hansen-Hansen, Erik
Fashion as a phenomenon cannot be understood indepen- dently of the visual images and designed presentations that convey the content and forms of fashion. With the breakthrough of the digital media in the 2000s we were introduced to new ways of communicating and staging fashion where the blog...... in particular has established a new media culture for the distribution and exchange of potential fashion-based self-presentation forms and resulted in new design strategies. In this article, the fashion blog is presented as a specific genre that is charac- terised by remediating existing genre forms and combin......- ing them into new formats, where amateur bricolage approaches are combined with the reproduction of fam- iliar features from the established fashion media. The article presents four types of fashion blogs, each represent- ing a specific design strategy for presenting and interact- ing with fashion...
The fashion industry has changed rapidly in recent years with the increased prevalence of fast fashion, impacting the environment. Efforts to green this polluting industry require action from businesses and consumers.
The bachelor thesis studies the usage of fashion blogs in the marketing communication. It brings the view of the fact how fashion blogs are perceived by their readers and how readers are influenced by fashion blogs. The theoretical part of the thesis describes marketing communication, communication process, communication mix and online marketing. It is followed by characteristics of blogs and social networks. The practical part is dealt with the description of how my own fashion blog works an...
Engholm, Ida; Hansen-Hansen, Erik
- ing them into new formats, where amateur bricolage approaches are combined with the reproduction of fam- iliar features from the established fashion media. The article presents four types of fashion blogs, each represent- ing a specific design strategy for presenting and interact- ing with fashion...
The Indonesians came, they saw and we learned more about their spicy blend of fashion and fun, in the streets of London. Here’s a slice of what’s going on in the emerging global Modest Fashion scene.
Preti, Antonio; Usai, Ambra; Miotto, Paola; Petretto, Donatella Rita; Masala, Carmelo
Fashion models are thought to be at an elevated risk for eating disorders, but few methodologically rigorous studies have explored this assumption. We have investigated the prevalence of eating disorders in a group of 55 fashion models born in Sardinia, Italy, comparing them with a group of 110 girls of the same age and of comparable social and cultural backgrounds. The study was based on questionnaires and face-to-face interviews, to reduce the bias due to symptom under-reporting and to social desirability responding. When compared on three well-validated self-report questionnaires (the EAT, BITE, BAT), the models and controls did not differ significantly. However, in a detailed interview (the Eating Disorder Examination), models reported significantly more symptoms of eating disorders than controls, and a higher prevalence of partial syndromes of eating disorders was found in models than in controls. A body mass index below 18 was found for 34 models (54.5%) as compared with 14 controls (12.7%). Three models (5%) and no controls reported an earlier clinical diagnosis of anorexia nervosa. Further studies will be necessary to establish whether the slight excess of partial syndromes of eating disorders among fashion models was a consequence of the requirement in the profession to maintain a slim figure or if the fashion modeling profession is preferably chosen by girls already oriented towards symptoms of eating disorders, since the pressure to be thin imposed by this profession can be more easily accepted by people predisposed to eating disorders.
on fashion education and fashion research, that are “taken for granted” in the institutional culture of each case. Because of the diversity between the cases, a cultural-oriented comparison has been made, where every case is perceived as idiographically unique (Thyge Winther-Jensen 2004). Descriptions......The report “Fashion Research at Design Schools” (2008), which was commissioned by Institute for Fashion and Textiles at Designskolen Kolding, appoints the potentials and challenges in relation to the ongoing academization of design schools, with a specific focus on fashion research. The key...... research question is: “What kind of fashion design education is Designskolen Kolding aiming to offer in the future, what kind of skills will the students need in their future work place, the fashion industry, and can research work as a potential in this process?” The study is based on qualitative...
Istiani, Ade Nur
Penelitian berjudul “Konstruksi Makna Hijab Fashion bagi Moslem Fashion Blogger di Indonesia” dilatarbelakangi oleh perkembangan busana muslim di Indonesia yang mengalami peningkatan dalam beberapa tahun terakhir. Fenomena tersebut tidak terlepas dari pengaruh gaya hidup masa kini yang tidak dapat dipisahkan dari teknologi. Blog yang merupakan perkembangan teknologi media baru (new media) dimanfaatkan oleh para Moslem Fashion Blogger untuk mengekspresikan gaya berbusana muslim seb...
Pinar GOKLUBERK OZLU
Full Text Available Some problems like rapidly developing industrialization, irregular population growth, environmental pollution and to feel the impact of global warming as seriously, has been giving significant damage to the earth. People has realized that, after polluting to clean is harder than polluting of the measures to be taken before. And again people showed the sensitivity to the environment through different reactions and sanctions, took measures and created the new concepts about the enviroment. "Ethical Fashion" concept was created by the conscious and responsible individuals in the last two decades. However, that are being implemented as a concept is noticeable. Textile and fashion industry cover "Ethical Fashion"; ecological product, working conditions, fair trade and sustainable product are all in that concept. "Ethical Fashion" appeared and developed especially in United Kingdom, the USA and the other European countries. Nowadays, we may see a lot of textile and fashion designers, fabric and clothing collections, fairs and some specific courses at the universities about "Ethical Fashion". In this research contains "Ethical Fashion" concept, it's development processes and fashion designers who is working for this concept at the present time, also the main target is in this research, semtinizing "Ethical Fashion" concept.
Full Text Available Under the global trend of sustainability, many companies selling fashion products have to reshape their operational strategies. Over the past few years, we have witnessed many fashion companies going green by re-engineering their business processes and establishing their formal sustainability programs. Many important topics, such as closed-loop supply chain management, corporate social responsibility, and economic sustainability, are all related to sustainable fashion business operations management. This paper provides a brief review of these critical topics, introduces the special issue, and proposes future research areas to achieve sustainable operations management in the fashion business.
The report “Fashion Research at Design Schools” (2008), which was commissioned by Institute for Fashion and Textiles at Designskolen Kolding, appoints the potentials and challenges in relation to the ongoing academization of design schools, with a specific focus on fashion research. The key......, interactionistic interviews (Järvinen and Mik-Meyer, 2005) with key persons from the respective research- and fashion departments from eight selected design schools in Holland, England and USA. The analysis of each case is inspired by Edgar E. Schein’s levels of culture (Schein 1994), that aims to pinpoint both...
Full Text Available Fashion has been a subject for most fields of art, starting from visual arts to cinema and literature. The metamorphoses of fashion, an art in itself, are under the sign of history that marked the social during the evolution of humanity. The present paper makes a reference to the links between fashion and Klimt’s work. Klimt proved to be a visionary by means of his visual, unique and unmistakable signature concerning the way he treated the clothed woman. As he worshipped the female body, he portrayed it, reflecting the fashion style of an era that was meant to be renewed. His work, strongly influenced by feminine values, became conspicuous as a manifesto against the rigidity of the Viennese society in the late nineteenth century and early twentieth century. The modernity of Klimt’s vision generated the metamorphosis of the woman model, from the corseted woman until that time, and not only in terms of fashion, to the freed woman, using the metaphorical instruments of his art. The artist’s complex creativity helps us find him in four different situations, all in close connection with fashion art: the painter Klimt, who portrays woman who shows herself by showing her garment; the fashion designer Klimt who suggests outfits for his collaborator, Emilie Flöge, remoulding the dress as a clothing item; the fashion photographer from the photographs of Emilie Flöge wearing his creations; and, indirectly, by his paintings from the cycle Women, which had a powerful impact on contemporary fashion. Such a complex, visionary creator, whose painting and fashion interfere, is worth mentioning for his contribution to the fashion art avatars.
Ontario Dept. of Education, Toronto.
GRADES OR AGES: Grades 11 and 12. SUBJECT MATTER: Fashion arts and marketing. ORGANIZATION AND PHYSICAL APPEARANCE: The guide is divided into two main sections, one for fashion arts and one for marketing, each of which is further subdivided into sections for grade 11 and grade 12. Each of these subdivisions contains from three to six subject…
Cheek, Wanda K.; Easterling, Cynthia R.
Counterfeiting, which has always been somewhat of a problem in several different industry settings, has recently become an epidemic in the fashion industry. Widespread and seemingly endless counterfeiting of fashion goods is costing the industry millions of dollars in lost profits and tarnishing the image of many luxury brands. This article…
Jain, S.; Bruniaux, J.; Zeng, X.; Bruniaux, P.
Significant work has been done in the field of big data in last decade. The concept of big data includes analysing voluminous data to extract valuable information. In the fashion world, big data is increasingly playing a part in trend forecasting, analysing consumer behaviour, preference and emotions. The purpose of this paper is to introduce the term fashion data and why it can be considered as big data. It also gives a broad classification of the types of fashion data and briefly defines them. Also, the methodology and working of a system that will use this data is briefly described.
Throughout the chapter, it is pointed out how fashion media traditionally fuel on unsustainable imbalances of self, in terms of affluence, gender, ethnicity, body types and age. The chapter opens with a historic outline. Here, the close alliance between media and industry is problematized, whilst...... at the same time it is highlighted how these media have produced some of the most significant imagery of modern times. Pushing the envelope of this format, Skjold suggests how fashion art magazine and user-generated style magazines might hold the key for new templates challenging existing hegemony, this way...... establishing more sustainable fashion media in the future....
Fashion has been a subject for most fields of art, starting from visual arts to cinema and literature. The metamorphoses of fashion, an art in itself, are under the sign of history that marked the social during the evolution of humanity. The present paper makes a reference to the links between fashion and Klimt’s work. Klimt proved to be a visionary by means of his visual, unique and unmistakable signature concerning the way he treated the clothed woman. As he worshipped the female body, he ...
This Master's Thesis deals with the Czech fashion scene. Development of fashion is outlined in the introduction. It should help to understand the whole market. The work deals with marketing of fashion brands and focuses primarily on marketing Czech fashion brands offering fashions for women. Czech fashion scene is analyzed in detail and pointed out the weaknesses that need to be improved. In connection with the findings outlined here is a solution that should help Czech fashion scene.
Gwozdz, Wencke; Gupta, Shipra; Gentry, Jim
make the case that style orientations lead to more sustainable patterns than do fashion orientations. Consumers aged 16-35 were surveyed in national surveys in five countries as to their apparel usage, their fashion versus style orientations, their perspectives of sustainable fashion, and their quality...... of life in a variety of domains. We hypothesize that older consumers will be more style-oriented than younger consumers, and that style-orientation will be associated with higher levels of quality of life than fashion-orientation.......This manuscript takes a macro perspective of consumer satisfaction in order to investigate whether one can argue that consumer satisfaction with the apparel industry may compensate in a cost/benefit sense for the environmental harm caused by the production, maintenance, and disposal of apparel. We...
Flavia Jakemiu Araújo Bortolon
Full Text Available Fashion is composed of cycles subpostos trends that seek to eliminate the past for a new one, which makes it ephemeral and eternal at the same time. This study investigates how is the relationship between these cycles of trends over time, through a brief history of fashion, considering the theoretical rules of Simmel, Crane and Caldas. They will still be used concepts proposed by Agamben, such as: device, in order to classify the system of the fashion; contemporaneidade, to understand the action of that factor in relation to the time and profanation, to identify the capacity to maintain in the society. It is ended that the fashion, as well as the death, renews the society, it destroys and it creates the new, as a system naturalized artificially
The goal of this thesis is to define the fashion industry and identify the key developments that the segment has undertaken over the last two to three decades including the drivers behind these changes. Specifically, the thesis will provide insights into the financial indicators of the industry and review some of the most recent trends such as globalisation of supply chains and internationalisation of fashion retailers. The second section of the theoretical part will try to identify what are ...
Shuttleton, David E
This essay considers why the eighteenth century has particular significance for anyone concerned with the cultural forces necessary to render a disease fashionable. A brief overview of a pervasive cult of sensibility addresses the role of popular medical writing, imaginative literature, and spas in circulating a romanticized model of nervous disorders as signs of intellectual and moral superiority. Attention is drawn to the ambiguity in the term "fashionable" implying "popular," but also something that might be contrived; to what extent were Georgian fashionable diseases merely cultural constructs? Here the medicalization of masturbation suggests a limit-case. The discussion concludes with an individual case history as reported to the leading academic physician William Cullen.
Fakkert, M.-S.; Voorveld, H.A.M.; van Reijmersdal, E.A.; Banks, I.B.; De Pelsmacker, P.; Okazaki, S.
Recently Fashion TV series have gained more and more popularity among young women worldwide (Dehnart 2008; Seidman 2010). Fashion TV series are an immensely popular TV genre portraying the world of fashion and the accompanying glamorous lifestyle.
The aim of this thesis is to examine today’s fashion from a business perspective. In this thesis fashion business is examined through fashion history, fashion industry and life cycle, today’s fast fashion and also consumer behavior in fashion. This thesis is conducted for a Finnish fashion business, InStyle. InStyle is a family based fashion business operating mainly via online and monthly trade fairs. There is also a physical store in Savonlinna which sells InStyle brands. Though the ow...
Full Text Available In this paper, from the designers, engineers, scientists and technicians are working multidisciplinary and developed in process of time; electronic textiles, smart textiles, nano technology, 3D printed textiles and coded couture. As a result today generated "Wearable Technology". Designer creates contemporary fashion design products and concepts will be examined in this paper. Since the mid-twentieth century, to today’s XXI Century, living an important technological development for the future of fashion is to ensure the creation of high tech fabrics with functional textile fibers. 21st Century avant-garde fashion designers: Hussein Chalayan, Ryan Genz & Francesca Rosella and Anouk Wipprecht are working on the future garment design and determine a new visions that the texture of the emerging trends and technologies in the area of fashion. They realized that the importance of innovation in their collections. For this reason, textile engineers and scientists are working together and investigating various technologies to develop a variety of innovative fabrics or garments.
This teacher's guide presents material for a unit on introduction to fashion buying. Content focuses on information sources, retail store types, the responsibilities of a buyer, and the qualifications of a buyer. The guide contains 4 objectives, 4 group learning activities keyed to the objectives, 17 transparency masters with dialogue for each,…
A model of fashion cycles is developed in which fashion is used as a signalling device in a "dating-game". We assume that there is a designer (monopolist) who can create new designs at a positive fixed cost and zero marginal cost. Designs are durable commodities. We show the existence of equilibria of the following form: Every T periods a new design is innovated. Over time the price of the design falls and it spreads to more and more agents. Once sufficiently many agents own the design it is ...
The study concentrates on exploring international clothing franchise and particularly international clothing franchise in Finland. The main objective of the research is to discover obstacles Finnish franchisees encounter when bringing an international fashion franchise to Finland and recommendations that are beneficial to their success. The thesis is inclined to exploit aspects concerning franchisees’ perspectives. In the literature review, main concepts presented are franchising, franchi...
Robinson, Joyce Robin
The purpose of this study was to examine relationships among environmental influences, changes in domain specific knowledge, and changes in tolerance of ambiguity as well as changes in creativity of individuals majoring in fashion design at four-year universities. This study was based on the confluence theoretical approach which holds that…
Cao, Zhigang; Gao, Haoyu; Qu, Xinglong; Yang, Mingmin; Yang, Xiaoguang
Fashion plays such a crucial rule in the evolution of culture and society that it is regarded as a second nature to the human being. Also, its impact on economy is quite nontrivial. On what is fashionable, interestingly, there are two viewpoints that are both extremely widespread but almost opposite: conformists think that what is popular is fashionable, while rebels believe that being different is the essence. Fashion color is fashionable in the first sense, and Lady Gaga in the second. We investigate a model where the population consists of the afore-mentioned two groups of people that are located on social networks (a spatial cellular automata network and small-world networks). This model captures two fundamental kinds of social interactions (coordination and anti-coordination) simultaneously, and also has its own interest to game theory: it is a hybrid model of pure competition and pure cooperation. This is true because when a conformist meets a rebel, they play the zero sum matching pennies game, which is pure competition. When two conformists (rebels) meet, they play the (anti-) coordination game, which is pure cooperation. Simulation shows that simple social interactions greatly promote cooperation: in most cases people can reach an extraordinarily high level of cooperation, through a selfish, myopic, naive, and local interacting dynamic (the best response dynamic). We find that degree of synchronization also plays a critical role, but mostly on the negative side. Four indices, namely cooperation degree, average satisfaction degree, equilibrium ratio and complete ratio, are defined and applied to measure people’s cooperation levels from various angles. Phase transition, as well as emergence of many interesting geographic patterns in the cellular automata network, is also observed. PMID:23382799
... for Earlier Diagnosis What if we could diagnose Alzheimer's before symptoms started? The hope is, future treatments ... diagnosis is among the most active areas in Alzheimer's science, and funding from the Alzheimer's Association has ...
Montazer, Z.; Zare Bidoki, F.
Have you ever heard about Iranian needlework? The needlework of Iran have always been the sign of love, patience and activation. This art that ornaments the surface of fabric with colourful yarns, uses needle is considered as one of the widest branches of handicrafts. Nowadays there are at least 42 branches of needleworks in Iran and among these, the Zoroastrian embroidery is the oldest one. We try to make a new perspective on this art by quickening this beautiful art and designing it on modern fabrics and also combining it with fashion tourism. Iran has a touristic potential in culture, because of its rich, mysteries history and every year thousands of tourists come to Iran to know more about human history and as Yazd is the main region of Zoroastrians occupation that every year attract many tourists and also is famous for its textiles so we start our study in this city. The conclusion of the study emphasized the fact that there is room for the fashion industry to open the new contribution to tourism in Yazd State. However, this depends on the development of a separate frame work for fashion tourism in Iran
Full Text Available As society advances and technology changes,fashion design has developed from the initial few exclusive to public demand, and fashion category also covers all walks of life, extends to every area from a single demand to industrialization. Fashion design development, has become an indispensable part of people's lives. Fashion satisfies public demand, reflecting the public interest towards, and designer correctly grasp of fashion and taste of popular motivated the design of continuous innovation to creating new business value, cultural values of the social value of fashion. A precise definition to fashion is hard, cause too broad as it relates to areas, such as products, clothing, entertainment, advertising, decoration, home, fashion is reach into every aspect of our lives. Fashion derived from life elements, convergence elements of era and innovation into your life all over again, this cycle forward and updated, fully embodies the understanding of art and life. Design enriches life, life gave birth to fashion.
Alica Grilec Kaurić
Fashion marketing explores connection between fashion design and marketing including development, promotion, sales and price aspects of fashion industry. Successful fashion marketing managers are aware that the most important fashion marketing elements are customer trend identification, building strong brands and creating positive image of the producers. This paper presents the findings of a research conducted for the purpose of identifying trends in marketing sector in textile and clothing i...
As society advances and technology changes,fashion design has developed from the initial few exclusive to public demand, and fashion category also covers all walks of life, extends to every area from a single demand to industrialization. Fashion design development, has become an indispensable part of people's lives. Fashion satisfies public demand, reflecting the public interest towards, and designer correctly grasp of fashion and taste of popular motivated the design of continuous innovation...
Full Text Available The objective of this research was to analyze personal branding development from personal brand identity, personal brand positioning, and personal brand assessment. The object of this research was Diana Rikasari's blog “Hot Chocolate and Mint”. She is one of prominent influence and fashion blogger from Indonesia. The research used the qualitative method with data collection by virtual observation from June until August 2016. Rikasari’s personal branding showed on her blog was the fashionably smart woman who had entrepreneurship competence. This research finds out that Diana Rikasari success to make her personal identity by her blog profile and blog posting. Her positioning is clear as Indonesian modern woman. The personal brand assessment can be seen through the achievements and feedbacks on her blog post, both positive or negative.
Burkinshaw, Mal; Shearer, Linda
The fashion industry has a very narrow approach to diversity of image and there is clear evidence that the industry continues to promote an unhealthy and generic view of body shape, beauty, race and age. We are entering an era where emotion and experience are increasingly important in both personal and professional development. People are looking for diversity, meaning and integrity in what they do and what they buy and are embracing individualism after a prolonged period of mass-market consu...
Social media platforms like Facebook, YouTube and Twitter, etc… are fundamentally changing the way business and consumers behave. It has created chances and challenges for the marketers. The main objective of the study is to figure out whether Facebook can be used to create brand awareness in the fashion industry. It also finds out methods and tactics of Facebook marketing. Moreover, it aims to explore the benefits and pitfalls of using Facebook marketing compared to traditional marketing. A ...
Acerbi, Alberto; Ghirlanda, Stefano; Enquist, Magnus
Many cultural traits exhibit volatile dynamics, commonly dubbed fashions or fads. Here we show that realistic fashion-like dynamics emerge spontaneously if individuals can copy others' preferences for cultural traits as well as traits themselves. We demonstrate this dynamics in simple mathematical models of the diffusion, and subsequent abandonment, of a single cultural trait which individuals may or may not prefer. We then simulate the coevolution between many cultural traits and the associated preferences, reproducing power-law frequency distributions of cultural traits (most traits are adopted by few individuals for a short time, and very few by many for a long time), as well as correlations between the rate of increase and the rate of decrease of traits (traits that increase rapidly in popularity are also abandoned quickly and vice versa). We also establish that alternative theories, that fashions result from individuals signaling their social status, or from individuals randomly copying each other, do not satisfactorily reproduce these empirical observations. PMID:22412887
Full Text Available Many cultural traits exhibit volatile dynamics, commonly dubbed fashions or fads. Here we show that realistic fashion-like dynamics emerge spontaneously if individuals can copy others' preferences for cultural traits as well as traits themselves. We demonstrate this dynamics in simple mathematical models of the diffusion, and subsequent abandonment, of a single cultural trait which individuals may or may not prefer. We then simulate the coevolution between many cultural traits and the associated preferences, reproducing power-law frequency distributions of cultural traits (most traits are adopted by few individuals for a short time, and very few by many for a long time, as well as correlations between the rate of increase and the rate of decrease of traits (traits that increase rapidly in popularity are also abandoned quickly and vice versa. We also establish that alternative theories, that fashions result from individuals signaling their social status, or from individuals randomly copying each other, do not satisfactorily reproduce these empirical observations.
The paper argues that fashion demand is cyclical because of the signaling role of fashion. Agents use fashion goods to signal their typeâ€”e.g., their wealthâ€”and to screen the type of other agents. A fashion good is an effective signal as long as its price is high and only high types have an incentive to buy it. Over time producers will lower the price of the fashion good to sell the good to lower types. This leads to a degradation of the signaling value of the fashion. Eventually, there is...
The bachelor thesis deals with the principles of sustainable fashion and related marketing techniques, to which fashion brands often resort. This issue is explored by the author in the context of the Czech fashion scene, using in-depth interviews with representatives of Czech fashion brands. The topic is first introduced from a theoretical point of view, where the term "sustainable fashion" is explained to the reader and he gets more familiar with the individual lifecycle phases of a fashion ...
Full Text Available Is she looking as royal as can be? Dressing the part of a princess? Popular media texts, such as magazines completely devoted to celebrity matters, dealing with reports on who is wearing what at which occasion, provide the empirical outset for this textual study on the representations of the Scandinavian princesses of today: Mary (Denmark, Mette-Marit (Norway, Victoria (Sweden and Madeleine (Sweden. In this article the princesses are, on a theoretical level, considered stars with their own images, images constructed in a similar way as film stars, with fashion and appearance as the focal point. In popular media texts, such as the Swedish woman's magazine Svensk Damtidning, the styles of the princesses are scrutinised, compared and evaluated. These mappings are in this way further examined, and the topics surrounding the representations are surveyed. The themes selected for supplementary examination are personal style and Cinderella narrative, as they emerge as intimately interrelated with fashion. The epithet princess, in the sense “what a princess ought to look like”, is given in terms of aestheticised appearance: body, fashion and personal style, is thus discussed and theorised throughout the article. Hence, the purpose of this article is to examine the roll of dress and the matter of appearance concerning the representations of the Scandinavian princesses, relating to the themes of style and consumption, as well as the transformation narratives. How are these royal styles constructed, on a designer level as well on a thematic level? Therése Andersson, Ph.D., Cinema Studies, currently employed at the Department of History, Stockholm University. Her doctoral thesis is entitled Beauty Box: Film Stars and Beauty Culture in Early 20th Century Sweden. She has recently finished her post doctoral research project Sofia Coppola's Marie Antoinette, granted by Anna Ahlström and Ellen Terserus Foundation, and is currently working on the research
Martins, S B; Martins, L B
People who lie beyond the "standard" model of users often come up against barriers when using fashion products, especially clothing, the design of which ought to give special attention to comfort, security and well-being. The principles of universal design seek to extend the design process for products manufactured in bulk so as to include people who, because of their personal characteristics or physical conditions, are at an extreme end of some dimension of performance, whether this is to do with sight, hearing, reach or manipulation. Ergonomics, a discipline anchored on scientific data, regards human beings as the central focus of its operations and, consequently, offers various forms of support to applying universal design in product development. In this context, this paper sets out a reflection on applying the seven principles of universal design to fashion products and clothing with a view to targeting such principles as recommendations that will guide the early stages of developing these products, and establish strategies for market expansion, thereby increasing the volume of production and reducing prices.
Full Text Available This note anchors Manish Arora's journey by placing it in the twin context of the fashion industry and that of internationalisation from an emerging economy. Creating and managing a fashion brand involves coping with the peculiarities of the fashion industry. Further, Arora's success in gaining a toehold in the global fashion market throws light on the odds that companies from emerging economies face as they venture into advanced international markets.
Customer Relationship Management in the Fashion Industry The fashion industry is a product of the modern age. In ancient times, most of clothes were handmade, or so-called home-made, which were made on individual basis. Due to the development of new technologies, the rise of global capitalism, the expansion of factory systems, the attitude towards the concept of clothing was shifting. The fashion industry consists of four levels: raw material, the design of fashion goods, manufacturing, marke...
Langkjær, Michael Alexander
Book review. Roger Padilha and his brother Mauricio may already be familiar to some as the New York-based fashion publicists, creators of the fashion public relations agency MAO PR, and as authors of The Stephen Sprouse Book (Rizzoli, 2009). Antonio Lopez: Fashion, Art, Sex & Disco, their second...
intermediaries" (Bourdieu, 1984) which designates a certain class of people. Empirically, the paper works with the cultural and aesthetic economies - and with fashion in particular. Using the mediator as central concept, the paper presents empirical stories from the field of fashion, and fashion marketing...
ERTÜRK, Nilay; özüdoğru, şakir
Fashion, in broad and accepted definition, is any temporary preference or a temporary new thing in any area of human life, which prevails for a certain period of time. The issue of how fashionable products would look like in a particular season is discussed under the concept of fashion trends. The main purpose of this study is to discuss the concept of fashion trends and the studies on predictions in fashion trends, to conduct a sample trend survey for a silhouette and observe whether or not ...
Fashion collaboration becomes a common marketing strategy for many fashion brands in order to attract consumers’ attentions and stand out from competitors. The purpose of this dissertation is to explore the formation of consumers’ attitudes toward fashion collaboration. First, it intends to distinguish different types of consumers, which are higher fashion involvement and lower fashion involvement. Second, by utiliseing four different variables, which are prior attitudes, product fit, brand, ...
This study is a research and development aimed at developing multimedia interactive learning based animation as an effort to improve student learning motivation in learning Fashion Design Technology apart from this study also aims to design a learning program courses Fashion Design Technology with a focus on optimizing the use of interactive media in learning process. From this study showed 1 A preliminary study found that the problems faced by students when studying Fashion Design Technology...
Alica Grilec Kaurić
Full Text Available Fashion marketing explores connection between fashion design and marketing including development, promotion, sales and price aspects of fashion industry. Successful fashion marketing managers are aware that the most important fashion marketing elements are customer trend identification, building strong brands and creating positive image of the producers. This paper presents the findings of a research conducted for the purpose of identifying trends in marketing sector in textile and clothing industry in Croatia. The research was conducted through personal interviews with marketing and company managers in Croatia. The research identified that marketing is insufficiently implemented in Croatian textile and clothing industry, despite growing brand management importance. However, because of lack in marketing knowledge and bad brand management, development of fashion brand is the most critical factor in successful business activity in textile and clothing industry.
Batista, Luciano; Ng, Irene
Challenging the sceptical view that consumers would not buy apparel and accessories without feeling the fabric and testing for size and look, online fashion sales is growing fast. Yet, the myriad of recent business model developments in the sector depicts a disorderly environment lacking frameworks and typologies to facilitate understanding and explain different business propositions. In this paper, we report the preliminary findings of a work-in-progress study being developed in the fashion ...
Ananda, Artha Sejati; Hernández García, Ángel; Lamberti, Lucio
Industries nowadays have been comfortable with the incorporation of social media to their marketing strategy. Italy has been known as a major center of the European fashion industry, a sector that is also following the social media marketing trends. This paper provides empirical findings on Italian luxury fashion brands? social media marketing activities. We present and analyze two case studies of Italian luxury fashion brands: Gucci and The Bridge (Il Ponte Pelletteria). Gucci is one of worl...
Hasan, Syed Akif; Subhani, Muhammad Imtiaz; Osman, Ms. Amber
The behavior of following the most in vogue and admired styles of dressing has been there since the ancient times. With time, people have moved on with the rapid change in the surroundings. Both the genders acknowledge fashion. Fashion is an extension of regular clothing. This paper investigates the role of economical players which includes per capita income and inflations in shaping up the various trends/ fashion trends/ trends in clothing and their consumptions for Pakistan, India, United S...
Riisberg, Vibeke; Folkmann, Mads Nygaard
, sustainable fashion. In programming the didactical setting for the students’ projects, several aesthetics must be considered: the aesthetic codes of the textile and fashion design discipline, both in terms of materials and expression, deriving from within the design practice itself and the aesthetic codes...... of mediated expressions seen in e.g. fashion magazines which create a frame of aestheticization influencing how fashion expressions are valued. In this tension between internal aesthetics and external aestheticization, the students are set out to create a new design expression for sustainable design which...
Carleo, A. Susan
A description is provided of Family and Consumer Studies 13: Fashion Analysis, an introductory course on the basic principles of fashion and clothing, giving special consideration to the impact of societal, cultural, religious, and psychological factors on clothing choices. First, general information is provided on the course, its place in the…
W.A. Dolfsma (Wilfred)
textabstractFashion is the quintessential post-modernist consumer practice, or so many hold. In this contribution, I argue that, on the contrary, fashion should be understood as a means of communicating one's commitment to modernist values. I introduce the framework of the Social Value Network, to
Robertson, Horace C.; And Others
This curriculum guide was developed to be used as a resource guide to assist marketing and distributive education teachers in planning and teaching a course in fashion merchandising. First, an introductory section is devoted to the management of the fashion merchandising curriculum, including information on the guide's background, units of…
Bloothooft, G.; Schraagen, M.P.
Modern parents in The Netherlands choose the first names they like for their children. In this decision most follow fashion and as a typical property of fashion, many popular names now have a life cycle of only one generation. Some names show a symmetry between rise and fall of the name, but most
van der Velden, N.M.
The dissertation ‘Making Fashion Sustainable – The Role of Designers’ describes the PhD research of Natascha M. van der Velden on the envisioned role designers could take responsibility for in the transition towards a more sustainable fashion industry.
The current worldwide textile and apparel
Campbell, Rene Crepaldi; Gaudy, Glenna; Green-Jobe, Victoria; Hatch, Susan; Moen, Julianne; Sheldon, Shannon; Smith, Loree; Chessell, Karen
The mission of Fashion, Textiles and Design Education is to prepare students for family and community life and careers in the fashion industry by creating opportunities to develop the knowledge, skills, attitudes and behaviors needed to: (1) Examine skills needed to effectively manage clothing decisions; (2) Evaluate the use, care and production…
T. Brydges (Taylor); M. Lavanga (Mariangela); L. von Gunten (Lucia)
markdownabstractIn this chapter, we explore entrepreneurship in the slow fashion industry at a time of significant restructuring in the global fashion industry. Drawing on a case study of selfemployed designers in the slow fashion industry in Geneva (Switzerland), Rotterdam (The Netherlands) and
Anastasya Aleksandrovna Zhilina
Full Text Available The article considers a fashion as a real and an acting social fact that affects many aspects of the life of the individual and society. The interest in the ability to reflect the specific modes of social transformations becomes the basis for constructing a theoretical system of knowledge about it. Fashion as a scientific fact characterizes social processes that find manifestation in the outward culture forms and fashion meanings indicating the fashion values, which are endowed with certain properties of objects and events. Fashion, by definition, has a tendency to constant movement and innovation. So it always reflects the social and cultural content of a certain period, the essence of which is disclosed in its sociocultural context. Fashion phenomenon is associated with diverse social relationships, in this connection it is manifested in a multidisciplinary description of various scientific facts. The theory of fashion generation consists of separate concepts that complement each other or makes alternative viewpoints. The development of science requires a search for a new approach.
Gwozdz, Wencke; Gupta, Shipra; Gentry, Jim
, the notion of style is one promising avenue. While fashion is ever changing, following trends, style evolves slowly and continues to remain stable over time, expressing consumers’ ways of life. Thus, the created planned obsolescence by fashion could be reduced by the notion of style. The aim of this study...... is to investigate the potential of emphasizing style rather than fashion to enhance sustainability in fashion consumption. We suggest that as one ages, one tends to be less fashion-oriented. Further, higher style orientation enhances one’s ability to have more concern for the environment or knowledge about...... environmental apparel that further leads to sustainable consumption habits like environmental apparel consumption. Survey data across Germany, Sweden, UK and US is collected to examine the proposed relationships and thus provide insight on the role of fashion and style on sustainable fashion consumption....
Gwozdz, Wencke; Gupta, Shipra; Gentry, Jim
, the notion of style is one promising avenue. While fashion is ever changing, following trends, style evolves slowly and continues to remain stable over time, expressing consumers’ ways of life. Thus, the created planned obsolescence by fashion could be reduced by the notion of style. The aim of this study......Today, textile consumption is far from being sustainable with regard to production, purchase, maintenance, and disposal. The current fashion system is characterized by planned obsolescence, and environmental and social unsustainability. To resolve the tensions between sustainability and fashion...... is to investigate the potential of emphasizing style rather than fashion to enhance sustainability in fashion consumption. We suggest that as one ages, one tends to be less fashion-oriented. Further, higher style orientation enhances one’s ability to have more concern for the environment or knowledge about...
Fashion can be both material and immaterial subject, immaterial part of it can relate fashion goods as a material object to the thoughts of fashion. Immateriality lets the fashion be easily diffused by stream of information. The relation between fashion goods and thoughts about fashion is mutual since they can develop each other. In the case of Iran, struggles exist among individuals and the government about appearance. How fashion as a global phenomenon can influences youth in Iran and sprea...
Mok, P. Y.; Wang, X. X.; Xu, J.; Kwok, Y. L.
Computer aided design is vitally important for the modern industry, particularly for the creative industry. Fashion industry faced intensive challenges to shorten the product development process. In this paper, a methodology is proposed for sketch design based on interactive genetic algorithms. The sketch design system consists of a sketch design model, a database and a multi-stage sketch design engine. First, a sketch design model is developed based on the knowledge of fashion design to describe fashion product characteristics by using parameters. Second, a database is built based on the proposed sketch design model to define general style elements. Third, a multi-stage sketch design engine is used to construct the design. Moreover, an interactive genetic algorithm (IGA) is used to accelerate the sketch design process. The experimental results have demonstrated that the proposed method is effective in helping laypersons achieve satisfied fashion design sketches.
Full Text Available We explore in this paper the performance of sales rebate contracts in fashion supply chains. We conduct both analytical and numerical analyses via a mean-variance framework with reference to real empirical data. To be specific, we evaluate the expected profits and variance of profits (risk of the fashion supply chains, fashion retailers, and manufacturers under (1 the currently implemented sales rebate practices, (2 the case without sales rebate, and (3 the theoretical coordination situation (if target sales rebate is adopted. In addition, we analyze how sales effort affects the performances of the supply chain and its agents. Our analysis indicates that the rebate contracts may hurt the retailer and the manufacturer of a fashion supply chain when it is inappropriately set. Moreover, a properly designed sales rebate contract not only can coordinate the supply chain (with retail sales effort but can also improve expected profits and lower the levels of risk for both the manufacturer and the retailer.
Wagner, M.; Chen, Y.; Curteza, A.; Thomassey, S.; Perwuelz, A.; Zeng, X.
This paper intends to give an overview of the design solutions in fashion for environmentally conscious consumers, presenting green and ethical practices in contemporary clothing design. The results introduce the concept of slow fashion and discuss available fashion design solutions, giving most prominent examples of sustainable products and brands, these contain one or more design features. By this, the discussion extracts the main contemporary ideas. The presented examples of current offers are all envisioning less impact on the environment and society. Sustainable design solutions use more environmentally friendly materials such as organic cotton, incorporate circular design or design for recycling, e.g., replacing button closures with alternative closing possibilities or leather labels with printed versions, or ensure long product life through durability, among other methods. There are differing designs due to creators’ individuality. This overview can be beneficial for the future development of new solutions for more environmentally friendly fashion.
Riisberg, Vibeke; Folkmann, Mads Nygaard
, sustainable fashion. In programming the didactical setting for the students’ projects, several aesthetics must be considered: the aesthetic codes of the textile and fashion design discipline, both in terms of materials and expression, deriving from within the design practice itself and the aesthetic codes...... of mediated expressions seen in e.g. fashion magazines which create a frame of aestheticization influencing how fashion expressions are valued. In this tension between internal aesthetics and external aestheticization, the students are set out to create a new design expression for sustainable design which......This working paper is a discussion of different notions and conceptions of aesthetics that may be at play when developing new design. The empirical case of the paper derives from the context of design education in a module aimed at the development of a new design expression for contemporary...
Due to the booming economy of the country, the rising disposable income and strong desire of status expression, China is viewed as a promising land for the luxury industry, providing fertile ground for the growth of luxury goods suppliers. More and more famous foreign fashion businesses pour into China and brand them to attract Chinese customers for their higher priced. This paper examines the mindset of the Chinese luxury fashion goods consumers, the drives and their attitude towards luxury ...
Boydell, C. E.
This article focused on four publications from Berg’s ‘Dress, Body and Culture’ series. It situates these publications within the context of the development of dress and fashion studies and acknowledges dress and adornment as universal practices which aid our understanding of our individual and collective attempts to express identities. This article utilises a discussion and analysis of these publications to reflect on the current state of fashion theory and research. Drawing on the writer’s ...
Salas Pasuy, Brenda
Referring to fashion immediately we think in something which is ephemera and changing. Nevertheless, behind the production of an appeal garment there are many factors involved which interact to produce a final product attractive to the consumer. Fashion is not just the sale as itself, covers the image and the prestige from who creates the garment. Thus, the process of creation and production itself take us to value their importance in the context of international trade. In fact, they are good...
Russanti, Irma; Nurlaela, Lutfiyah; Basuki, Ismet; Munoto
Professional certification is a form of stipulation on certain competency standards provided by one professional organization to the performance of a person through assessment. For that an assessment needs to be standardized so that there exists a general standardized scale to measure competence. In the professional certification of fashion design department, an instrument of competency based assessment is essential to be developed. The purpose of this review is to know the application of competency based assessment in the field of fashion design. The literature reviews were found by journal searching with keywords competency based assessment and fashion design in Google scholar, of which was gotten over 20 journals from 2006 to 2016. Afterwards, the search of the free-downloaded e-books in libgen was conducted under competency based assessment and fashion design, which is then found some related references. The obtained literatures were used to review the definition, approach, and implementation of competency based assessment in the field of fashion design. Results show that it is important to develop an assessment sheet in the field of fashion design covering garment, apparel and embroidery sectors by patterning the criteria of performers along with the qualifications.
Nakayama, Shoichiro; Nakamura, Yasuyuki
In general, it is difficult to investigate social phenomena mathematically or quantitatively due to non-linear interactions. Statistical physics can provide powerful methods for studying social phenomena with interactions, and could be very useful for them. In this study, we take a focus on fashion as a social phenomenon with interaction. The social interaction considered here are “bandwagon effect” and “snob effect.” In the bandwagon effect, the correlation between one's behavior and others is positive. People feel fashion weary or boring when it is overly popular. This is the snob effect. It is assumed that the fashion phenomenon is formed by the aggregation of individual's binary choice, that is, the fashion is adopted or not. We formulate the fashion phenomenon as the logit model, which is based on the random utility theory in social science, especially economics. The model derived here basically has the similarity with the pioneering model by Weidlich (Phys. Rep. 204 (1991) 1), which was derived from the master equation, the Langevin equation, or the Fokker-Planck equation. This study seems to give the behavioral or behaviormetrical foundation to his model. As a result of dynamical analysis, it is found that in the case that both the bandwagon effect and the snob effect work, periodic or chaotic behavior of fashion occurs under certain conditions.
Ananda, Artha Sejati; Hernández García, Ángel; Lamberti, Lucio
Fashion is one of the most vibrant sectors in Europe and important contributors to the European Union (EU) economy. In particular, Small and Medium Enterprises (SMEs) play a major part in European fashion industry (EU 2012). Just like fashion, where people¿s style has inherently meant to be shared as it is foremost a representation of one¿s self-image, social media allow the reflection of ones' personality and emotions. Although fashion practitioners have embraced social media in their market...
Full Text Available Fashion and retail ought to be a happy marriage. Yet several entrepreneurs in the field of fashion speak of a climate that is difficult to penetrate because of economic and cultural factors. For example, the chain store concept is an expression of the specific and current fashion situation in Sweden: democratic fashion that is cheap and accessible. At the same time, customers now demand personal, unique and ethical fashions. However, there are few possibilities in this climate for low cost development in progressive Swedish design. This article addresses the questions of how special trade conditions are reflected in the relationship between fashion and retail, and how different interests and values are expressed in the culture of Swedish fashion. To gain a deeper understanding of diverse working conditions and strategies, this article analyzes the culture of the Swedish fashion business as a narrative of different social and cultural processes. A conclusion drawn is that a cultural perspective on the oppositions between different practices and logics in the fashion business may contribute to mapping and managing these oppositions.
Díaz-Soloaga, P. (Paloma)
The consolidation of collaborative video platforms such as YouTube and Vimeo in recent years has significantly changed the way fashion brands communicate with their audiences. Fashion films have emerged as a new and revolutionary tool adopted by luxury brands at the start of the XXI Century to construct their brands. A sample of 62 fashion films from 2006 to 2016 was analyzed in order to describe fashion film’s anatomy and its main characteristics that constitute an especial type of branded c...
Full Text Available Since the last quarter of the 20th century, particularly after the “cultural turn”, the interest in fashion has been increasing in a variety of different disciplines. Fashion has begun to be investigated in many different contexts, using new theoretical approaches. Fashion can be regarded as a social phenomenon, a sign system, as art, myth, or the product of the fashion industry. The purpose of this article is not to provide a definition of fashion, but rather to raise the question of how to approach the experience of fashion analytically. The methodological issues discussed here emerged in the course of preparing for empirical research on fashion. The observations and comparisons that constitute the core of this article are the result of efforts to juxtapose different methods. The traditional history of fashion used a historical-epistemological strategy but, depending on how one defines culture, the meaning of fashion can also be analysed using methods based on different epistemological strategies. The phenomenological method elaborated by Edmund Husserl, which I have chosen for my analysis of the experience of fashion, defines culture through the experiential acts of individuals. Simply stated, phenomenology considers the world as it is given to us in our consciousness. What is most important for empirical research is that the phenomenological method makes it possible to study the structure of a concrete experience and to focus on the mechanisms of the subjective creation of meaning. Thus this article has two main foci: a theoretical analysis of how the experience of fashion can be analytically revealed using the phenomenological method, and a comparison of the phenomenological approach with methods based on other strategies. The analysis of descriptions in the first person makes it possible to highlight how experience has been constructed. People “see” fashion based on structures of meaning; when they describe their own experience
Saricam, C.; Erdumlu, N.; Silan, A.; Dogan, B. L.; Sonmezcan, G.
The concept of sustainability has begun to gain importance in fashion industry. The companies, which are acting in sustainable fashion, want to gain recognition, inform the consumer about their products and services and generate a demand from the consumers. But the awareness of the consumers about sustainability is still an unknown. In this study, the level of awareness of consumers about sustainable fashion was tried to be determined with a survey established in Turkey in which the socio-demographic characteristics and the awareness level of the participants were questioned. The result of the survey showed that the level of awareness among the participants is not so high and the perception of sustainability is mostly limited to some aspects of sustainable fashion such as “Usage of organic materials” and “Recycling”. Besides, the analysis of the relation between socio-demographic characteristics and awareness level of sustainable fashion showed that the awareness level increased with the education level and income to some extent. But specifically, the males and the participants aged between 24-29 have higher levels of awareness compared with the other participants.
Full Text Available The questions related to the influence of fashion on consumer behavior are researched in the article. The importance of this research is conditioned, first of all, by the fact, that in the modern world the process of the development of the society of consumption is growing, and it is fashion that has become the social regulator of human activity. The aim of this article is to find out, what influence fashion produces on the behavior of consumers (negative or positive, and whether it is a means of human individualization. The research results show, that following fashion demonstrates the attitude of a consumer to society, to the surrounding world, to himself. On the one hand, a person wants to preserve his or her individuality, on the other hand, strives to identify himself with other members of society. The hidden desire to submit to the fashion contests the aspiration to be independent of it, not to imitate others, but to be different from them.
The Scottish Academy of Fashion (SAF) is an ambitious project to establish Scotland as a global centre for excellence in fashion related learning and commercially relevant research.Scotland has world-class education and globally recognised leaders in the fashion industry. It has a niche fashion and textile industry embedded in luxury fashion worldwide. Scotland attracts international talent to fashion-related education.SAF aims to develop an effective platform to combine these strengths, and ...
William, Livia Gabrielle
Interior Education Center Fashion in Samarinda City aims to find education center of fashion that can complete student's facilities, finding educational center of fashion that produces interior design educational, informative, and presentative, find educational center of fashion which can show elements of Indonesian culture, discover fashion education center that can attract people in Samarinda. The expected benefits of this research is for the public forum for people who have become fashion ...
Kim, Taewan; Kim, Seyeong; Na, Sangil; Kim, Hayoon; Kim, Moonki; Jeon, Byoung-Ki
We build a large-scale visual search system which finds similar product images given a fashion item. Defining similarity among arbitrary fashion-products is still remains a challenging problem, even there is no exact ground-truth. To resolve this problem, we define more than 90 fashion-related attributes, and combination of these attributes can represent thousands of unique fashion-styles. The fashion-attributes are one of the ingredients to define semantic similarity among fashion-product im...
Fashion Inst. of Tech., New York, NY.
The fashion merchandising guide is the fourth of a series of five interrelated program resource guides encompassing the various dimensions of the fashion industry. The job-preparatory guide is intended to provide youths and adults with intensive preparation for initial entry employment and also with career advancement opportunities within the…
Toeters, M.J.; Feijs, L.M.G.
The fashion system recycles the same ideas over and over again, with a very low rate of innovation. We found each other at the cutting edge of fashion innovation and claim that much, much more innovation is possible. We found it is time to analyse our collaborative work and put it in the global
Ash, Summer; Rice, Emily L.; Jarreau, Paige B.
STARtorialist (startorialist.com) is a Tumblr-based blog that curates the proliferation of "Astro Fashion" - clothing accessories, decor, and more - with the goal of celebrating the beauty of the universe and highlighting the science behind the astronomical imagery. Since launching in January 2013, we have written over 1000 unique posts about everything from handmade and boutique products to mass-produced commercial items to haute couture seen on fashion runways. Each blog post features images and descriptions of the products with links to the original astronomical images or other relevant science content. We also feature profiles of astronomers, scientists, students, and communicators wearing, making, or decorating with "startorial" items. Our most popular posts accumulate hundreds or thousands of notes (faves or reblogs, in Tumblr parlance), and one post has nearly 150,000 notes. In our second year, we have grown from 1,000 to just shy of 20,000 followers on Tumblr, with an increased audience on Twitter, Instagram, and Facebook as well. We present preliminary results from a reader survey conducted September-October 2015 in collaboration with science communication researcher Dr. Paige Jarreau. The survey provides data on reader habits, motivations, attitudes, and demographics in order to assess how STARtorialist has influenced our readers' views on science, scientists, and the scientific community as a whole.
Despite frequently expressed reservations concerning its fundamental theoretical weakness, distributed leadership (DL) has grown to become the preferred leadership concept and has acquired taken-for-granted status. This article suggests that the dominance of DL can best be understood as a fashion or fad rather than as a rational choice. It…
Chen, Ming; Allebach, Jan
On-line fashion communities in which participants post photos of personal fashion items for viewing and possible purchase by others are becoming increasingly popular. Generally, these photos are taken by individuals who have no training in photography with low-cost mobile phone cameras. It is desired that photos of the products have high aesthetic quality to improve the users' online shopping experience. In this work, we design features for aesthetic quality inference in the context of online fashion shopping. Psychophysical experiments are conducted to construct a database of the photos' aesthetic evaluation, specifically for photos from an online fashion shopping website. We then extract both generic low-level features and high-level image attributes to represent the aesthetic quality. Using a support vector machine framework, we train a predictor of the aesthetic quality rating based on the feature vector. Experimental results validate the efficacy of our approach. Metadata such as the product type are also used to further improve the result.
MacDonald, Nora M.; Bigelow, Susan
In today's high technology, globally interdependent world, we must educate students to achieve to their highest capacity. The goal of this middle school fashion design project was to develop a classroom environment that promoted teaching for creativity. We examined the following questions. What was the students' perception of their (a)…
Florida State Univ., Tallahassee. Center for Instructional Development and Services.
This vocational program guide is intended to assist in the organization, operation, and evaluation of a program in fashion marketing in school districts, area vocational centers, and community colleges. The following topics are covered: program content (job duties of wholesale and retail clothing salespersons and curriculum framework and student…
Brew, Charl Anne
Art instructors are ever mindful of the need to introduce and encourage the possibilities of careers in the art field. The longer the author has been teaching art, the more aware she has become of the many wonderful art-related jobs and careers that exist. Fashion design, marketing and retail are three areas in which many students--male and…
ABSTRAK Merebaknya fashion karnaval di Nusantara dan berbagai genre lain dipicu oleh keberadaan Jember Fashion Carnaval. Michael Bahtin menyebut fenomena ini sebagai intertekstualitas yaitu ketergantungan satu teks dengan teks lain, sehingga keberadaan sebuah teks selalu dipengaruhi oleh teks sebelumnya. Teori intertekstualitas ini mengubah pandangan orang terhadap proses pengutipan karya dan melahirkan kritik terhadap karya yang mengedepankan otentisitas dan orisinalitas. Penelitian menggunakan pendekatan kualitatif interpretastif dengan menganalisis bagaimana perkembangan Jember Fashion Carnaval mempengaruhi merebaknya karnaval seru- pa di kota lain dan bangkitnya respon positif genre-genre seni untuk berkiprah bersama. Kon- sistensinya telah menjadi magnit bagi fotografer, media, pameran fotografi, lukisan, kuliner dan industri kreatif lokal. Terbentuknya Asosiasi Karnaval Indonesia, tergabungnya tujuh propinsi dalam Wonderful Archipelago Carnival Indonesia dan Jember menjadi tuan rumah etalase karna- val Nusantara. Hasil penelitian ini menginterpretasikan bahwa proses interteks-tualitas kostum pada karnaval merupakan perspektif yang positif karena kemampuannya mengaktifkan genre seni sejenis maupun berbeda sehingga menciptakan medan karnaval yang kondusif. Kata kunci: Intertekstualitas, Jember Fashion Carnaval, Medan Karnaval
Ünal, R.A.; Moors, A.
Changes in the sartorial practices of Dutch-Turkish women who wear Muslim headscarves may be summarized as a shift from sober, religiously inspired forms of dress towards colorful, more fashionable styles. A focus on the materiality of headscarves indicates, however, that the relation between Islam,
Papahristou, E.; Kyratsis, P.; Priniotakis, G.; Bilalis, N.
The internet of things (IoT) is transforming everyday physical objects that surround us into an ecosystem of information that is rapidly changing the way we live our lives. Any physical product can be more intelligent, more interactive, more trackable and more valuable by being connected via IoT. All industries, including Fashion, are expecting that the IoT will make real quantifiable impact that can be quickly translated into positive ROI for the business, and equally a positive return for consumers. In our research on the integration of 3D virtual prototype in the Textile and Clothing sector, IoT was of particular interest. The research was contacted using a combination of primary and secondary sources. First hand interviews to explore the impact of recent technology applications in the design and production of fashion products and the areas which are going to benefit most. The research has included several questions to interviewees who are executives in fashion companies or industry entrepreneurs with the aim to investigate what IoT represents and attempts to understand how IoT can support Fashion Design, Development and procurement as well as manufacturing.
Sørensen, Lene Tolstrup
of this paper is to present and discuss the challenges of developing event applications with a strong involvement of users. The concepts and characteristics of the Living Lab approach has been used to develop an event application for the Copenhagen Fashion Festival 2010. As part of the development process...
In Nigeria, fashion and photography have become powerful forces in the ... grown every year since the first photography studios opened in. Lagos in the 1880s. ..... Uchendu was determined to take as many as "fifty pictures and deliver them to ...
Full Text Available Contemporary studies of fashion interpret articles of clothing as text, through which a specific cultural identity is constructed and expressed. As identities are momentarily realized through the performative act of identifying with a real or ideal subject, fashion has a special significance in every visual creation of a subject as the identity of a given role. In accordance with this, the dressing of the body is viewed as one of the available means of gender identification, as well as a way to confirm the subject through the performing of the assigned role of man and woman. Seeing as the performance of a certain role, in this specific case, entails the existence of the subject as event (of a textual role, the sphere of clothing fashion is in this paper primarily connected to the sphere of representing the subject as member of a gender category. Clothing is viewed as one in a slew of instruments of gender naturalization, in the sense of the power which clothing has for upholding, performing and displaying the stability of gender norms. Hence, this paper will consider always current issues of the existence of established boundaries of male and female fashion, male and female clothing ornaments and colors, as well as socially acceptable male and female forms of clothing.
Jacobs, D.; Lentjes, E.; Ruiten, E.; Marques, L.; Richard, G.
The Arnhem Fashion District, which started in 2005, offers workspaces, shops and places to live for fashion designers. More than fifty fashion designers and other creative entrepreneurs have located their business in this neighbourhood. For a few years most of the fashion chain has been present:
We develop a model in which novelty and conformity motivate fashion behavior. Fashion cycles occur if conformity is not too high. The duration of fashion cycles depends on individual-specific conformity, novelty, and the number of available styles. The use of individual-specific novelty and conformity allows us to also identify fashion leaders.
古賀, 令子; 濱田, 勝宏; 謝, 黎; 田中, 里尚; 北方, 晴子
This research aims to clarify the state of the relationship between fashion and media to grasp the present state of the fashion environment and fashion media. For this, we brought up the following five issues, and held a symposium titled “Think about Fashion and Media”on September 26, 2009.The five issues are:(1) How has the fashion system changed since 21st century?(2) How has the role of fashion media changed in the fashion system?(3) The globalization of the web network and the subject and...
Full Text Available As an alternative to the prevalent fast fashion model, slow fashion has emerged as a way of enhancing sustainability in the fashion industry, yet how slow fashion can enhance profitability is still largely unknown. Based on a customer value creation framework, this study empirically tested a structural model that specified the slow fashion attributes that contribute to creating perceived customer value, which subsequently increases a consumer’s intention to buy and pay a price premium for slow fashion products. An analysis of 221 U.S. consumer data revealed that delivering exclusive product value is significantly critical in creating customer value for slow fashion, and customer value, in turn, positively affects consumers’ purchase intentions. Further analysis also revealed that different slow fashion attributes distinctively affect customer value. This provides potential strategies on which slow fashion businesses can focus to secure an economically sustainable business model, thereby continuously improving environmental and social sustainability with the slow fashion ideal.
李俊; 吴海燕; 张渭源
Based on the requirements of applying information technology to reform the traditional fashion industry,the method of fashion merchandising management in some medium-sized enterprises is discussed. By analyzing the actual domestic fashion industry environment, ideal model that could quickly respond to the market's changes is proposed which includes naming brand, target-market position, circumstances analysis and popularity anticipation, brand concept and style setting, fashion design, fashion category component, and sale strategy.
Technical Skill, Industry Knowledge and Experience, and Interpersonal Skill Competencies for Fashion Design Careers: A Comparison of Perspectives between Fashion Industry Professionals and Fashion Educators
In updating fashion and apparel related design programs, many educators are striving to address the perspective of the fashion industry to obtain the career-specific skill and knowledge requirements sought by employers when hiring college or university graduates. Identifying such competencies from the view of fashion industry professionals as well…
Full Text Available The concept of diet in the classical Greece must be understood not only as a style of feeding, but rather as the way of life and the individual’s reality in its global complexity. Since ancient times things have changed radically and the specific concept of diet has left the world of medicine to become a sort of mass entertainment. This phenomenon, along with the idolatry of chasing a perfect body and permanent youth, has lead to many lifestyles focused on the triad food-beauty-youth thus emerging progressive psychophysical alterations, sometimes severe and in other cases almost an argument of comedy. This work aims to create the necessary awareness in order to get that medicine returns to patients and pathologies and fashions and consumption do not become pseudo-disorders for which many "remedies" are also designed. Many times after these lifestyles there are only fashion and consumerism.
Mary Mumford, theatre sister at the Princes of Wales Hospital, Bridgend, was asked to speak in a short debate at an NATN branch meeting, supporting the motion that 'swab racks are an old fashioned idea'. Although she did not like swab racks she had not attempted thus far to do anything about them. In the event, she actually lost the debate--not in principle but because she could offer no effective alternative method of checking swabs. Having been given the incentive, a trial is now being conducted in her hospital similar to that described by Paul Wicker. This is the case presented by Mary Mumford supporting the following motion ... 'that swab racks are an old fashioned idea, which cause more potential problems due to exposure of blood than is proven to be safe in today's theatre environment'.
This essay considers the role of artefacts in the historical study of dress and fashion and suggests the existence of three different approaches. The field of history of dress and costume has a long tradition going back to the nineteenth century. It adopts the methodologies of art history and considers artefacts as central to the analysis of different periods and themes. In the last few decades the emergence of fashion studies has been interpreted as a distancing from artefacts. It is here cl...
Checco, Alessandro; Demartini, Gianluca; Loeser, Alexander; Arous, Ines; Khayati, Mourad; Dantone, Matthias; Koopmanschap, Richard; Stalinov, Svetlin; Kersten, Martin; Zhang, Ying
A core business in the fashion industry is the understanding and prediction of customer needs and trends. Search engines and social networks are at the same time a fundamental bridge and a costly middleman between the customer's purchase intention and the retailer. To better exploit Europe's distinctive characteristics e.g., multiple languages, fashion and cultural differences, it is pivotal to reduce retailers' dependence to search engines. This goal can be achieved by harnessing various dat...
Štemberger, M.; Pavko-Čuden, A.
The presented research relates the basic elements of the art theory with the concept of style and fashion design. The objective of the research was to determine how style is manifested in knitting in different periods of fashion seasons. The collections of three designers were compared: Missoni, Issey Miyake and Sonia Rykiel, in four different seasons in three different years. The basic artistic elements used in the presented research were: point, line, light-dark and colour together with syntactic rules. A combination of different elements and syntactic rules refers to different artistic languages, which have their own artistic grammar, i.e. a different style. All three investigated fashion designers used knitting in their collections as a significant element which defined their style. Different knitting technologies as well as different yarns made of synthetic or natural fibres in all colour spectra significantly influence the surface of a knitted fabric. Even when the technology is the same, the use of different materials, structures, colours, etc. creates various unique surfaces. The method used in the presented research was a style matrix which is developed from the axiomatic system. Only the part dealing with the language of fine arts and the pictorial speech - the style of a certain designer and a certain work of art/knitted fabric was used. After the selected three designers were examined through all the periods, it was concluded that each designer can be characterised by his own style. Despite the influencing fashion trends, all the compared designers still retained their own style, their own techniques, their own inspirations.
Lehnert, Gertrud; Mentges, Gabriele
Tagungsbericht zu 'Fusion Culture: Fashion beyond Orientalism and Occidentalism', Universität Potsdam, 5. bis 7. November 2009 Die von Gabriele Mentges (Dortmund) und Gertrud Lehnert (Potsdam) veranstaltete und von der Volkswagen Stiftung geförderte Tagung befasste sich mit dem Thema 'Orientalismus und Mode' zum einen unter historischen Aspekten, zum anderen unter gegenwärtigen Bedingungen, in denen von 'Orientalismus' kaum noch die Rede sein kann. Denn längst haben wechselseitige Bezüge ...
Lopez, C; Fan, Y
Zara is one of the world’s most successful fashion retailers operating in 59 countries. However, there is little research about the firm in English as the majority of publications have been written in Spanish. This paper seeks to address this gap in the literature by examining the internationalisation process of Zara. This study adopts an in-depth case approach based on extensive secondary research. Literature published in both English and Spanish has been reviewed, including c...
Madsen, Dag Øivind
International audience; SWOT analysis has over a period spanning several decades enjoyed considerable popularity in the business community. In this paper management fashion theory is used as a theoretical lens to understand the history and evolution of SWOT as a management idea. The analysis shows that SWOT's evolution pattern diverges in several respects from that of other comparable management ideas. The findings from the analysis have several implications for research on SWOT and, more gen...
Morais, C.; Carvalho, C.; Broega, A. C.
The proposal methodology tends to close the “product fashion cycle”, defending the existence of a good waste management policy, so that the clothing are thrown away can be reused or recycled to come back again as material to produce yarn, fabric or knit. Subsequently these materials should be include in the production of sustainable apparel, whose design methodologies should be concerned in providing more durable garments and being possible to transform according to the occasion and the user....
Bartoli, Nicla; Nielsen, Amalie
This paper is meant to investigate the topic of Ethical Fashion implemented in Danish Fashion Premium Brands Companies. In order to have an almost complete scientific paper, the group decided to formulate the folowing problem formulation “What are the consequences for Danish Premium Brand Companies to incorporate Ethical Fashion in their company structure?” With three main research question: The first one is focusing on how Ethical Fashion is defined in the Danish fashion industry, in order t...
Kaiser, S B; Chandler, J L
A self-administered questionnaire including questions related to fashion alienation, frequency of use of mass media for fashion information, and demographics was completed by 209 "50-plus" aged consumers in Northern California. Fashion alienation was measured using ten separate statements related to 1) degree of identification with fashion symbols in the media and 2) feelings of social and economic estrangement from fashion. Two of the statements produced significant regression models. In both statements, age was positively related to fashion alienation, and there was an inverse relationship between frequency of use of media for fashion information and fashion alienation. The data provide implications for a conceptual distinction between information and meaning processing with regard to fashion.
R. Narasimhan (Krishtel eMaging) 1461 1996 Oct 15 13:05:22
Department of Materials Science and Metallurgy, Cambridge University,. Pembroke ... ready and able to pounce on new fashions in research. .... but it is always a good idea to apply the brakes of moderate scepticism when a fashion diverges.
takes on national significance, in terms of staging events and displays, and engaging with cultural references outside the field of fashion. This article explores how such place-making abilities structure the polycentric world of fashion, taking the United Nations Security Council as a model......Fashion production has been split between a globalized clothing industry, which tends towards extreme centralization, and localized designer fashion sectors, acting as intermediaries between international suppliers and national events, media, and public. Under these conditions, designer fashion...... for the interaction between first- and second-tier fashion cities. The article analyzes the rhetoric of new fashion centers as a traveling discourse that detaches fashion design from the concerns of textile and clothing industries and links it with those of cultural institutions and governments. It also examines how...
Full Text Available Brands ofen use celebrities to get impact. Celebrity endorsement has become a marketing communication strategy used to build a congruence between brand image and consumers. Objectives. Research attempts to analyse celebrity endorser-product congruency and to measure the effectiveness of celebrity endorsement compared with a non-celebrity endorsement (fashion models. Prior Work. Research conducted to date have reached topics as: the effectiveness of celebrity endorsement; celebrity endorsers and purchase intention, added-value of the endorsement; positive or negative effects of celebrity endorsement, congruence between product/brand and endorser, consumer association with the endorser, attractiveness, credibility and trust in celebrities. Approach. A marketing experiment was used in order to mesure the impactul of endorser type and endorser-product match on Aad, Ab, and Pi. Results. Research has confirmed that attractive endorsers fit clothing products, whether they are celebrities or models. Also, the more consumer likes advertising, the more likely it creates a favorable attitude towards the brand. Results suggest ads using celebrities increase the likelihood of consumers to buy an endorsed product. Value. Study shows what celebrities are considered credible and perceived fit to promote classical suit. A fashion brand can select a celebrity for advertising campaign, due to it’s influence on consumers’ purchase intention.
Full Text Available A large number of prior empirical research and case studies used qualitative methodology to discuss the fashion brand dilution resulting from consumer base extension from the target group(s to the nontarget groups and its impacts. From a different perspective, this paper establishes a dynamic brand dilution and performance model, demonstrating how dynamic changes of sales volumes involving the two consumer groups affect the degree of brand dilution and the performance of the brand. We incorporate the factor “brand purity” to the model as a quantitative measure of brand dilution level that affects firm annual revenue and profit change comprehensively in iteration. Our model suggests that fashion brands, especially luxury brands, can be easily diluted under the pressure of firm growth, and the brands suffer the significant negative impact on their revenues and profit. While increasing sales volume can aggravate the negative consequences, brand purity can be increased through limiting the consumer base to the target group only.
Boydell, C. E.
The exhibition focused on ready-to-wear fashion in the post-war period. It was original in that it linked the design, production, retail, distribution and consumption of these popular fashions. This develops Entwistle’s view that "a sociological account of fashion and dress must acknowledge the connections between production and consumption, considering the relationship between different agencies, institutions, individuals and practices" ('The Fashioned Body', Polity Press 2000 p.3) Metho...
This dissertation is about the making of the Indian fashion designer and highlights how the birth of the industry has fashioned new subjects and subjectivities. It traces constitutive shifts and tensions in the fashion industry over the last three decades, including the rise of bridal wear or couture, the appropriation of craft and resistances to it, and the return of ready-to-wear production via e-commerce. I argue that the professional identity of the fashion designer was crafted in opposit...
This paper determines the relevance of industrial property rights to the development of innovations in the fashion industry. It examines how the level of innovation can remain high despite a free exchange of intellectual property – fashion designs – within the industry: The importance of innovation for a fashion business in the industry is determined by the choice of it’s competitive strategy. That is, either to be an innovator who creates fashion innovations or to be an imitator who...
Wu, Meng-Shan Sharon; Chaney, Isabella; Chen, Cheng-Hao Steven; Nguyen, Bang; Melewar, T. C.
Purpose - Against the background of increasing consumption of luxury fashion brands by young female consumers in Asian countries, this paper offers insights into the consumption motives and purchasing behaviour of that market segment in Taiwan.\\ud \\ud Design/methodology/approach - Analysis of data collected using face-to-face semi-structured interviews with twenty-three 18-32 year-old fashion-conscious females was completed and new empirical insights are offered.\\ud \\ud Findings - The study f...
Li Xuequn; Chen Shi; Li Xinbang
The authors analysed the production and treatment of low- and intermediate-level radwastes (L/ILW) in China. Some problems and situation in this field are introduced. Over the past ten years, preliminary efforts have been made by CNNC (China National Nuclear Corporation) in policy, law and rules, developing program, management system, siting, engineering techniques, and safety assessment for radwaste disposal. The investment of the earlier stage work of L/ILW disposal site construction is estimated, the program and assumption to disposal site construction of the L/ILW are reviewed
Thompson, Anne L.
Fabulous Fashions is a program established in 2000 for fifth through eighth graders attending high-need school, M.S. 127, in the Castle Hill section of the Bronx. Within the program, fashion design is offered three times a week; students who enroll are required to attend all three sessions. Students may participate in as many seasons of fashion as…
Henny Jordaan; Hans-Heinrich Glöckner; Reinder Pieters; Stef Weijers
More than before fashion is sold through e-channels and this implies an increase in e-logistics. Shop selling stagnates. But as fashion sales handled through e-channels is becoming a substantial part of the business, succesfully managing such a channel is a challange for almost all fashion
The purpose of this book is to move beyond the association of fashion with the mere representation of identity. Fashion should be understood as much more than that. The book argues that we should view fashion through a heterogeneous prism, one that enables us to think critically about the
Merlo, Elisabetta; Perugini, Mario
The purpose of this paper is to shed light on the contribution that history can give to marketing strategies aimed at revitalizing fashion brands. It focuses on the revival strategy implemented in recent years by the Pucci fashion company.
Full Text Available The Efforts to Increase Export Drives of Fashion Industy in the Globalisation Era. The fashion industry is inseparable from the development of fashion, cultural element/national culture, and the influence of fashion in many aspects of human life. Thus, fashion industry is a positive business opportunities in globalization era. Fashion industry involves various parties such as the resource of fabric thread, fabric manufacturers, designer, producers to distributors, starts from small business to large business, and also involves a lot of workers with various skills and talents. In order to support fashion industry producers having positive export drives, it is necessary to to pay attention to many components, such as production, supplier, and the final products that are distributed to the retailers. These components are also related to the quality of human resources, material resources, fashion forecasting, and the multimedia of fashion industry. : Industri fashion, tidak terlepas dari perkembangan busana, unsur budaya/ kultur suatu bangsa, serta pengaruh busana dalam berbagai aspek kehidupan manusia. Dengan demikian industri fashion merupakan peluang bisnis yang positif di era globalisasi. Industri fashion melibatkan berbagai pihak mulai dari asal serat, pembuatan kain, desainer, produsen sampai distributor, mulai dari bisnis kecil sampai bisnis besar, juga melibatkan banyak pekerja dengan berbagai keahlian dan bakat. Upaya produsen industri fashion agar memiliki export drive yang positif, perlu memperhatikan komponen produksi, komponen supplier, produk akhir yang didistribusikan pada retailer. Komponen-komponen tersebut terkait dengan kualitas: sumber daya manusia, sumber daya material, fashion forecasting, dan multimedia industri fashion.
Fashion Inst. of Tech., New York, NY.
The career exploration guide is the first of a series of five interrelated program resource guides encompassing the various dimensions of the fashion industry. The series is intended to provide an information source for establishing, expanding, or evaluating secondary and adult vocational instructional programs related to the broad field of…
Full Text Available This paper analyzes the re-emergence of sewing sweatshops both in major and peripheral big cities around the world, in order to understand the changes that took place in the fashion industry over the past four decades and their consequences on the workers. Two case studies were carried out to this aim: one in the city of Buenos Aires and another one in the province of Prato [Italy]. The results of the investigation show that this sector was a pioneer in the Neoliberal industrial re-organization processes. In both case studies, the closing down of factories and the massive use of informal urban workshop subcontracting resulted in significant asset concentration as well as in a marked deterioration of labor conditions. In fact, human trafficking and the slavery of thousands of immigrant workers are vital to this industry's operation
Carlos J. Lebrón Cajigas
Full Text Available Vilma Martínez is an entrepreneur from Puerto Rico that started a sewing school that kept growing and expanding into related courses and businesses. Those businesses reach several industries such as education, fashion, and entertainment. Besides having to deal with the management of the marketing, operations, human resources, and other functions, she also had to face problems that are particular to family businesses and to new businesses. Even though the economic environment in PR and the industry environment were very difficult, there were also social and demographic factors that helped her sewing school segment to experience significant growth. The growth of the sewing school was also due to the advertising, pricing, and other marketing activities implemented and that kept evolving over time from constant experimentation. Many strategic issues are presented, including relocation, larger facilities, accreditation, and the hiring of non-family employees.
Mendes, F. D.; Dos Santos, M. C. L.
This article, derived from an ongoing research, presents the possibilities of reducing the inappropriate disposal of textile residues generated by the fabric cutting sector of the Fashion Garment Manufacturing (FGM). The raw material used is very varied, resulting in a large number of productive processes. FGM produces clothing that has as its main features a short life cycle, a high rate of diversification and differentiation, and small production batches, resulting in few similar parts. The production process is differentiated according to the characteristics of the fabric and the look of the garment. During the production process, at least 10% of textile waste is generated during the cutting process, which is constantly discarded in an inadequate way. The Cyclability theory is researched aiming at the possibility of reduction in the generation of waste and elimination of inappropriate disposal. The case study presents the action research carried out in three small Brazilian companies to study the applicability of the Cyclability theory.
Full Text Available The traditional Romanian costume such as the entire popular art (architecture, woodcarvins, pottery etc. was born and lasted in our country since ancient times. Closely related to human existence, the traditional costume reflected over the years as reflected nowadays, the mentality and artistic conception of the people. Today the traditional Romanian costume became an inspiration source to the wholesale fashion production industry designers, both Romanian and international. Although the contemporary designers are working in accordance with a vision, using a wide area of styles, methods and current technology, they usually return to traditional techniques and ethnic folklore motifs, which converts and resize them, integrating them in their contemporary space. Adrian Oianu is a very appreciated Romanian designer who launched two collections inspired by his native’s country traditional costumes: “Suflecata pan’ la brau” (“Turned up ‘til the belt” and “Bucurie” (“Joy”. Dorin Negrau had as inspiration for his “Lost” collection the traditional costume from the Bihor region. Yves Saint Laurent had a collection inspired by the Romanian traditional flax blouses called “La blouse roumaine”. The paper presents the traditional Romanian values throw fashion collections. The research activity will create innovative concepts to support the garment industry in order to develop their own brand and to bring the design activities in Romania at an international level. The research was conducted during the initial stage of a project, financed through national founds, consisting in a documentary study on ethnographic characteristics of the popular costume from different regions of the country.
Kessler, R C; Aguilar-Gaxiola, S; Alonso, J; Bromet, E J; Gureje, O; Karam, E G; Koenen, K C; Lee, S; Liu, H; Pennell, B-E; Petukhova, M V; Sampson, N A; Shahly, V; Stein, D J; Atwoli, L; Borges, G; Bunting, B; de Girolamo, G; Gluzman, S F; Haro, J M; Hinkov, H; Kawakami, N; Kovess-Masfety, V; Navarro-Mateu, F; Posada-Villa, J; Scott, K M; Shalev, A Y; Ten Have, M; Torres, Y; Viana, M C; Zaslavsky, A M
Although earlier trauma exposure is known to predict posttraumatic stress disorder (PTSD) after subsequent traumas, it is unclear whether this association is limited to cases where the earlier trauma led to PTSD. Resolution of this uncertainty has important implications for research on pretrauma vulnerability to PTSD. We examined this issue in the World Health Organization (WHO) World Mental Health (WMH) Surveys with 34 676 respondents who reported lifetime trauma exposure. One lifetime trauma was selected randomly for each respondent. DSM-IV (Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders, 4th Edition) PTSD due to that trauma was assessed. We reported in a previous paper that four earlier traumas involving interpersonal violence significantly predicted PTSD after subsequent random traumas (odds ratio (OR)=1.3-2.5). We also assessed 14 lifetime DSM-IV mood, anxiety, disruptive behavior and substance disorders before random traumas. We show in the current report that only prior anxiety disorders significantly predicted PTSD in a multivariate model (OR=1.5-4.3) and that these disorders interacted significantly with three of the earlier traumas (witnessing atrocities, physical violence victimization and rape). History of witnessing atrocities significantly predicted PTSD after subsequent random traumas only among respondents with prior PTSD (OR=5.6). Histories of physical violence victimization (OR=1.5) and rape after age 17 years (OR=17.6) significantly predicted only among respondents with no history of prior anxiety disorders. Although only preliminary due to reliance on retrospective reports, these results suggest that history of anxiety disorders and history of a limited number of earlier traumas might usefully be targeted in future prospective studies as distinct foci of research on individual differences in vulnerability to PTSD after subsequent traumas.Molecular Psychiatry advance online publication, 19 September 2017; doi:10.1038/mp.2017.194.
Dec 13, 2010 ... the production of new seedless wampee cultivars in recent years were operated. ... increase burliness rate in hybridization. In order to earlier ... methods is greatly limited due to a long juvenile phase of ... Plant materials .... This fragment may be linked ... reduce high temperature which affected pollen germi-.
Moran, Lauren V; Masters, Grace A; Pingali, Samira; Cohen, Bruce M; Liebson, Elizabeth; Rajarethinam, R P; Ongur, Dost
A childhood history of attention deficit hyperactivity disorder (ADHD) is common in psychotic disorders, yet prescription stimulants may interact adversely with the physiology of these disorders. Specifically, exposure to stimulants leads to long-term increases in dopamine release. We therefore hypothesized that individuals with psychotic disorders previously exposed to prescription stimulants will have an earlier onset of psychosis. Age of onset of psychosis (AOP) was compared in individuals with and without prior exposure to prescription stimulants while controlling for potential confounding factors. In a sample of 205 patients recruited from an inpatient psychiatric unit, 40% (n = 82) reported use of stimulants prior to the onset of psychosis. Most participants were prescribed stimulants during childhood or adolescence for a diagnosis of ADHD. AOP was significantly earlier in those exposed to stimulants (20.5 vs. 24.6 years stimulants vs. no stimulants, p drugs of abuse, and family history of a first-degree relative with psychosis, the association between stimulant exposure and earlier AOP remained significant. There was a significant gender × stimulant interaction with a greater reduction in AOP for females, whereas the smaller effect of stimulant use on AOP in males did not reach statistical significance. In conclusion, individuals with psychotic disorders exposed to prescription stimulants had an earlier onset of psychosis, and this relationship did not appear to be mediated by IQ or cannabis. Copyright © 2015 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
Jennifer Pontius; Richard Hallett
Forested ecosystems are threatened by invasive pests, pathogens, and unusual climatic events brought about by climate change. Earlier detection of incipient forest health problems and a quantitatively rigorous assessment method is increasingly important. Here, we describe a method that is adaptable across tree species and stress agents and practical for use in the...
Preliminary results on correlations between pions, in the exclusive reaction K/sup +/p to K/sup +/p2 pi /sup +/2 pi /sup -/ at 8.25 GeV/c are presented. The results obtained by a new method due to Kopylov and Podgeretsky (1973) are compared with space angle and p/sub T/ plane correlations. Similar investigations in pp annihilation are suggested. (10 refs).
Moran, Lauren V.; Masters, Grace A.; Pingali, Samira; Cohen, Bruce M.; Liebson, Elizabeth; Rajarethinam, R.P.; Ongur, Dost
A childhood history of attention deficit hyperactivity disorder (ADHD) is common in psychotic disorders, yet prescription stimulants may interact adversely with the physiology of these disorders. Specifically, exposure to stimulants leads to long-term increases in dopamine release. We therefore hypothesized that individuals with psychotic disorders previously exposed to prescription stimulants will have an earlier onset of psychosis. Age of onset of psychosis (AOP) was compared in individuals...
Ilan, Ophir; Eliashar, Ron; Hirshoren, Nir; Hamdan, Kasem; Gross, Menachem
Turban pin aspiration syndrome is a new clinical entity afflicting young Islamic girls wearing a turban.The goal of this study was to present our experience in diagnosis and treatment of this new entity, define its clinical and epidemiologic features, and shed a new light on the role of fashion in the increased incidence. A retrospective study in a tertiary university hospital. Review of clinical parameters and epidemiologic features of 26 patients diagnosed with turban pin aspiration syndrome admitted to the Hadassah-Hebrew University Hospitals in Jerusalem from 1990 to 2010. All patients were Muslim females with an average age of 16 years. In all cases, the history was positive for accidental aspiration. Most of the pins were located in the trachea (42%). In 20 cases, the pins were extracted by rigid bronchoscopy without major complications. Fluoroscopy-assisted rigid bronchoscopy was used successfully in three cases. In one case, the object was self-ejected by coughing before the bronchoscopy, and two patients were referred to the chest unit for thoracotomy. Clinicians should be aware of this distinct form of foreign body aspiration, its method of diagnosis, and extraction techniques. A cultural investigation showed a difference in the turban-fastening technique of young girls as compared with their mothers. Removal by rigid bronchoscopy is a safe method with a high success rate and should be considered as the preferred extraction method of choice. Copyright © 2012 The American Laryngological, Rhinological, and Otological Society, Inc.
With this divergence between publicity and market behaviour being echoing across the globe, wine producers need to be able to determine whether a new category represents an opportunity to consider a strategic change in business direction. Although publicity has been shown to effect a change in wine consumer behaviour, the conditions surrounding a new wine category's growth from fad, trend and fashion are analysed for the purpose of strategic management. This study extends findings from historical narratives through the use of empirical evidence from both European and New World wine markets. The evidence is contrasted with a contemporary phenomenological experience expressed by influencers within both of those markets, as a means to illustrate the disparity between the contemporary appeal of popular publicity, and the challenges faced by wine producers having to respond to the market reality. This study illustrates that implementing strategic decisions on whether to engage in a new trend, depends on the innovative category being consistent with existing strategy and able to impact the market without reliance on external publicity.
Full Text Available This paper aims to analyze the internationalization process from 1996 to 2010 of a company that develops software for fashion. The theoretical foundations of the article include the theories of internationalization with special attention to the Nordic School of International Business, the approach of the networks, as well as research on specific software firms, born globals and international entrepreneurship. The survey used the technique of case study, qualitative, exploratory and descriptive. Data were collected from primary sources such as semi-structured interviews and questionnaires, and secondary sources. The data from the interviews and documents were repeatedly reviewed, coded and analyzed for their content and meaning, to identify the categories under consideration. Among the factors seen fleeing theoretical approaches, are cited the heels of the steps outlined by them and not exclusive preference for countries with lower psychic distance. It was also relevant to the international orientation of the entrepreneurs, whose social networks encompassed international actors who sometimes influenced the process, confirming the approach of the networks.
Maksoed, W. H.
For disproportionation of H2 O2 , we also considers an electrokinetic mechanism they appear.So far, the more efficient micro/nanoscale motors are derived from biological systems . Besides, a control experimenting using 3 stripped Au/Pt/Au rods with catalyzed the composition of H2 O2 , at a similar rate-Walter F Paxton: ``Catalytic Nanomotors,'' JACS, 2004. We also intended to accomaplishes the HCCI quotes from Marcin Frackowiak, dissertation, 2009, just in several characters seems as twin of IGNITION through IceCube document project held since Oct 11, 2001 ever concludes as ``saw none'' so they can be follows the ITER/IFMIF. Refers to S29286 file in UI retrieved: ``magnetic quantum-dot cellular automata which is nonvolatile & lower power consist of nanomagnets. Since they are magnetically coupled, logic can be performed by switching, on the other hand in a DOMINO fashion..'' [A. Klenm: ``Fabrication of Magnetic Tunnel Junction-based Spintronic Devices..,'' convocation, Aug 11-14, 2010]. Acknowledgments devotes to BB Mandelbrot: ``Fractal Geometry: What is it & What Does it do?''.
Almond, K; Riches, C
The research for this article was initiated by the discovery of the archive of international fashion designer, Gerald McCann, hidden in a garage in Fleetwood, Lancashire, UK. The contents of the archive revealed a treasure trove of press cuttings photographs, fashion drawings and interviews as well as designs and costings from a once well-known designer, whose significance to the global fashion industry is sparsely documented and largely forgotten. This article reveals the history of the desi...
Garcia, Noa; Vogiatzis, George
This work proposes a system for retrieving clothing and fashion products from video content. Although films and television are the perfect showcase for fashion brands to promote their products, spectators are not always aware of where to buy the latest trends they see on screen. Here, a framework for breaking the gap between fashion products shown on videos and users is presented. By relating clothing items and video frames in an indexed database and performing frame retrieval with temporal a...
Butigan, Ružica; Grilec Kaurić, Alica; Ujević, Darko
The success of high fashion designers is not only in a specificity of the products but also in specific and very well executed marketing strategy. Emphasis is placed on the design of very specific marketing program and marketing strategies that must concider all the characteristics of the high fashion market. Therefore, a scientific research problem is defined as follows: although the market of high fashion at first glance does not imply a completely different marketing approach than other fa...
Billeson, Kristin; Klasander, Karolina
This study investigates previous research on four barriers that hinder consumers from buying sustainable fashion; style/design, price, convenience and information/knowledge. Using a mixed methods approach, a survey has been performed on members of the general public in London as well as interviews with two professionals in the fashion industry with knowledge on sustainability in fashion. Looking through the lens of the attitude-behaviour gap the consumers’ attitude and behaviour towards susta...
Pham, Minh-Ha T
As part of a feminist commitment to collaboration, this article appears as a companion essay to Mimi Thi Nguyen's "The Biopower of Beauty: Humanitarian Imperialisms and Global Feminisms" and offers a point of departure for thinking about fashion and beauty as processes that produce subjects recruited to, and aligned with, the national interests of the United States in the war on terror. The Muslim woman in the veil and her imagined opposite in the fashionably modern - and implicitly Western - woman become convenient metaphors for articulating geopolitical contests of power as a human rights concern, as a rescue mission, as a beautifying mandate. This article examines newer iterations of this opposition, in the wake of September 11, 2001, in order to demonstrate the critical resonance of a biopolitics on fashion and beauty. In "The Right to Fashion in the Age of Terrorism," the author examines the relationship between the U.S. war on terror, targeting persons whose sartorial choices are described as terrorist-looking and oppressive, and the right-to-fashion discourse, which promotes fashion's mass-market diffusion as a civil liberty. Looking at these multiple invocations of the democratization of fashion, this article argues that the right-to-fashion discourse colludes with the war on terror by fabricating a neoliberal consumer-citizen who is also a couture-citizen and whose right to fashion reasserts U.S.exceptionalism, which is secured by private property, social mobility, and individualism.
Full Text Available Sales forecasting is crucial for many retail operations. It is especially critical for the fashion retailing service industry in which product demand is very volatile and product’s life cycle is short. This paper conducts a comprehensive literature review and selects a set of papers in the literature on fashion retail sales forecasting. The advantages and the drawbacks of different kinds of analytical methods for fashion retail sales forecasting are examined. The evolution of the respective forecasting methods over the past 15 years is revealed. Issues related to real-world applications of the fashion retail sales forecasting models and important future research directions are discussed.
Some myths and unsupported beliefs about asthma are very popular and enjoy general public acceptance and fairly strong support on the Internet. Onions for cough; dairy products avoidance for asthma; and some other popular myths are reviewed, along with some other medical and mixed (popular and medical) myths comparing their popular and scientific support. Classifying medical statements as realities or unsupported beliefs is a hard and serious work nowadays addressed by Evidence Based Medicine methods, which are not devoid of the influence of medical fashion: the medical community is more prone to accept fashionable statements compared to non-fashionable or old-fashioned statements.
van der Laan, E.C.
In today’s highly visual and globalized Western culture, fashion magazines are central, transnational institutions that shape and disseminate ideas on how we should look, dress and be successful. Within scholarly and popular debates, fashion images are criticized for giving the wrong examples, for conveying ideals of beauty that are too white, too thin, too objectified and too idealized. But despite the controversy that surrounds them, studies of what fashion images actually look like, how th...
Fan, Bihang; Guo, Li; Li, Ning; Chen, Jin; Lin, Henry; Zhang, Xiaoyang; Shen, Miaogen; Rao, Yuhan; Wang, Cong; Ma, Lei
The observed decline of spring dust storms in Northeast Asia since the 1950s has been attributed to surface wind stilling. However, spring vegetation growth could also restrain dust storms through accumulating aboveground biomass and increasing surface roughness. To investigate the impacts of vegetation spring growth on dust storms, we examine the relationships between recorded spring dust storm outbreaks and satellite-derived vegetation green-up date in Inner Mongolia, Northern China from 1982 to 2008. We find a significant dampening effect of advanced vegetation growth on spring dust storms (r = 0.49, p = 0.01), with a one-day earlier green-up date corresponding to a decrease in annual spring dust storm outbreaks by 3%. Moreover, the higher correlation (r = 0.55, p storm outbreak ratio (the ratio of dust storm outbreaks to times of strong wind events) indicates that such effect is independent of changes in surface wind. Spatially, a negative correlation is detected between areas with advanced green-up dates and regional annual spring dust storms (r = -0.49, p = 0.01). This new insight is valuable for understanding dust storms dynamics under the changing climate. Our findings suggest that dust storms in Inner Mongolia will be further mitigated by the projected earlier vegetation green-up in the warming world.
Li, Yuncheng; Cao, LiangLiang; Zhu, Jiang; Luo, Jiebo
Composing fashion outfits involves deep understanding of fashion standards while incorporating creativity for choosing multiple fashion items (e.g., Jewelry, Bag, Pants, Dress). In fashion websites, popular or high-quality fashion outfits are usually designed by fashion experts and followed by large audiences. In this paper, we propose a machine learning system to compose fashion outfits automatically. The core of the proposed automatic composition system is to score fashion outfit candidates...
A. Pratt (Andy); P. Borrione (Paola); M. Lavanga (Mariangela); M. D' Ovidio (Marianna)
textabstractThe aim of this research is to sketch out the parameters of the fashion industry. Whilst, without doubt fashion is a means of personal and cultural expression, it is also an industry. The industrial and economic aspects have been relatively under-researched. We highlight the fact that
Rita van der Veen; Stef Weijers; Henny Jordaan; Hans-Heinrich Glöckner
This paper presents the findings of a research project on the competencies which supply chain managers in the fashion industry need to rely on, in order to perform successfully in their job. In this research project 21 supply chain managers in the fashion industry in the Netherlands have been
Stef Weijers; Henny Jordaan; Rita van der Veen; Hans-Heinrich Glöckner
This paper presents the findings of a research project on the competencies which supply chain managers in the fashion industry need to rely on, in order to perform successfully in their job. In this research project 21 supply chain managers in the fashion industry in the Netherlands have been
This learning activity packet is designed to help students to acquire a competency: how to use an understanding of fashion history in preparation for a career in the fashion industry. The unit consists of the competency, three objectives, suggested learning activity, transparency masters, and a pretest/posttest with answer keys. The activity is a…
Kiesmuller, G.P.; Minner, S.
Demand for fashion products is usually highly uncertain. Often, there is only one possibility for procurement before the selling season. In order to improve the traditional newsvendor-type overage-underage trade-off we study a network of two expected profit maximizing retailers selling a fashion
Suhaily, Lily; Soelasih, Yasintha
The purpose of this research is to analyse impulsive buying behavior of fashion product based on age differences. 260 questionnaires were distributed to respondents at Plaza Semanggi, Sudirman with random sampling method. The resut shows that no differences between young adults and maturity adults age toward impulsive buying behavior of fashion product.
Gerber, Tara; Saiki, Diana
The purpose of this study was to examine career success perceived by professionals in the fashion industry. Two sets of open-ended interviews were conducted with 33 fashion industry professionals. The interviews were analyzed for success themes using a grounded approach methodology. External definitions of success mentioned were salary,…
Texas Tech Univ., Lubbock. Home Economics Instructional Materials Center.
This guidebook is designed for use in teaching students enrolled in preemployment laboratory education (PELE) clothing/fashion design programs. The first of two major sections includes an overview for teachers on planning, conducting, and evaluating a PELE clothing/fashion design program. Specific topics discussed in section 1 include (1)…
van der Laan, E.; Kuipers, G.
This study proposes a ‘bottom-up’, micro-sociological analysis of cultural production. Drawing on detailed observations of fashion photo shoots and interviews with fashion professionals in the Netherlands, we analyse how the division between ‘high’ (editorial) and ‘low’ (commercial) culture is
Full Text Available Fashion phenomenon has always attracted attention, but this topic has never been as popular as it is now. Fashion industry permeates all the aspects of human society and it portrays the time we live in the best way. Globalization of fashion and internalisation of doing business in fashion industry have conditioned moving all the important business functions to the countries with noticeably cheaper price of all the resources which has influenced reduction of the cost of fashion products. Textile industry in Serbia, once successful branch of the processing industry, is faced with foreign competition which has succeeded in positioning in the domestic market and attracting wide range of consumers. The research concerning consumers' preferences about fashion brands by determining which factors influence consumers the most while shopping will present the current situation in fashion industry of Serbia. By taking all brand characteristics into account (quality, price, design, commodity, prestige, we can determine the differences in evaluating the factors which apply to choosing garments by examinees regarding their gender, age and market they buy the products on. The case study showing how the consumers from Serbia and abroad see Mona fashion brand will be presented in the research.
This book discusses in detail the concepts of recycling and upcycling and their implications for the textiles and fashion sector. In addition to the theoretical concepts, the book also presents various options for recycling and upcycling in textiles and fashion. Although recycling is a much-developed and widely used concept, upcycling is also gaining popularity in the sector.
Langkjær, Michael Alexander
Book review of Fashion - Philosophy for Everyone: Thinking with Style, edited by Jessica Wolfendale and Jeanette Kennett (Oxford: Wiley-Blackwell, 2011).......Book review of Fashion - Philosophy for Everyone: Thinking with Style, edited by Jessica Wolfendale and Jeanette Kennett (Oxford: Wiley-Blackwell, 2011)....
The purpose of this study is to develop a model of production management unit to enhance entrepreneurship attitude of vocational school students from fashion department. This study concerns in developing students' entrepreneurship attitude in management which includes planning, organizing, applying and evaluation. The study uses Research and Development (R & D) approach with three main steps; preliminary study, development step, and product validation. Research subject was vocational school teachers from fashion department in Semarang, Salatiga and Demak. This study yields a development model of production management unit that could enhance vocational school students' entrepreneurship attitude in fashion department. The result shows that research subjects have understood about of production management unit in Vocational School (SMK).
Full Text Available Sustainability management in global fashion operations is an area of growing concern. This can be seen by the number of research articles and industrial reports published. To establish a further debate, this study pursues two objectives. Firstly, it provides a systematic literature review pertaining to environmental and social sustainability management in fashion operations by encompassing 38 research articles indexed in Scopus from 2006 to 2016. Secondly, it presents a classification framework in which sustainability practices are categorized according to a three-dimensional concurrent engineering framework by focusing on product, process and supply chain levels. Results address that the breakdown of environmental and social sustainability practices identified in earlier research is not homogenous. For instance, some critical social aspects such as human rights are not widely covered in production processes. Similarly, serious environmental aspects such as biodiversity are not entirely focused on at the chain level. Last, this study concludes with a framework illustrating strategic priorities to be taken to advance sustainability in fashion operations.
Girard, D E; Carlton, B E
There are important measurements of alcoholism that are poorly understood by physicians. Professional attitudes toward alcoholic patients are often counterproductive. Americans spend about $30 billion on alcohol a year and most adults drink alcohol. Even though traditional criteria allow for recognition of the disease, diagnosis is often made late in the natural course, when intervention fails. Alcoholism is a major health problem and accounts for 10 percent of total health care costs. Still, this country's 10 million adult alcoholics come from a pool of heavy drinkers with well defined demographic characteristics. These social, cultural and familial traits, along with subtle signs of addiction, allow for earlier diagnosis. Although these factors alone do not establish a diagnosis of alcoholism, they should alert a physician that significant disease may be imminent. Focus must be directed to these aspects of alcoholism if containment of the problem is expected.
Margarita I. Pavlushina
Full Text Available The beginning of the 21st century is characterized not only by important historical events in the world, but also by the changes in value norms and priorities. Television, being the most mass and accessible means of information, reflects these changes directly or indirectly. One of the significant trends of modern media is the development of an entertainment segment, which is present on television in the form of special formats and a specialized content. It is necessary to create special conditions for the permanent demonstration of their events, symbols and samples for the development of fashion, as the reflection of public and cultural content and as the means of search for a person's identity. Television has such natural features that provide fashion industry a unique platform for the development of a global fashionable space and intercivilizational communication. Fashion-TV complements the television picture of the world, influencing the spread of fashion trends and the development of a certain culture of behavior and lifestyle among TV viewers. Fashion-TV, as the combination of specialized Fashion channels and TV projects dedicated to fashion and human beauty on Russian social, political and entertainment channels, is primarily the carrier of information about modern fashion trends in clothing that influences the change of a person social-cultural image. This article the hypothesis of modern fashion TV has a blurred target audience with pronounced gender characteristics and a developed motivation. The article presents the results of the study conducted on the basis of the Kazan Federal University for two years.
Full Text Available BACKGROUND: A canonical proposition states that, in mature brain, neurons responsive to sensory stimuli are tuned to specific properties installed shortly after birth. It is amply demonstrated that that neurons in adult visual cortex of cats are orientation-selective that is they respond with the highest firing rates to preferred oriented stimuli. METHODOLOGY/PRINCIPAL FINDINGS: In anesthetized cats, prepared in a conventional fashion for single cell recordings, the present investigation shows that presenting a stimulus uninterruptedly at a non-preferred orientation for twelve minutes induces changes in orientation preference. Across all conditions orientation tuning curves were investigated using a trial by trial method. Contrary to what has been previously reported with shorter adaptation duration, twelve minutes of adaptation induces mostly attractive shifts, i.e. toward the adapter. After a recovery period allowing neurons to restore their original orientation tuning curves, we carried out a second adaptation which produced three major results: (1 more frequent attractive shifts, (2 an increase of their magnitude, and (3 an additional enhancement of responses at the new or acquired preferred orientation. Additionally, we also show that the direction of shifts depends on the duration of the adaptation: shorter adaptation in most cases produces repulsive shifts, whereas adaptation exceeding nine minutes results in attractive shifts, in the same unit. Consequently, shifts in preferred orientation depend on the duration of adaptation. CONCLUSION/SIGNIFICANCE: The supplementary response improvements indicate that neurons in area 17 keep a memory trace of the previous stimulus properties, thereby upgrading cellular performance. It also highlights the dynamic nature of basic neuronal properties in adult cortex since repeated adaptations modified both the orientation tuning selectivity and the response strength to the preferred orientation. These
van der Laan, E.C.
In today’s highly visual and globalized Western culture, fashion magazines are central, transnational institutions that shape and disseminate ideas on how we should look, dress and be successful. Within scholarly and popular debates, fashion images are criticized for giving the wrong examples, for
Madsen, Dag Øivind; Stenheim, Tonny
Big Data (BD) is currently one of the most talked about management ideas in the business community. Many call it the “buzzword of the day.” In books and media articles, BD has been referred to as a “revolution” and “new era.” There is lots of optimistic and upbeat rhetoric surrounding BD. This has led some to question whether BD is a hyped-up management fashion. In this paper, the BD phenomenon is viewed through the lens of management fashion theory. Management fashion provides an analytical ...
Costa, Ana Mafalda Ricardo Morgado
L1, L81, M31 The Fashion Industry has been changing among the years, and fashion companies are changing the way they do business. They are focusing each day more on the consumers, and what they are looking for at that moment. Fast Fashion concept is gaining ground in the industry because now it is more important to always follow the latest trends and produce according to that, than to have just two collections per year for a higher price. Now, consumers are always looking...
This article focuses on the construction of power via the body in the context of the Italian political scene of the last two decades. From a semiotic and fashion-theory perspective,the article interprets local peculiarities through the lens of more general issues concerning the way pop, mass and media culture have been transforming our relation to power, as well as to the high symbolic body of ‘the chief’. Clothing signs, fashion mechanisms and figures connected to fashion imagery have played...
Full Text Available The late detection of the kick (the entrance of underground fluids into oil wells leads to oil well blowouts. It causes human life loss and imposes a great deal of expenses on the petroleum industry. This paper presents the application of adaptive neuro-fuzzy inference system designed for an earlier kick detection using measurable drilling parameters. In order to generate the initial fuzzy inference system, subtractive clustering is utilized. The training set contains 50 data samples and there are 362 data samples for testing the proposed method. Also, ANFIS structure is examined at different radii (the parameter of subtractive clustering. Different conformations are tested to get the earliest detection and the lowest false alarms while facing kick. Eventually, ANFIS verifies the danger exposure depth of about 28.6 meters before the depth that the kick was sensed by crew. Such an assessment gives the rig crew enough time to prepare for the danger and stop the operation before being exposed to high pressure zones.
Soeur, L; Desmoineaux, P; Devillier, A; Pujol, N; Beaufils, P
When managed conservatively, lateral epicondylitis often subsides only after considerable time, during which social and occupational activities are severely disrupted. If conservative management fails, a recently introduced option is arthroscopic release of the extensor carpi radialis brevis (ECRB). The primary objective of this study was to compare clinical outcomes of this procedure according to preoperative symptom duration. Earlier arthroscopic release is associated with better functional outcomes. Consecutive patients with arthroscopically managed lateral epicondylitis were included in a retrospective study. Arthroscopy was performed only after at least 6 months of conservative treatment. The criteria to evaluate the clinical outcomes were the Nirschl and Quick-DASH scores, muscle strength, time to pain relief, and percentage of functional recovery. Thirty-five patients were evaluated at a median of 4 years (range: 1-12 years) after surgery. Mean preoperative symptom duration was 18 months (range: 6-106 months) with a mean sick leave duration of 2.3±4.9 months. Postoperatively, mean time to recovery was 37.5 days (range: 7 days to 5 years) and mean sick leave duration was 2.4±2.4 months. The mean Quick-DASH score was 15.9±19.1. The Nirschl score improved significantly, from 26.4±7.9 to 66.3±16.3. The initial muscle strength deficit was 10.1±33.2% and muscle strength at last follow-up was increased by 4.3±30.3%. Symptom duration showed no correlations with any of the clinical outcome measures. Outcomes after arthroscopic release were not associated with symptom duration in this study. Nevertheless, the good clinical outcomes support treatment with arthroscopic release after only 6 months of conservative management. IV, retrospective study. Copyright © 2016. Published by Elsevier Masson SAS.
Pestel, Gunther J; Fukui, Kimiko; Kimberger, Oliver; Hager, Helmut; Kurz, Andrea; Hiltebrand, Luzius B
Untreated hypovolemia results in impaired outcome. This study tests our hypothesis whether general hemodynamic parameters detect acute blood loss earlier than monitoring parameters of regional tissue beds. Eight pigs (23-25 kg) were anesthetized and mechanically ventilated. A pulmonary artery catheter and an arterial catheter were inserted. Tissue oxygen tension was measured with Clark-type electrodes in the jejunal and colonic wall, in the liver, and subcutaneously. Jejunal microcirculation was assessed by laser Doppler flowmetry (LDF). Intravascular volume was optimized using difference in pulse pressure (dPP) to keep dPP below 13%. Sixty minutes after preparation, baseline measurements were taken. At first, 5% of total blood volume was withdrawn, followed by another 5% increment, and then in 10% increments until death. After withdrawal of 5% of estimated blood volume, dPP increased from 6.1% +/- 3.0% to 20.8% +/- 2.7% (P < 0.01). Mean arterial pressure (MAP), mean pulmonary artery pressure (PAP) and pulmonary artery occlusion pressure (PAOP) decreased with a blood loss of 10% (P < 0.01). Cardiac output (CO) changed after a blood loss of 20% (P < 0.05). Tissue oxygen tension in central organs, and blood flow in the jejunal muscularis decreased (P < 0.05) after a blood loss of 20%. Tissue oxygen tension in the skin, and jejunal mucosa blood flow decreased (P < 0.05) after a blood loss of 40% and 50%, respectively. In this hemorrhagic pig model systemic hemodynamic parameters were more sensitive to detect acute hypovolemia than tissue oxygen tension measurements or jejunal LDF measurements. Acute blood loss was detected first by dPP. Copyright (c) 2010 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
Clarke, Jean; Holt, Robin
Little attention has been given to the ethics of fashion consumption despite the often trenchant critique of the fashion industry for intensifying cycles of production, consumption, and disposal and encouraging in consumers a superficial sense of identity and the good life through apparel....... In this article, we suggest that although relationships with clothes are not often explicitly stated as “being ethical,” the capacity to be ethical can pervade the buying and wearing of clothes. We focus on the fashion designer, environmental campaigner, and critic of consumption Vivienne Westwood and those who...... consume her clothing. Using a single case study approach (combining interview data, participant observation, internal and external documents, and literature), we examine the ethical potential of consuming fashion. We show how ethics in consumption is a critical engagement with how products such as clothes...
A model of fashion on networks is studied. This model consists of two groups of agents that are located on a network and have opposite viewpoints towards being fashionable: behaving consistently with either the majority or the minority of adjacent agents. Checking whether the fashion game has a pure Nash equilibrium (pure NE) is a non-deterministic polynomial complete problem. Using replica-symmetric mean field theory, the largest proportion of satisfied agents and the region where at least one pure NE should exist are determined for several types of random networks. Furthermore, a quantitive analysis of the asynchronous best response dynamics yields the phase diagram of existence and detectability of pure NE in the fashion game on some random networks. (paper: classical statistical mechanics, equilibrium and non-equilibrium).
Journal of Science and Technology (Ghana) ... Strategies suggested for the improvement of the Ghanaian fashion business include; formation ... current and more efficient machinery and raw material to improve and expand their businesses, ...
Klipp "Fashion Designer Contest - SuperNoova (Estonie) - Femme Pret ̉ Porter - Automne-Hiver 2002/2003" jõudis FTV ekraanile. Disaineritest on esile tõstetud võitjad: Jaanus Orgusaar vanemas ja Leelo nooremas kategoorias
Hovmøller, Harald; Tambo, Torben
Retailing, and particularly fashion retailing, is changing into a much more technology driven business model using omni-channel retailing approaches. Also analytical and data-driven marketing is on the rise. However, there has not been paid a lot of attention to the underlying and underpinning...... datastructures, the characteristics for fashion retailing, the relationship between static and dynamic data, and the governance of this. This paper is analysing and discussing the data dimension of fashion retailing with focus on data-model development, master data management and the impact of this on business...... development in the form of increased operational effectiveness, better adaptation the omni-channel environment and improved alignment between the business strategy and the supporting data. The paper presents a case study of a major European fashion retail and wholesale company that is in the process...
Full Text Available In this essay I show the main models used to explain the fashion system. I try to describe how these models have always show fashion as a relationship between the fashion system and the general population. To do this, firstly I make a historical tour around the most significant developments of fashion. And secondly I collect the scientific theories that have tried to explain this phenomenon. I conclude that there are three basic theories today which try to explain this relationship: the trickle-down model, the model of subcultural resistance and the virulence or contagion model. All of them are insufficient because they are not made explicit and they present serious analytical shortcomings.
Manuel Viñas Limonchi
Full Text Available The evolution of the fashion industry in the area of creativity depends mainly on the stylistic contribution made by the fashion designer responsible for the conception and manufacture of the final product, as well as of its dramatized show and/or media exhibition. This same product finds suitable mechanisms for its artistic and influential expansion in the technological area of communication. This article addresses a review of resources, mainly of an iconographic nature, that will indeed favour the placement of this creative aspect within the domain of the transmedia narrative. This is an analysis validated at the advertising level through the art direction of two fashion designers, Lagerfeld and Gaultier, who suggest in their proposals a migration of content to different media as a complement to the natural performance that unfolds on the fashion catwalk.
Näitus "Uus Põhjamaade moeillustratsioon" Rotermanni kvartalis 18. sept.-ni. Osalejad Eestist, Soomest ja Rootsist loetletud. Näituse kujundaja Tuuli Aule. Väljapaneku loovjuhi Toomas Volkmanni selgitus. Tallinn Fashion Week'i põhiprogrammist
Moeüritus Fashion is Back in Tallinn (FIBIT) Viru Keskuses Tallinnas. Gala-etendusel "Sinine, Must ja Valge" esitletud Anu Samarüütel-Longi, Tanel Veenre ja Arne Niidu moekollektsioonidest. Lisaks värvilised fotod
as a growing integration of the world's econ- omy. To Walters ... facturers produce and distribute their economic wealth in ..... Regular organization of Fashion Trade Fairs, shows and. Exhibition at .... vulnerable local industries to collapse. The.
Bachelors thesis is focused on fashion marketing and its application on company Krispol fashion s.r.o., which engaged in manufacturing of handmade bow-ties. The objective of the bachelors thesis is a survey of how the companys marketing activities are percepted by the current customers and how these customers participate in such activities. The main marketing activities are participation in fashion markets and presenting on companys Facebook page. The thesis consists of a theoretical and a pr...
Jagadeesh, Vignesh; Piramuthu, Robinson; Bhardwaj, Anurag; Di, Wei; Sundaresan, Neel
We describe a completely automated large scale visual recommendation system for fashion. Our focus is to efficiently harness the availability of large quantities of online fashion images and their rich meta-data. Specifically, we propose four data driven models in the form of Complementary Nearest Neighbor Consensus, Gaussian Mixture Models, Texture Agnostic Retrieval and Markov Chain LDA for solving this problem. We analyze relative merits and pitfalls of these algorithms through extensive e...
Abstrak: Analisis Sikap Konsumen Terhadap Produk Fashion Lokal dan Impor. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk menganalisis sikap konsumen terhadap produk fashion lokal dan impor yang akan berpengaruh terhadap keputusan konsumsi. Sampel yang akan digunakan dalam penelitian ini adalah 1.000 mahasiswa dari 10 perguruan tinggi swasta terbesar di Surabaya. Pengambilan data dilakukan dengan metode kuesioner. Hasil pengujian statistik menunjukkan bahwa sebagian besar mahasiswa di Surabaya merasa bangga d...
Hovmøller, Harald; Tambo, Torben
Retailing, and particularly fashion retailing, is changing into a much more technology driven business model using omni-channel retailing approaches. Also analytical and data-driven marketing is on the rise. However, there has not been paid a lot of attention to the underlying and underpinning datastructures, the characteristics for fashion retailing, the relationship between static and dynamic data, and the governance of this. This paper is analysing and discussing the data dimension of fash...
BAYAZIT, Zeynep; PANAYIRCI, Uğur Cevdet
Contemporary social and technological changes inevitably affect consumer behaviour. Today’s customer is savvy, have no time and hard to persuade. This new relationship between customers and brands has a deeper impact on competitive industries such as fashion. Fashion brands are eager to adopt shocking themes for their marketing communication efforts in order to emotionally affect and challenge consumers. Aim of this study is to study with a critical perspective the advertisement efforts of fa...
Hernández García, Ángel
Fashion brands are among the earliest adopters of social media networks. Fashion companies manage social media applications and integrate them into their global marketing strategies in an attempt to shift from transactional to relationship-based approaches. Nevertheless, decisions on social media marketing efforts often rely on intuition and trial and error rather than strategic thinking, which can potentially lead to a disconnection between the brands and their audience. This talk explores t...
Alexandra Mocenco; Sabina Olaru; Georgeta Popescu
Globally there is mobility market and a manufacturers orientation to innovative products of small series or personalized. Adaptability and compliance with these fashion trends subordinate to client requirements is the key to developing big consumer brands known worldwide. Product design and development based extensive knowledge in fashion trends are extremely important capabilities for companies in the garment industry. Aligning economic agents to flexibility, mobility and speed of change in ...
Fabio De Felice
on the Balanced Scorecard (BSC and the Analytic Network Process (ANP, called ‘MAB’ – Multi-criteria Assessment Balanced Scorecard. Firstly, key performance indicators (KPIs are evaluated in order to assess the performance level of a typical fashion industry. The development of an index system and methods is aimed to form a set of useful tools for policy-makers to facilitate the transformation of an industrial development mode and support the performance of the fashion industry.
The paper explores the difference between retro trends and historical reflection in fashion as cultural production. An attempt at a taxonomy of retro is attempted as is a discussion of the role of innovation in within a framework of apparent repetition.......The paper explores the difference between retro trends and historical reflection in fashion as cultural production. An attempt at a taxonomy of retro is attempted as is a discussion of the role of innovation in within a framework of apparent repetition....
This thesis aims to improve the supply chain agility of a case company that is engaged in the design, development and worldwide marketing and selling of fashion accessories and design services. This thesis explores agility in context of supply chain management and in fashion industry where the typical challenges are that demand is highly volatile and hard to predict, the number of products per sales season is large and products have a fairly short life-cycles. In this study, the research ...
Full Text Available The paper showcases a part of the collection of the first lady of SFRY, Jovanka Broz, captured in photographs taken between 1953 and 1980. The issue of the lack of primary sources is considered – the lack of objects and explicit attitudes of the first lady herself, with the goal of offering a methodological approach through which this deficiency could be overcome. The paper uses the method of chronological tracking of political events, trends in the world of fashion and events in the fashion industry, as well as statements by participants and witnesses of certain events. Through comparison of these three aspects, we indirectly arrive at a view of the relationship of Jovanka Broz to clothing and fashion, as well as to a view of the key influences of the first lady’s collection on the fashion choices of the political elite and the fashion industry of SFR Yugoslavia. Jovanka Broz’s public appearance changed over time, from a careful selection of photographs without personal comment, through the recording of statements on formal occasions, to giving interviews to chosen journalists on specific topics – these changes are noted in the paper. It can be concluded that the fashion choices of Jovanka Broz were, first and foremost, aligned with the protocols demanded by international diplomacy, as well as that Jovanka Broz herself approached this demands with the utmost diligence, as well as personal attitude.
Full Text Available Sustainability is significantly important for fashion business due to consumers’ increasing awareness of environment. When a fashion company aims to promote sustainability, the main linkage is to develop a sustainable supply chain. This paper contributes to current knowledge of sustainable supply chain in the textile and clothing industry. We first depict the structure of sustainable fashion supply chain including eco-material preparation, sustainable manufacturing, green distribution, green retailing, and ethical consumers based on the extant literature. We study the case of the Swedish fast fashion company, H&M, which has constructed its sustainable supply chain in developing eco-materials, providing safety training, monitoring sustainable manufacturing, reducing carbon emission in distribution, and promoting eco-fashion. Moreover, based on the secondary data and analysis, we learn the lessons of H&M’s sustainable fashion supply chain from the country perspective: (1 the H&M’s sourcing managers may be more likely to select suppliers in the countries with lower degrees of human wellbeing; (2 the H&M’s supply chain manager may set a higher level of inventory in a country with a higher human wellbeing; and (3 the H&M CEO may consider the degrees of human wellbeing and economic wellbeing, instead of environmental wellbeing when launching the online shopping channel in a specific country.
The tourism industry is viewed as one of the world’s most important industries that have emerged in global economy including Nigeria. The fashion industry is likewise a multi-billion dollar industry globally. In many parts of the world fashion tourists are growing in number. Acclaimed fashion capitals of the world like New York, Paris, and London have thrived in the fashion industry. Kenya, Amsterdam, South Africa, have also begun to look into the fashion industry for economic gain and Nigeri...
Bagdziunaite, Dalia; Ramsøy, Thomas Z.
Can subliminal brands affect preference? Here we show that subliminally presented fashion brands affect rating of fashion items. Individual brand preference demonstrates the positive bias for the direction and strength of fashion preference. Pupillometry data show the implicit emotional reactions...
This project focuses on exploring sustainable-oriented options for young people as they are the primary target group of an accelerating fashion industry. The fast fashion market has major problems along its globally organised supply chain regarding its social and environmental compatibility. The project is conducted within a greater urban area, using the city of Freiburg exemplarily. Pupils of the Staudinger Gesamtschule, the only comprehensive school in Freiburg, engage themselves exploratively in the perspective of sustainability within the fashion market and create a catalogue of measures for sustainable-oriented handling. The main focus of this research project is to evaluate sustainable-oriented course of actions by interviewing selected consumers and active participants as well as protagonists of the fashion market and textile research field. The empirical social research is conducted by using guidelines as an interviewing technique when contacting commercial and product enterprises as well as research institutes and welfare institutions. Explorations and interviews give pupils the opportunity to become familiar with the fields of work and its individual sustainability options within the fashion market. The project is promoted by the programme “Our Common Future” of the Robert Bosch Foundation, Germany.
Ursache, M.; Avădanei, M. L.; Ionesi, D. S.; Loghin, E.
The paper presents the objectives, the innovative aspects, the planned outputs and the current results of the project entitled “Education - Employment Partnership for VET in the fashion sector”. The project is co-financed by the European Commission under the Erasmus+ Programme, Key Action 2 - Strategic Partnerships in the Field of Education, Training, Youth and Sport. The project aims mainly the at developing a European teaching and training Toolkit for supporting the implementation of Work-Based Learning (WBL) in all stages of vocational education and training (VET) in the fashion sector. Moreover, the project will support the implementation of quality assurance mechanisms for WBL in VET in the fashion sector with a specific focus on feedback loops between iVET and cVET systems. The project consortium is composed by nine partners from four countries (Romania, Bulgaria, Italy and Netherlands) representing two iVET providers, a university a Chamber of Commerce, a Federation of SMEs connected with fashion industries, one research institution, one company in clothing and fashion sector, two consulting companies with experience in education and training policies. The actual research results presented in the paper are based on the survey oriented to the training needs and the impact and benefits of WBL implementation. The data were collected from educational organizations. Also, examples of good practices showing the different challenges and benefits of WBL implementation, were identified.
Haug, Anders; Borch Münster, Mia
is to identify the most important store design variables, organise these variables into categories, understand the design constraints between categories, and determine the most influential stakeholders. Design/methodology/approach: – Based on a discussion of existing literature, the paper defines a framework...... into categories, provides an understanding of constraints between categories of variables, and identifies the most influential stakeholders. The paper demonstrates that the fashion store design task can be understood through a system perspective, implying that the store design task becomes a matter of defining......Purpose: – Several frameworks of retail store environment variables exist, but as shown by this paper, they are not particularly well-suited for supporting fashion store design processes. Thus, in order to provide an improved understanding of fashion store design, the purpose of this paper...
Elsa C. Nell
Full Text Available Visual merchandising has been called the silent salesman and retailers will be wise to use this silent salesman to enhance their total offering. This makes the in-store environment the perfect tool for fashion retailers to create a competitive advantage that other retailers might not have. The main research objective of this study was to explore if visual merchandising displays can be utilised to create a competitive advantage in fashion retail stores. A secondary objective was to explore the effect that visual merchandising displays have on a fashion retailer’s retail image. Qualitative research was performed by means of focus groups and the respondents were selected by means of purposive sampling. Thereafter, the data was analysed using thematic analysis. The results indicated that visual merchandising displays not only influence store image by communicating product quality and store character, but that they also create a purchasing environment that encourages impulse buying.
Gardini, L; Sushko, I; Matsuyama, K
We consider a discrete-time version of the continuous-time fashion cycle model introduced in Matsuyama, 1992. Its dynamics are defined by a 2D discontinuous piecewise linear map depending on three parameters. In the parameter space of the map periodicity, regions associated with attracting cycles of different periods are organized in the period adding and period incrementing bifurcation structures. The boundaries of all the periodicity regions related to border collision bifurcations are obtained analytically in explicit form. We show the existence of several partially overlapping period incrementing structures, that is, a novelty for the considered class of maps. Moreover, we show that if the time-delay in the discrete time formulation of the model shrinks to zero, the number of period incrementing structures tends to infinity and the dynamics of the discrete time fashion cycle model converges to those of continuous-time fashion cycle model.
Inoue, Takuya; Misago, Noriyuki; Asami, Akihiko; Tokunaga, Osamu; Narisawa, Yutaka
We herein describe a case of myopericytoma that proliferated in an unusual fashion. Myopericytoma is described as a group of rare, benign, dermal or subcutaneous tumors that are characterized histologically by a striking, concentric, perivascular proliferation of spindle cells and showing apparent differentiation towards perivascular myoid cells. Myopericytoma forms a morphological continuum with myofibroma/myofibromatosis, glomus tumor and angioleiomyoma. The patient was a 64-year-old woman who demonstrated a recurrent ulcer on an atrophic plaque on her left shin. A histopathological examination of the plaque demonstrated that tumor cells proliferated in an anastomosing multinodular fashion along the vessels in the dermis and subcutaneous tissue. In those nodules, there were numerous, small, concentric proliferations of myoid-appearing spindle cells around small vascular lumina. The present case is an unusual example of myopericytoma, manifesting in a characteristic anastomosing, multinodular, infiltrating fashion. © 2015 Japanese Dermatological Association.
Paula de Holanda Mendes
Full Text Available OBJECTIVES: cigarette smoking has been the modifiable risk factor most consistently associated with earlier menopause. This preliminary study based on cross-sectional data aimed to analyze the association between smoking status and age of onset of menopause in a Brazilian population. METHODS: a cross-sectional study was carried out with 1,222 female employees of Rio de Janeiro university campuses aged over 35 years who were at risk of natural menopause. A Cox proportional hazards model was used to investigate the association between smoking status and age at the onset of menopause, adjusting for education, parity and alcohol consumption. RESULTS: current smokers showed a 56% increase in the risk of menopause, being 1.8 years younger at menopause onset compared with women who had never smoked. However, no differences were observed between former smokers and women who had never smoked. The adjusted median age at menopause was 49.5 years for current smokers and 51.3 years for women who had never smoked (p<0.05. CONCLUSIONS: the results suggest a deleterious but potentially reversible effect of smoking on the age of onset of menopause, which should receive greater attention in tobacco control efforts. Longitudinal analyses of this association will be carried out in the future in a follow-up study of this population.
Anna Rykavishnikova; Anna Evseeva
This article describes improved methods of 3D-printing technology is their advantage, as well as used in modern fashion-industry. 3D-press began with the image on a fabric, flags, banners, advertising signs, furniture upholstery design, souvenirs. Improved and most commonly used in the fashion industry 3D-printing technology is the selective laser sintering. 3D-press is also used in the production of not only clothing, but also footwear company Nike; glasses, rings and other accessories.
Monica Stella Angelina
Full Text Available Fashion can be seen from the side semoitikanya that denotation and connotation. Like the black color that has connotations mysterious, bold, independent, and stylish, yellow color that symbolizes joy and a sense of spirit. Tiger spotted pattern connotes bold. Clothes that show the shape of the body shape connotes the online, open-minded, and confident. Denotation and connotation of this it can be concluded that Ines presenting himself as someone who is brave, open, cheerful, and stylish. Fashion and clothing are included in it has a deeper function than as body armor and kesopan that as the way a person communicates where fashion clothing is non-verbal communication that is artifactual. It can be seen that one can judge others simply on appearances alone. Even generally someone will first see the appearance of others before making conversation. This conversation function to verify whether the accepted meaning when just looking at clothes only in accordance with the meaning of a conversation or when it is doing the opposite. Although a person can wear to present themselves as it is, but nonetheless in reality there is an element of performance in it. It is also likely to be experienced by Ines, where in addition wants to present himself, Ines also wants the fashion that he was wearing viewed and became the center of attention of the crowd. Fashion dapat dilihat secara semoitikanya yaitu dari sisi denotasi dan konotasinya. Seperti warna hitam yang memiliki konotasi misterius, berani, mandiri, dan stylish, warna kuning yang melambangkan keceriaan dan rasa semangat. Pattern totol harimau yang berkonotasi berani. Bentuk pakaian yang memperlihatkan bentuk tubuh berkonotasi daring, open-minded, dan percaya diri. Dari denotasi dan konotasi inilah dapat diambil kesimpulan bahwa Ines mempresentasikan dirinya sebagai seseorang yang berani, terbuka, ceria, dan stylish. Fashion dan pakaian yang termasuk di dalamnya memiliki fungsi yang lebih mendalam selain
The paper showcases a part of the collection of the first lady of SFRY, Jovanka Broz, captured in photographs taken between 1953 and 1980. The issue of the lack of primary sources is considered – the lack of objects and explicit attitudes of the first lady herself, with the goal of offering a methodological approach through which this deficiency could be overcome. The paper uses the method of chronological tracking of political events, trends in the world of fashion and events in the fashion ...
George, P M; Kuskowski, M; Schmidt, C
During the past 50 years recreational sun exposure has greatly increased in the United States. The purpose of this study was to examine the photoprotecion message of American fashion magazines and to identify recent trends. We evaluated models for tan, skin exposure, and other sun-related criteria in six leading fashion magazines between 1983 and 1993. We also recorded the number of sunscreen advertisements and sun awareness articles. We evaluated 3031 models. Adult models had darker tans and greater skin exposure than adolescents and children. Men had darker tans than women. We noted trends toward lighter tans, more women wearing hats, more sunscreen advertisements, and sun awareness articles. Many sunscreen advertisements glorified tanning. Their models had darker tans and more skin exposure, and fewer wore a hat than did nonadvertisement models. The fashion industry and especially sunsreen manufacturers promote excessive sun exposure. Although we found encouraging trends, gains were modest, especially in men's magazines.
Duml, Valeria; Perlacia, Anna Soler
The rise of collaborative consumption is a phenomenon that appeared in many industries, such as in space sharing (e.g. Airbnb), car sharing (e.g. Uber), video streaming (e.g. Netflix), and more recently also in the fashion industry. This has prompted fashion companies to innovate their business models and start changing the way of doing business (e.g. Rent the Runway, Tradesy, and Vestiaire Collective). Through a qualitative and exploratory study based on a sample of twenty-six companies, thi...
Dag Øivind Madsen
Full Text Available Despite mixed performance reviews and experiences, customer relationship management (CRM is among the most widely used and discussed management ideas by managers around the world. Commentators have noted that CRM has become “big business” and that there are many commercial actors selling CRM solutions. Despite such observations, little academic research has examined CRM using theories about management fads and fashions. Using management fashion theory as an analytical lens, this paper casts lights on the emergence and evolution of the market for CRM. The analysis of the supply side of CRM shows that many different actors have been involved, e.g. consulting firms, software vendors, industry analyst firms, and conference organizers. On the demand side, the interest in and usage of CRM remains relatively high despite mixed implementation experiences and failure cases. Based on the analysis, CRM has yet to enter into a downturn phase as is typical of transient management fashions. The longevity and staying power of the CRM fashion can partly be explained by institutional activities carried out by software firms, consultants, and IT industry analysts in training and certifying users, and in developing various complementary products and services. However, similar to what has been observed in relation to other management idea movements, a continuing high number of high-profile failure cases could “wear out” CRM. Therefore, the extent to which organizations are able to capitalize on CRM will likely shape the future trajectory of the CRM idea.
Shi, Jiwei Jenny; Chen, Yudong; Gifford, Elena Kate; Jin, Hui
Purpose: The purpose of this paper is to obtain a shared understanding of entrepreneurship education and to evaluate the effectiveness of employability and enterprise division in current fashion courses and amongst the students between a British and a Chinese university (UClan and SCAU). Design/methodology/approach: It is a three-stage…
This paper deals with the relevance of logistics competences in the fashion companies. It highlights that in companies not endowed with design competences and that manufacture garnments, the organization should be designed so as to leverage the logistics competences necessary to coordinate the supply chain
Chandra Ayu Proborini
Full Text Available Fenomena Jember Fashion Carnaval (JFC yang terjadi di Kabupaten Jember menjadi salah satu latar belakang dilakukannya penelitian ini. Jember yang mempunyai latar belakang masyarakat pandalungan, diantara masyarakatnya terbentuk sebuah karnaval fashion yang saat ini dikenal hingga dunia. Fenomena ini menjadi hal yang menarik, karena Jember tidak mempunyai riwayat sejarah fashion dan dikenal dengan kota santri. JFC yang diprakarsai oleh Dynand Fariz telah menunjukkan eksistensinya selama 14 tahun dan telah berhasil merubah Jember menjadi kota karnaval tingkat dunia. Selain itu JFC menjadi barometer karnaval fashion di Indonesia karena menginspirasi daerah lain untuk membuat karnaval yang serupa. JFC memamer- kan busana hasil kreativitas dari peserta yang mengikutinya. Peserta diberikan pelatihan untuk membuat dan memperagakan busana. Adanya proses pelatihan tersebut bertujuan untuk meningkatkan kreativitas peserta sehingga dapat membuat busana yang memiliki standart keindahan tersendiri. Proses tersebut secara tidak langsung membuat JFC mengalami proses komodifikasi, yaitu JFC bertransformasi menjadi event yang layak jual. Berdasarkan latar belakang yang telah diungkapkan, penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mengkaji tumbuh dan berkembangnya JFC diantara masyarakat Jember. Adapun secara spesifik mengkaji tentang latar belakang sosial budaya terbentuknya JFC sebagai industri pariwisata di Kabupaten Jember. Hasil pene- litian ini menunjukkan bahwa Jember memiliki ciri khas kultural serta modal yang mendukung tumbuh dan berkembangnya JFC di Jember, sehingga Jember dapat bersaing dengan daerah lain dalam ranah sektor pariwisata.Abstrak memuat uraian singkat mengenai masalah dan tujuan penelitian, metode yang diguna- kan, dan hasil penelitian. Tekanan penulisan abstrak terutama pada hasil penelitian.
M.S.S.E. Janssen (Susanne)
textabstractThis article aims to portray long-term developments and cross-national differences in the editorial prominence, artistic focus and international orientation of the coverage given to designer fashion by a central, intermediary agency within national, cultural fields: the journalism of art
This paper discusses the consumer values, attitudes and expectations regarding sustainable textiles and clothing. Consumers' interest in ethical issues is currently raising ethical questions in the mass market. What does a consumer expect from sustainable products in the apparel industry? and what is future eco-fashion?
Full Text Available This article investigates the relationship between the use of high heels, personality traits, and fashion consciousness of adult women. The theory of consumer behavior states that the personality of the consumer is a psychological factor that affects consumer decisions, as well as the attitude towards fashion. A survey with 83 women was conducted with two questionnaires. One questionnaire was about fashion consciousness and the use of high heels, and the other utilized the HumanGuide test. The analysis used univariate and multivariate techniques with the aid of SPSS software and Partial Least Squares. The results indicate that 60% of respondents feel pain when wearing high heels. Although designers indicate that a high heel height is above 8 cm, this research indicates that women consider a high heel from 5 cm. Only 27.3% of the responders over 50 years of age use high heels over 8.5 cm. The HumanGuide proved to be useful for Marketing in the sense that the respondents had no difficulty in answering the questions. The use of high heels is mostly explained by fashion consciousness. The most influential factor was the stability of personality, individuals described as conservative, traditional, economical, stable, cautious, steady, and serious. Thus, it appears that these respondents wear high heels because they are related to an elegant traditional dress.DOI: 10.5585/remark.v12i2.2563
This learning activity packet is designed to help students to acquire a competency, namely: how to use knowledge of careers in the fashion industry to gain information about their career choices. The unit consists of the competency, three objectives, suggested learning activities, transparency masters, handout materials for activities, and a…
This teacher's guide presents material for a unit on preparing for the retail fashion market. Content focuses on merchandise plans, computing open-to-buy, computing turnover, the components of a model stock plan, and criteria used when selecting a supplier. The guide contains 5 objectives, 6 group learning activities keyed to the objectives, 21…
This book comprehensively covers the topic of sustainability in the clothing and fashion sector. Sustainability is applied under different industrial sectors and there has to be a distinction in every industrial sector when it comes to sustainability in its application. Though the definition is common for sustainability, sustainability in the clothing sector has its unique objectives, principles, and limitations, which this book highlights.
A. I. Voronkova
Full Text Available The correlation between the content of the various options of fashion’s theory and research strategies of national sociological schools is identified and analyzed in the article. To those schools belong scientists from the USA, France and Germany: R. Barthes, H. Blumer, J. Baudrillard, P. Bourdieu, Th. Veblen, G. Simmel, W. Sombart. In particular, representatives of American sociology study fashion, especially in the context of a definition of psychological factors affecting both the individual (Th. Veblen, and so on Collective (G. Bloomer behavior of members of modern society. French researchers P. Bourdieu, R. Barthes and J. Baudrillard offer analyze fashion as a social phenomenon that puts the functioning of all spheres of personality and needs, especially solid theoretical interpretations. German sociologists examined fashion, especially as one of many forms of life (G. Simmel, in which the trend towards social cohesion combined with the trend towards individual differences that are beginning to engage in the conditions of formation and development of capitalist society (W. Sombart. It is substantiated that the historical development of each country affected the establishment of national sociological schools. This reflected not only in the formation of the leading areas of research, but also on specificity of the analysis of other social phenomena and processes, particularly in the study of the problem field of fashion.
Tallinn Fashion Week kestab 7. novembrini. Üks moenädala korraldajaid Jaanika Terasmaa, sellest, mida moenädal pakub tavainimesele ja kui oluline on selline ettevõtmine moeloojatele, moenädala eesmärgist
Studied 600 British consumers to determine the role of uncommitted purchasing power. Results indicate clothing consumption tends to be age oriented rather than class oriented. Fashion behavior among the young is determined by the excitement motive while older women are more economical. (JAC)
This teacher's guide presents material for a unit on attending the retail fashion market. Content focuses on previewing merchandise for purchase, factors involved in a major market trip, common terms used when ordering merchandise, and pricing strategies. The guide contains 4 objectives, 6 group learning activities keyed to the objectives, 12…
Kristensen, Tore; Ræbild, Ulla
. It is based on photographic material obtained in design studios during prototype development. The prototype is considered a core fashion design competence. Yet, companies increasingly cut costs by reducing or omitting prototype development. We intend to show, how the garment prototype acts as an important...
Andersen, Bjørn Schiermer
This article attempts to rehabilitate the concept of fetishism and to contribute to the debate on the social role of objects as well as to fashion theory. Extrapolating from Michel Serres’ theory of the quasi-objects, I distinguish two phenomenologies possessing almost opposite characteristics. T...... as a unique opportunity for studying the interchange between these two forms of fetishism and their respective phenomenologies. Finally, returning to Serres, I briefly consider the theoretical consequences of introducing the fashion object as a quasi-object.......This article attempts to rehabilitate the concept of fetishism and to contribute to the debate on the social role of objects as well as to fashion theory. Extrapolating from Michel Serres’ theory of the quasi-objects, I distinguish two phenomenologies possessing almost opposite characteristics....... These two phenomenologies are, so I argue, essential to quasi-object theory, yet largely ignored by Serres’ sociological interpreters. They correspond with the two different theories of fetishism found in Marx and Durkheim, respectively. In the second half of the article, I introduce the fashion object...
Giesel, Aline; de Mello Souza, Patrícia
This article is about thermal comfort in the wearable product. The research correlates fashion and architecture, in so far as it elects the brise soleil - an architectural element capable of regulating temperature and ventilation inside buildings - as a study referential, in trying to transpose and adapt its mechanisms to the wearable apparel.
A Chicago business school offers fashion merchandising as one of several business curriculums that combines on-the-job training and classroom instruction. Instruction is organized around the occupational cluster concept which requires training stations that provide a wide variety of learning experiences. (EA)
Clausen, Donald F.
The application of principles learned in a first course in chemistry to chemical problems of interest to home economics majors specializing in clothing and textiles or fashion merchandising is described. Concept transfer--teaching difficult concepts in terms of an everyday analogue--is also explained and relevant laboratory experiments are…
Full Text Available Rapid development of economy, and promote people to enter the era of knowledge economy. Under this background, the global economy especially the economic model of developed countries began to industrial restructuring and structural adjustment, and fashion creative industry economy is the product of the change. It embodies a nation in such aspects as culture, science and technology and creative design of soft power, to some extent, also represents a national industry's international competitiveness, is one of the most important industry in the development of leading industry. In the globalization trend of strengthening, today, the increasingly fierce competition in the international fashion scale and degree, the development of creative industry has become a measure of a country or a city comprehensive competitiveness of one of the important symbol. Therefore, many countries and regions all over the industry as a strategic industry and pillar industry to develop. Along with the rapid economic and social development as well as the consumer demand is rising, fashion creative industry gradually become Shanghai currently one of the most promising new industries. Especially in the face of the global economic downturn, China's transformation of the mode of development environment, development fashion creative industry will help speed up the Shanghai industrial structure transformation, beneficial to stimulate consumer demand, to improve the Shanghai international influence, for the Shanghai a new round of development, the construction of "four centers" and one of the breach of the international metropolis.
The following research offers a theoretical model for understanding sourcing decisions made by apparel retailers. The concept of fast fashion is explored by applying the model to Zara and Kohl’s. Factors influencing sourcing decisions are noted, and financial results of the retailers are compared. Finally, ideas for future research using the model are offered.
Smelik, A.M.; Toussaint, L.; Dongen, P. van
Using Pauline van Dongen’s ‘Wearable Solar’ project as a case study, the authors argue that materiality and embodiment should be taken into account both in the design of and the theoretical reflection on wearable technology. Bringing together a fashion designer and scholars from cultural studies,
Textile designs and fashion no doubt should be a part of the culture and economy of the development of a nation like Nigeria. There is no gainsaying the fact that all of the instruments of advancement of any nation, economy is predominant. The economic drive of any nation is majorly routed on generation of income from ...
S. Askegaard; D. Atik; S. Borghini
This study, focused on consumer desires and fashion, is based on interviews with both fashion consumers and designers. We found not only that the fashion systems constrains consumers as the meaning of fashion-related choices is continuously resignified, but also that consumers pose constraints on marketers, increasingly frustrated by the need to keep up with increasingly changing consumer tastes.
Veenstra, A.; Kuipers, G.M.M.
This article reviews consumption practices concerning vintage, a fashion style based on used or retro-style garments. Existing studies connect vintage with authenticity, nostalgia and identity. We explore how the vintage style deploys and comments on consumer culture, bypassing producers by wearing
Razvojni put modne ilustracije 20. i 21. veka – likovno predstavljanje mode (u slikarstvu, modnim tablama i modnim ilustracijama) / Development of Fashion Illustration during the 20th and 21st Century: Pictorial Representation of Fashion (in Painting, Fashion Plates and Fashion Illustrations)
The theme of this study is pictorial representation of costume and fashion in painting, fashion plates and fashion illustrations. Fashion illustration of the 20th century, specific in terms of freedom of interpretation that is given to the artists when representing fashion trends, has kept those elements of painting that are almost lost in contemporary art movements (for instance figuration). Through several specific examples in art history I will try to demonstrate the artist’s approach to t...
Galam, Serge; Vignes, Annick
We apply a physical-based model to describe the clothes fashion market. Every time a new outlet appears on the market, it can invade the market under certain specific conditions. Hence, the “old” outlet can be completely dominated and disappears. Each creator competes for a finite population of agents. Fashion phenomena are shown to result from a collective phenomenon produced by local individual imitation effects. We assume that, in each step of the imitation process, agents only interact with a subset rather than with the whole set of agents. People are actually more likely to influence (and be influenced by) their close “neighbors”. Accordingly, we discuss which strategy is best fitted for new producers when people are either simply organized into anonymous reference groups or when they are organized in social groups hierarchically ordered. While counterfeits are shown to reinforce the first strategy, creating social leaders can permit to avoid them.
Understanding market intelligence, trends, influences and personal approaches are essential tools for design students to develop their ideas in textiles and fashion. Identifying different personal approaches including, visual, process-led or concept by employing creative methodologies are key to developing a brief. A series of ideas or themes start to emerge and through the design process serve to underpin and inform an entire collection. These investigations ensure that the design collections are able to produce a diverse range of outcomes. Following key structures and coherent stages in the design process creates authentic collections in textiles and fashion. A range of undergraduate students presented their design portfolios (180) and the methodologies employed were mapped against success at module level, industry response and graduate employment.
Özlem Yaşar Uğurlu
Full Text Available Recently many scholars have paid attention to the concept of management fashions as a new field in organization studies. This research aims to emphasize the awareness of organizations about management fashions and how strongly organizations adopt new management approaches. As a qualitative research a content analysis was applied. Data was obtained from web sites of 79 companies based on the first 500 businesses according to the data of Istanbul Chamber of Industry (2011 and also were listed in Exchange Istanbul’s Industrial index (XUSIN. The findings have shown that strategic management, HRM and TQM are practiced more than organizational learning, innovation and ethics/social responsibility. Theoretical and practical implications are also discussed.
Borch Münster, Mia; Haug, Anders
of the literature and eight case studies of fashion store design projects. Findings: The paper shows that the influence of the constraint generators decreases during the design process except for supplier-generated constraints, which increase in the final stages of the design process. The paper argues...... is on fashion store design, the findings may, to some degree, be applicable to other types of store design projects. Practical implications: The understandings provided by this paper may help designers to deal proactively with constraints, reducing the use of resources to alter design proposals. Originality......Purpose: Retail design concepts are complex designs meeting functional and aesthetic demands from various constraint generators. However, the literature on this topic is sparse and offers only little support for store designers to deal with such challenges. To address this issue, the purpose...
Gwozdz, Wencke; Netter, Sarah; Bjartmarz, Thordis
Sustainable choices and behaviours are becoming ever more important in our daily lives in all consumption domains. This report focuses specifically on the consumption of textile fashion of young Swedish consumers. The purpose of this report is twofold: a) To describe current fashion consumption...... of young consumers and sustainability related attitudes and knowledge and b) to compare attitudes, knowledge and behaviour between consumers with different levels of awareness and commitment towards sustainability. The survey was conducted among 1,175 young Swedish consumers (aged 16-30) in 2012....... The average age of respondents is 23.5 years, with 48.7% females and 51.3% males. The report focuses on three consumption phases: purchase (including pre-purchase), use & maintenance and discarding....
International retailing of non-food fashion products, as chain stores impose a particular challenge within EA as the same general infrastructure networks, brands, data, business intelligence and applications should work in multiple, semi-compliant geographic regions. Generalised information syste...... international networks of chains encompassing marketing, supply chain, multi-channel concepts, payment systems and loyalty programs. Conclusively directions are set for a deepening of EA within retail....
António Machuco Rosa
concept of luxury as opposed to the social significance that luxury possessed in premodern societies. The evolution of luxury is seen within the context of the evolution of fashion, highlighting how it participates in the emergence of modern forms of display of individual desire. This evolution is analyzed through four historical examples: the dandy “Beau” Brummell, the haute couture initiated by Frederik Worth, the creations of Yves Saint Laurent and the collections that Karl Lagerfeld developed for H&M.
Sprigman, Chris; Raustiala, K
The orthodox justification for intellectual property is utilitarian. Advocates for strong IP rights argue that absent such rights copyists will free-ride on the efforts of creators and stifle innovation. This orthodox justification is logically straightforward and well reflected in the law. Yet a significant empirical anomaly exists: the global fashion industry, which produces a huge variety of creative goods without strong IP protection. Copying is rampant as the orthodox account would predi...
The marketing strategy, as core of the marketing policy, in the contemporary society and in the public institution, becomes a necessity not just a fashion. We undertake to reinforce this statement by arguments and to outline the specificity of the marketing strategy in the public institution of the modern society. Although public institutions are created and supported only if there is a large amount of social needs to be met during a certain period of time, the adoption of adequate marketing ...
In hyper-competitive markets, innovation is critical for the growth of market-driven companies. An examination of case studies of highly competitive global companies in the fast fashion sector, reveals that detailed understanding of the market, deriving from direct management of their stores, enables Zara, Gap and H&M to develop an innovation management capability. This is a fundamental competitive driver for the company's success.
Abazi, Jeton; Sohani, Armin
During the past years, there has been a re-emergence of sensory marketing in the paradigm of marketing. However, there is a lack of empirical studies done on the subject. Furthermore, the previous literature has focused on whether senses affects, rather than how they affect. Therefore, the purpose of this thesis is to study how sensory stimuli affects the consumers’ choice of entering physical fashion stores. This thesis is based on sensory marketing, consumer behaviour, and retail marketing...
Marciniak, R.; Gad Mohsen, Marwa
Consumer perceptions and consumer motivations are complex and whilst it is acknowledged within literature\\ud that heterogeneity exists, homogenous models dominate consumer behaviour research. The primary purpose of this\\ud paper is to explore the extent to which Arab women are a homogeneous group of consumers in regard to perceptions\\ud and motivations to consume luxury fashion goods. In particular, the paper seeks to present a critical review of luxury consumption frameworks. As part of the ...
Visual communication is an essential part of branding. Visual elements like logo, brand colours, and typography create associations with a brand and make it distinctive. Graphic design is a tool for visual communication that allows creating aesthetic and functional visual elements that convey some messages. The client of this thesis is a Finnish fashion company that does not have clear and consistent visual image, and the goal is to create it based on company’s values and desired image...
Maria Elena Nenni
Full Text Available Forecasting demand is a crucial issue for driving efficient operations management plans. This is especially the case in the fashion industry, where demand uncertainty, lack of historical data and seasonal trends usually coexist. Many approaches to this issue have been proposed in the literature over the past few decades. In this paper, forecasting methods are compared with the aim of linking approaches to the market features.
Muhammed Kürşad Özlen
Full Text Available The main purpose of retail business is to continuously maintain the responsiveness to the changing trends in consumer fashion tastes through quickly creating new designs that are suitable for all customers with an affordable price. Hence, the importance of Supply Chain (Management has appeared. The objectives of this study are to analyze the impact of purchasing and supply chain management strategies in retail industry and identify the way of success of AZEL FRANCE Retailer Company of ZARA clothing in Bosnia and Herzegovina from supply chain perspective management by conducting a survey study. AZEL FRANCE is found to be successful in that it can control and streamline the highly consumable fashion items in their supply chains so that they can greatly decrease their lead time and thus increase be responsive enough for fast changes in fashion customer needs and desires by minimizing the industry risks. The retailer stores of AZEL FRANCE are also found to be confident about the future profitability. However, some technical inabilities of the company are also identified. It can be suggested that AZEL FRANCE can easily leverage more its successfully implemented supply chain activities by increasing its technical abilities.
Full Text Available Many works have already dealt with anglicisms in Spanish, especially in science and information technologies. However, despite the high and growing number of English terms incorporated daily by the language of fashion, it has received comparative less attention in lexicographic and terminological studies than that of other areas, such as science or business. For several reasons, which include prestige or peer pressure, Spanish has not only adopted English words with new meanings and usage, but also contains other forms based on English patterns which users seem to consider more accurate or expressive. This paper concentrates on false anglicisms as indicators of some of the special relationships and influences between languages arising from the pervasive presence of English. We shall look at the Spanish language of fashion, which, in addition to genuine anglicisms, has for some time been using English words with different meanings, or even created items of its own (or imported them from other languages with the appearance of English words. These false anglicisms, which have proven extremely popular in receiving languages (not only in Spanish have frequently been disseminated by youth magazines and the new digital media, both in general spheres and in fashion-specific contexts.
Cristina DEL PINO-ROMERO
Full Text Available Los cambios vividos por la industria comunicativa en los últimos años, entre otros motivos debido al auge de las redes sociales, han convertido a los contenidos, informativos o de entretenimiento, en la piedra angular para hacer llegar el mensaje publicitario al destinatario. El esfuerzo por parte de los anunciantes de tener una estrategia de contenidos definida para su presencia en medios sociales o nuevos formatos comunicativos como el branded content, son ejemplo de que el advertainment está actualmente de moda. Este artículo se centra en el branded content y en otro ejemplo de esta tendencia: los fashion films, un nuevo género publicitario que ha irrumpido especialmente en los sectores de la moda y los productos de lujo, con el fin, entre otros, de ofrecer una nueva visión de éstos basada en la originalidad, contando historias que conecten con su público objetivo.
Mak, Sook Han
With the growing interest in online shopping along with the increase in internet penetration within the country, it is expected that more product categories will be offered online by local retailers. In the Malaysian retail scene, fashion is set to be one among the many potential new categories making its presence felt in the online channel soon. Taking cue from this new development, an exploratory research is conducted to understand the views of Malaysian consumers with the prospect of buyin...
Analisis Model Struktural Faktor-Faktor Pembentuk Fashion-Oriented Impulse Buying Produk Ritel Fashion Berdasarkan Sudut Pandang Konsumen Usia Remaja [Structural Model Analysis of Fashion-Oriented Impulse Buying of Retail Products Based on the Teenage Customer's Perspective
Berto Mulia Wibawa
Full Text Available The impact of globalization encourages many retailers from abroad with great capital to perform business activities especially in Indonesia. This also supported by the fashion industry which is currently growing. Unplanned purchases (or impulse buying is an act of purchase made by consumers who previously had no plans to buy the product. This study examines how fashion involvement influences positive emotion, hedonic consumption tendency, and fashion-oriented impulse buying at the retail fashion at Galaxy Mall Surabaya. The method of this study is using conclusive descriptive design with a multiple cross-sectional and judgmental sampling type. The distribution of questionnaires was done by direct survey to 188 customers of Zara, Pull & Bear and Stradivarius aged 15-21 who made purchases in one of those three stores in the last 1 month. The results of this study showed that fashion involvement has a positive effect on positive emotion, hedonic consumption tendency, and fashion-oriented impulse buying. A hedonic consumption tendency has a positive effect on positive emotions and fashion-oriented impulse buying. Other findings show that positive emotions have no influence towards fashion-oriented impulse buying. The results also recommended that retail mix strategy can be applied by Zara, Pull & Bear and Stradivarius to maximize retail revenue from potential customers by using the advantage of impulse buying behavior. Bahasa Indonesia Abstrak: Dampak globalisasi mendorong banyak pengusaha ritel dari luar negeri dengan kemampuan kapital yang besar melakukan aktivitas bisnis di Indonesia. Hal ini didukung oleh fenomena industri fashion yang saat ini semakin berkembang di Indonesia. Pembelian tak terencana (impulse buying merupakan tindakan pembelian yang dilakukan konsumen dimana sebelumnya belum ada rencana untuk membeli produk tersebut. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk menguji hubungan fashion involvement, positive emotion, hedonic consumption
The purpose of this study was to describe and analyze electronic word-of-mouth (eWOM) in consumer fashion blogs. The phenomenon of fashion blogs has become very popular among fashion consumers and companies within recent years. Fashion consumers buy clothes and shoes online, are active in social media pages, and produce electronic word-of-mouth in online communities. Fashion companies have noticed this change and want to be present in the Internet in different ways. In fashion blogs, there ar...
Brogi, Stefano; Calabrese, Armando; Campisi, Domenico; Capece, Guendalina; Costa, Roberta; Di Pillo, Francesca
Quoting the fashion genius Coco Chanel: “Fashion is not something that exists in dresses only. Fashion is in the sky, in the street, fashion has to do with ideas, the way we live, what is happening.” This is even more true today than it was back then. Indeed, Web 2.0 technologies have made luxury fashion more accessible to everyone. Nowadays, consumers can instantly access a wide variety of fashion goods on the Internet and share brand experiences with other consumers. In this scenario, Onlin...
Full Text Available The Internet has changed the way consumers gather information and shop. An increasingly competitive market calls for new marketing approaches to attract customers to the companies’ online stores. The aim of the present article is to understand what facilitates and what creates barriers to prioritizing repeat customers. Further, the article discusses repurchasing among young female online fashion shoppers and how these consumers can be retained. Two research questions are addressed: 1. What facilitates repurchasing among online fashion consumers, and why? 2. What creates barriers to re-purchasing among online fashion consumers, and why? In order to gain deeper knowledge of how e-tailers work with customer retention, we conducted a pilot study that included representatives from two clothing companies, as well as an expert interview with an analyst at the company Stroede Ralto. Then two focus groups consisting of young female online shoppers were formed. Results from the focus groups show that several companies use frequent e-mail advertising and targeted advertising on other websites to retain customers and facilitate re-purchasing. All participants found these features annoying rather than helpful. Moreover, the help functions provided in an online store played a major role in facilitating the purchasing, and shopping carts were appreciated as they enable customers to easily view and add items and obtain price information. We discovered that the consumers did most of their shopping on websites they found esthetically appealing and inspiring and that they would often return to these websites for inspiration or to browse. The article further provides advice to managers regarding how to retain customers.
Full Text Available This study is a research and development aimed at developing multimedia interactive learning based animation as an effort to improve student learning motivation in learning Fashion Design Technology apart from this study also aims to design a learning program courses Fashion Design Technology with a focus on optimizing the use of interactive media in learning process. From this study showed 1 A preliminary study found that the problems faced by students when studying Fashion Design Technology is the student is not optimal when learning designing clothes based computer technology both in terms of learning content learning mechanisms that still uses a linear media and limitations of highly structured learning time. 2 Animation multimedia has the following characteristics a media of learning is convergent interactive self-contained in the sense of giving convenience to users without the guidance of others as multimedia applications can present the material to see more interesting and informative. 3 Design of multimedia learning software developed include the creation of flowcharts storyboards and drafting manuscript of interactive multimedia based animation. 4 Based on the results of validation by multimedia experts obtained an average percentage of 85.55 viability of the material experts obtained an average percentage of 90.84 viability and by students as users gained an average percentage of 96.38 eligibility so it can be said that the standard of the feasibility of interactive multimedia based animation developed is included in the category of Very High or Very Good. Furthermore experts agree that the development of interactive multimedia based animation on learning Fashion Design Technology can be used with some aspects that need to be improved to obtain higher levels of feasibility more optimal.
Marques, António Manuel Dinis Ribeiro; Guedes, Maria da Graça
Proceedings da AUTEX 2015, Bucareste, Roménia. The know-how and experience (“learning-by-doing and learning-by-producing”) is critical in the traditional industries. The Portuguese fashion industry has many SMEs with a long experience working in private label regime to other European companies. The process followed by Procalçado shows the importance of the “CEO vision” and “corporate strategy” to acquire new equipment and technology, qualifying the workers to develop new products based ...
Full Text Available It’s fair to say that all human life is based on communication; passive and active, verbal and nonverbal. No matter which media type you consider, the importance of the so-called first impression cannot be overstated. Currently, as the world becomes more open and accessible, the individual character of the way we create our look takes a different form, but still remains an important messenger. In my thesis, I would like to present the outfit as a carrier of vital information about people. In parallel, I will analyze the clothing itself, researching both historic and contemporary sources. Finally, I attempt to decipher the language of fashion.
Full Text Available The marketing strategy, as core of the marketing policy, in the contemporary society and in the public institution, becomes a necessity not just a fashion. We undertake to reinforce this statement by arguments and to outline the specificity of the marketing strategy in the public institution of the modern society. Although public institutions are created and supported only if there is a large amount of social needs to be met during a certain period of time, the adoption of adequate marketing strategies and tactics is a must in order to achieve their efficiency.
Loodussõbralikust moest, ökoloogilistest materjalidest, jätkusuutlikest tootmismeetoditest moetööstuses, rõivaste taaskasutamisest. Briti ökodisainerite loomingu näitusest "Well Fashioned: Eco Fashion in the UK" Londonis
Full Text Available The paper considers the link between gay people and the fashion world, their role and and relationship to clothing in different fashion registries, as pointed out by Jennifer Craik, in high and in everyday fashion. Based on secondary literature the paper will outline current problematizations of the relationship between gays and high fashion, as well as their importance for the history of high, elite, designer fashion. In the second part of the paper, based on empirical research on the behavior of gay people in Belgrade fashion-wise, the discourses and practices of everyday fashion within the gay population of the capital of Serbia are presented, with a focus on three aspects of dressing practices: consumption of fashionable clothing and accessories with a focus on shopping, evaluation and hierarchization of branded clothing and the skill of combining them which respondents believe represents the key to their unique styles.
... DEPARTMENT OF STATE [Public Notice 8146] Culturally Significant Objects Imported for Exhibition; Determinations: ``Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity'' SUMMARY: Notice is hereby given of the following... exhibition ``Impressionism, Fashion, and Modernity,'' imported from abroad for temporary exhibition within...
Marques, A. D.; Guedes, G.; Ferreira, F.
Portugal is an important player in the European fashion industry. The Portuguese footwear industry, “low-tech” and traditional industry, dominated by SMEs and located in two main clusters, is a success case in the Portuguese economy. After a long period of decline until 2009, the footwear companies prepared new strategies that made big changes in the image and performance achieved. Since 2009, exports have increased more than 55% and the Portuguese footwear has grown in almost all the most important foreign markets. The competitive strategies followed by the Portuguese footwear companies are different and they can be clearly identified according Porter’s three generic competitive strategies: cost leadership, differentiation and focus strategy. This paper had analysed seven Portuguese footwear companies (seven cases, case study strategy) and the results obtained shows how important is to have the right approach to the markets, according the internal and external resources that each firm has available. The footwear clusters in Portugal and the sectorial organizations are also very important in this competitive performance achieved by the companies. Last years the Portuguese governments recognize this increasing importance of the fashion industries and prepared several programs to promote these industries in Europe and other continents.
Full Text Available The integration among different companies functions, collaborative planning and the elaboration of focused distribution plans are critical to the success of each kind of company working in the complex retail sector. In this contest, the present work proposes the description of a model able to support coordinated strategic choices continually made by Supply Chain (SC actors. The final objective is achievement of the full optimisation of Merchandise & Replenishment Planning phases, identifying the right replenishment quantities and periods. To test the proposed model’s effectiveness, it was applied to an important Italian fashion company in the complex field of fast-fashion, a sector in which promptness is a main competitive leverage and, therefore, the planning cannot exclude the time variable. The passage from a total push strategy, currently used by the company, to a push-pull one, suggested by the model, allowed us not only to estimate a reduction in goods quantities to purchase at the beginning of a sales period (with considerable economic savings, but also elaborate a focused replenishment plan that permits reduction and optimisation of departures from network warehouses to Points of Sale (POS.
Full Text Available Though by the last decade of twentieth century the clothing sphere was observed from various one-dimensional perspectives, the accelerated development of cultural studies helped overcome all flaws of previous approaches to this demanding social and cultural practice. Fashion studies become one of integral subsystems within contemporary cultural studies what made a great step in the movement from classical costumes study as a credible element of material culture (as it was treated by ethnological, anthropological and historical studies towards the clothing study as a symbolic text, which once just as a trace/artifact in diachronic time now also functioned as the sign for social and ideological affiliation, sexuality and chosen lifestyle. Fashion studies define clothing potentially as a text and a picture, an ideological sign but also as the subject of massive consumption. However, clothing is primarily defined in relation to the body. In that sense, the body and clothing make an indissoluble whole, which changes in line with changes dictated by the environment, cultural and social context of the realization of the individual existence by presenting a succession of incoherent cultural identities.
Full Text Available With the economic and social development, material life in the era of abundance is not only in meeting the basic needs of life, but also modern consumers become forced to pursue the spiritual and cultural needs. On the other side, clothing will not just fulfill the basic functions of beauty and suitability, thus, more consumers begin to pay closer attentions to apparel textile’s individuation expression and technological elements, or to some other deeper emotional requirements etc. Smart textiles originally belongs to the cutting-edge scientific field of fashion industry, however, with the booming development of internet industry and smart phone devices, acute apparel manufacturers must have to take a ride on advanced tech-trends and launch a wide expansion of smart textile fibres’s applications into the clothing industry. This thesis would present a basic introduction on the concept and classifications of the smart textile fibres, and then like to deploy a profound analysis of smart textiles applied in the brand fashion design.
Christopher M. VanDemark
Full Text Available In this article, Christopher VanDemark explores the intersections between nationalism, fashion, and the royal figure in Hungary between 1857 and the Compromise of 1867. Focusing on aesthetics as a vehicle for feminine power at a critical junction in Hungarian history, VanDemark contextualizes Empress Elisabeth’s role in engendering a revised political schema in the Habsburg sphere. Foreseeing the power of emblematic politics, the young Empress adeptly situated herself between the Hungarians and the Austrians to recast the Hungarian martyrology narrative promulgated after the failed revolution of 1848. Eminent Hungarian newspapers such as the Pesti Napló, Pester Lloyd, and the Vasárnapi Újság form the backbone of this article, as publications such as these facilitated the dissemination of patriotic sentiment while simultaneously exulting the efficacy of symbolic fashions. The topic of study engages with contemporary works on nationalism, which emphasize gender and aesthetics, and contributes to the emerging body of scholarship on important women in Hungarian history. Seminal texts by Catherine Brice, Sara Maza, Abby Zanger, and Lynn Hunt compliment the wider objective of this brief analysis, namely, the notion that the Queen’s body can both enhance and reform monarchical power within a nineteenth-century milieu.
Rosângela Elisa de Sousa
Full Text Available This project addresses social inclusion, as a resource to be stimulated by the development of fashion products. Taking into account this market demand research, part of the project, identified aspects of use, accessibility, comfort and perception of parents and therapists with regard to dress, undress and cognitive development in relation to clothing. The audience researched this project were wheelchair children with age range from eight to twelve years, parents and professionals in the health field, such as Physiotherapists, Physical Educator, Occupational Therapist and psychologists, members of institutions CEAEHH - Centro de Atividades Especiais Helena Holanda e FUNAD – Fundação Centro Integrado de Apoio ao Portador de Deficiência, João Pessoa - PB, supporters this project through the sale of infrastructure and public access. The data resulted in the development of a fashion collection with differentiated modeling, versatility of uses combined with an aesthetic framework that prioritized the inclusion of wheelchair-bound child in society through the use of the usual market trends in the children's segment.
MohammadRahim Esfidani; Mohsen Nazari; Maryam Karimi Davijani
Social shopping behavior of fashion embraces various activities, direct/indirect complex and dynamic interpersonal happening during the process of buying fashion and causes customers’ pleasure and satisfaction from purchasing intention, which in long-term helps sales improvement. Market of fashion apparel in IRAN is the biggest consumer market in the Middle East. Despite this huge marke, marketing knowledge of fashion apparel in iran has not been developed yet. considering the nessecities of ...
This master's thesis deals with Trends in Fashion Marketing and their influence to consumer buying decision. The aim of the thesis is to analyse consumer's attitude to fashion marketing and it's current trends: Fast Fashion, online shopping, co-branding and influence of social sites. The thesis is devided into a theoretical and a practical part. The theoretical part deals with consumer behavior, specification of current situation on the fashion market, locating of production and supply chain ...
The article deals with the concept of creative industries, fashion and its prevalence among consumer society. It analyzes the evolution of consumer culture and its relationship with fashion as well as fashion and style concept of value. The article represents theorist’s insight and reflection on the consumer society and the search for individuality in vogue. Also it reviews the role of fashion in the consumer society as diverse and complex phenomenon, which with the certain character and non-...
Rudolf Pástor; Jana Parízková
This paper is focused on creativity in the fashion design in Slovakia. The fashion design in Bratislava region was selected as one of the creative industry for our research. The aim of the paper is to analyze creativity and innovation activities between Slovak fashion designers. In the paper will be presented results from research carried out between Slovak fashion designers located in Bratislava region. The empirical work that provides the basis for this case study used a case study approach...
Insania, Rima; Mutiaz, Intan Rizky
Indonesian young designers have a very strong potential to explore the International level with the achievements that gradually starts to open the eyes of the global fashion world.urban youth local label movement which spreading in 5 years, glance Indonesia fashion industry. One of the is Pinx Project. Pinx Project, found in late November 2011, grew along with urban youth fashion which was booming among young people and many other emerging fashion lines. Pinx, which can still be considered as...
This thesis provides a conceptualisation of brand orientation within the context of fashion retailing, specially the luxury, or, so-called, high fashion retailing. Most of the high fashion sold today is ready to wear collections and diffusion lines, targeted to customers of particular class, age, income, social status, and with particular orientations to fashion. In plethora of offers, retailer need to work on a number of distinctive features that will make its store special, not only because...
Tshabalala, Pulaki Joseph
Opinion leadership and opinion seeking are central constructs in academic studies of new product innovations. Fashion opinion leaders as those individuals who accelerate the fashion maturity process by legitimising a fashionable trend and influence other consumers to adopt the new innovative style as a replacement for the current accepted one. Consumers who accept information and adopt new style innovations are called opinion seekers and are important to the diffusion of new fashions because ...
Fatma Engin Alpat; Yusuf Ziya Aksu
In this article the idenfication of a fashion product, its variability and the analyses of fashion as an industrial design will be discussed within the framework of fashion product marketing. The process of product creation is closely related to the economic, sociological and psychological factors considered, hence, sociologists and trend setters are working together because the concept of fashion product should be viewed as a determiner of status and power of a certain community. Each group ...
Honorato, Talita C; Haadsma, Maaike L; Land, Jolande A; Boezen, Marike H; Hoek, Annemieke; Groen, Henk
OBJECTIVE: Cigarette smoking is a risk factor for earlier menopause. Animal studies show that in-utero smoke exposure is toxic to developing ovaries. Our aim was to evaluate whether in-utero smoke exposed women reach menopause earlier compared with nonexposed women. METHODS: This is a cohort study
...-AA00 Safety Zone; Old Fashion 4th July Fireworks, Presque Isle Bay, Erie, PA AGENCY: Coast Guard, DHS... during the Old Fashion 4th July Fireworks display. This temporary safety zone is necessary to protect... ensure the safety of spectators and vessels during the Old Fashion 4th July Fireworks. [[Page 35620...
This paper presents an overview of 3D body scanning technologies with applications to the fashion and apparel industry. Complete systems for the digitization of the human body exist since more than fifteen years. One of the main users of this technology with application in the textile field was the military industry. In fact, body scanning technology is being successfully employed since many years in military bases for a fast selection of the correct size of uniforms for the entire staff. Complete solutions were especially developed for this field of application. Many different research projects were issued for the exploitation of the same technology in the commercial field. Experiments were performed and start-up projects are to time running in different parts of the world by installing full body scanning systems in various locations such as shopping malls, boutiques or dedicated scanning centers. Everything is actually ready to be exploited and all the required hardware, software and solutions are available: full body scanning systems, software for the automatic and reliable extraction of body measurements, e-kiosk and web solutions for the presentation of garments, high-end and low-end virtual-try-on systems. However, complete solutions in this area have still not yet found the expected commercial success. Today, with the on-going large cost reduction given by the appearance of new competitors, methods for digitization of the human body becomes more interesting for the fashion and apparel industry. Therefore, a large expansion of these technologies is expected in the near future. To date, different methods are used commercially for the measurement of the human body. These can be divided into three major distinguished groups: laser-scanning, projection of light patterns, combination modeling and image processing. The different solutions have strengths and weaknesses that profile their suitability for specific applications. This paper gives an overview of their
Full Text Available The Zandra Rhodes Digital Study Collection project was a unique collaborative venture between staff and students at the University for the Creative Arts (UCA and their Chancellor, the British fashion and textile designer Zandra Rhodes. Working within the designer’s private studio space, this initiative has developed the first digital record of her personal collection of garments and drawings, supported and enriched with behind-the-scenes video interviews and tutorials, for worldwide educational use. This paper examines the benefits and strategies for undertaking the project in situ within the designer’s private studio environment. It outlines the need for a bespoke, flexible approach to digitisation in the visual arts that respects the individuality and creativity of the artist, whilst drawing on established documentation standards and expertise from the library, archive and museum sector.
Full Text Available The core research issue on which this study focuses is customer relationship management (CRM in a designated window fashions firm. A system dynamics-based CRM model is developed to help evaluate the effectiveness of CRM in the firm and examine factors affecting customer satisfaction. Different relationships and linkages between the firm, its employees, and its customers are identified to establish feedback loops that analyze the system over time. The analysis of the CRM model shows that employee satisfaction is the key leverage point affecting customer satisfaction, number of customers, and sales volume of the firm. Product attractiveness and service quality also play an important role in influencing the level of customer satisfaction. On the other hand, advertising and employee training have only minor effects on customer satisfaction.
Lívia Juliana Silva Solino
Full Text Available The fast-fashion (FF is considered an approach and phenomenon of global influence that suit the requirements of a constantly changing and demanding market, since it is a business model resulting of a mixture of fast manufacturing, flexibility, low cost and agile retail approaches. Within this context, this research by a systematic literature review seeks to answer how the FF has been addressed in scientific studies published until the year 2013. Through the review, a total of 82 texts was analysed, among them articles, dissertations and theses. The research method employed is characterized as descriptive, regarding the objectives, and as qualitative and quantitative, on the approach. After conducting the classification of the material, it was possible to understand the state-of-the-art, and thus set a holistic concept and the appropriate term for the FF. As well as propose a research agenda with new approaches for future studies within the relevant topic.
Full Text Available Small online businesses around the world are facing an immense challenge: to respond to economic opportunities and, at the same time, to address increasing environmental pressures. This research deals with the consumer’s attitude and awareness towards organic clothing and it suggests that the most people are aware of some of the environmental dilemmas in fashion consumption. The data obtained from the survey were analysed using multiple linear regression, Chi-Square, ANOVA and Correlation Analysis to examine possible results that bring about the understanding of consumer knowledge, belief, perceptions and willingness to purchase organic clothes. Moreover, this paper also provides some useful recommendations for promoting organic clothing products and growing the sustainable online market for them.
Full Text Available This paper describes the structure of the logistic maturity model (LMM in detail and shows the possible improvements that can be achieved by using this model in terms of the identification of the most appropriate actions to be taken in order to increase the performance of the logistics processes in industrial companies. The paper also gives an example of the LMM’s application to a famous Italian female fashion firm, which decided to use the model as a guideline for the optimization of its supply chain. Relying on a 5-level maturity staircase, specific achievement indicators as well as key performance indicators and best practices are defined and related to each logistics area/process/sub-process, allowing any user to easily and rapidly understand the more critical logistical issues in terms of process immaturity.
Full Text Available Motivated by the recent blockchain technology originally built for bitcoin transactions, various industries are exploring the opportunities to redefine their existing operational systems. In this study, an innovative environmentally sustainable solution is proposed for the fashion apparel manufacturing industry (FAMI, which is energized by blockchain. Incorporating the Emission Trading Scheme (ETS, and a novel “emission link” system, the proposed framework exposes carbon emission to the public and establishes a feature to reduce the emissions for all key steps of clothing making. Fully compatible with Industry 4.0, blockchain provides decentralization, transparency, automation, and immutability characteristics to the proposed framework. Specifically, the blockchain supported ETS framework, the carbon emissions of clothing manufacturing life cycle, and the emission link powered procedures are introduced in detail. A case study is provided to demonstrate the carbon emission evaluation procedure. Finally, a multi-criteria evaluation is performed to demonstrate the benefits and drawbacks of the proposed system.
¬quately to changing demands in their business activities. However many companies find it dif¬ficult to achieve the full poten¬tial of these technologies as practical advices that can help companies and the management in their decision-making, selecting and implementing new technology are rare (Boer and Krabbendam......, 1998). The intention of this paper is, through illustrative case studies from France and Denmark within the highly competitive business of optical frame design (fashion) to present a model for strategy as well as a practical model for improvement of time to market of styling objects by use of digital...... platforms. Aspects are: 1) selection of platform from a strategic point of view, 2) selection of 2D and 3D CAD from a practical point of view and 3) creation and implementation of digital platforms. Finally, briefly aspects of teaching of platform theory at the department of Architecture & Industrial design...
Todorović, T.; Pavko-Čuden, A.
The development of fashion seems to have occurred in societies which were changing, where that change is valued by some group within the society, and social mobility was possible. Fashion is not possible in totally egalitarian society nor in a rigid hierarchy. The paper presents Slovenian/Yugoslavian fashion design based on local industrial and educational capacities in the golden age of the textile and clothing branch. The paradox of Western style fashion in the frame of socialistic political system in commented. In the late 1940s, Yugoslav modernity transmitted through fashionable dress was mainly representational, since industry was unable to deliver fashionable dresses due to post-war poverty and backwardness. Yugoslavia’s different path toward socialism was mirrored in its different symbolic and material production of dress in comparison to that of other Eastern European countries. Although factories had been nationalised, attacks on Western fashion were never intense, and the Yugoslav regime did not establish a central dress institution to politically direct the design, production and distribution of clothes as it was the case in most Eastern European countries. The restoration and the development of the textile industry evoked a need for new jobs, specifically in textile and fashion design. The fashion scene in Slovenia/Yugoslavia started to differ from other Eastern countries. In the golden age of the national textile and clothing industry fashion collections have gone hand in hand with the European fashion.
Fatma Engin Alpat
Full Text Available In this article the idenfication of a fashion product, its variability and the analyses of fashion as an industrial design will be discussed within the framework of fashion product marketing. The process of product creation is closely related to the economic, sociological and psychological factors considered, hence, sociologists and trend setters are working together because the concept of fashion product should be viewed as a determiner of status and power of a certain community. Each group within the community should be defined within a certain status and therefore each status corresponds to a relevant fashion concept. The survival of the fashion designers within the industrial sector could only be plausable if fashion is firstly analyzed conceptually and then applied separately to each group of the community.
Full Text Available Studies of the theory and history of fashion, which were up until recently grouped with culture studies, gender studies, communicology, art history and anthropology are, on the academic map of the 21st century being established as separate disciplines. Consolidating these contexts, the affirmation of fashion studies has been most prevalent within the museology of fashion, as it - or rather – fashion museology is becoming one of the leading tendencies within contemporary museum practices. This paper views fashion as a specific kind of system, coded through sociocultural codes, and finds the reason for the ever-increasing number of exhibitions of fashion on the international as well as the national museum scene in the codes of fashion which oscillate between the aesthetic and the commercial. By affirming fashion as an art form on the one hand and increasing the profitability of the institution on the other, fashion exhibitions enable museums to become „fashionable“ – to keep up with contemporary, more liberal exhibition concepts. Despite the fact that in this year there have been a large number of fashion exhibitions in national museums, fashion is still without its own museology, a scientific theory which would explain it as a museum phenomenon. The exhibits are interpreted historically, while explaining their utilitarian and aesthetic value, while the question of why fashion is exhibited as an art form or a kind of cultural production to the consumer of the exhibition - the visitor – remains unanswered. By analyzing historical events which conditioned the museum exhibiting of fashion as well as the different conceptions of its exhibition, the author strives to – through the juxtaposition of international and national exhibitions catch sight of the causes of the lack of a museology of fashion, and open up the issue of its affirmation within the professional academic and museum community of Serbia.
-1 (FCN1) gene is associated with an earlier onset of type 1 diabetes mellitus in children and adolescents from northeast Brazil. ZILMA PEREIRA DOS ANJOSA MANUELLA MARIA SILVA SANTOS NATASSIA JAVORSKI RODRIGUES ...
Full Text Available ABSTRAKKain tritik jumputan merupakan salah satu jenis kerajinan tekstil dari Jawa. Jumlah industri pembuat kain tritik jumputan semakin berkurang, sehingga perlu dilakukan pengembangan motif pada tritik jumputan agar lebih menarik. Smock adalah salah satu teknik keterampilan menjahit dan menyulam tangan, yaitu teknik tusukan menjahit untuk membuat kerutan-kerutan yang menghasilkan motif menarik sesuai pola tertentu. Tujuan kegiatan ini adalah melakukan pengembangan teknik smock sebagai teknik dalam pewarnaan yang dikombinasikan dengan teknik tritik jumputan sehingga dapat meningkatkan daya saing produk fashion tritik jumputan. Metode dalam kegiatan ini adalah melakukan survey langsung ke industri tritik jumputan serta eksplorasi literatur. Data-data yang diperoleh kemudian dianalisa dari segi proses maupun desain motifnya. Tahap berikutnya dilakukan ujicoba pewarnaan dengan mengkombinasikan dua teknik yaitu teknik smock dan teknik tritik jumputan. Ujicoba yang dilakukan tercipta desain motif baru yang indah. Hasil kegiatan diperoleh 23 desain motif baru. Pengamatan visual menunjukkan hasil pewarnaan yang paling optimal adalah pada kain mori Primissima. Berdasarkan hasil uji labolatorium, tekstil kerajinan ini mempunyai ketahanan luntur warna terhadap pencucian, keringat, dan sinar yang bagus, dengan nilai hasil uji 4 – 5. Sedangkan nilai ketahanan luntur warna terhadap gosokan, adalah 3. Dapat dikatakan hasil pewarnaan dengan mengkombinasikan dua teknik ini memenuhi standar kualitas sebagai produk bahan sandang. Ujicoba pasar yang dilakukan menunjukkan bahwa ternyata respon masyarakat sangat bagus. Hasil uji kesukaan responden mendapatkan nilai sangat bagus sebanyak 55%, dan bagus sebanyak 45%. Teknik pewarnaan smock kombinasi tritik jumputan ini prosesnya sederhana, tidak memerlukan alat khusus, sehingga berpotensi untuk dikembangkan menjadi sumber daya ekonomi yang signifikan. Kata kunci: ABSTRACTTritik jumputan is one kind of craft textile
Razvojni put modne ilustracije 20. i 21. veka – likovno predstavljanje mode (u slikarstvu, modnim tablama i modnim ilustracijama / Development of Fashion Illustration during the 20th and 21st Century: Pictorial Representation of Fashion (in Painting, Fashion Plates and Fashion Illustrations
Full Text Available The theme of this study is pictorial representation of costume and fashion in painting, fashion plates and fashion illustrations. Fashion illustration of the 20th century, specific in terms of freedom of interpretation that is given to the artists when representing fashion trends, has kept those elements of painting that are almost lost in contemporary art movements (for instance figuration. Through several specific examples in art history I will try to demonstrate the artist’s approach to the representation of costume. In this study I will also try to define the role of painting when it comes to the fashion, the role of fashion plates and then the role of fashion illustration created in the early 20th century. Finally, I will take a look at the fashion photography that in the beginning has found its role-models precisely in the fashion illustration and today is returning to the visual characteristics of renaissance art, and to the painting in general, from which everything has begun.
Goldsmith, Ronald E; Kim, Daekwan; Flynn, Leisa R; Kim, Wan-Min
Price sensitivity is how consumers react to price levels and to price changes. Consumer innovativeness is a tendency to welcome and to adopt new products. Researchers (e.g., R. E. Goldsmith & S. J. Newell, 1997) consider innovative consumers relatively more price insensitive than other consumers, so there should be a negative correlation between measures of these constructs. The results of the present study supported the psychometric soundness of a self-report measure of price sensitivity among 860 Korean consumers and replicated earlier findings of the negative correlation between the 2 constructs.
", Suyanto; Ardilla, Sucie Nella
Most of university liberate their students to dress in the collage. Of course with the applicable rules. But along with times many changes happened in dress. We can found a lot of trends that look unusual and eccentric. On the other hand, Fashion magazine looks more incentives to providing the latest fashion trends. Each magazine provides its own fashion style according to the age category in that magazine. And the GoGirl! magazines, included in the category of magazines that read by the stud...
Mongiovi, Jennifer; Clarke Hillyer, Grace; Basch, Corey H; Ethan, Danna; Hammond, Rodney
Background: Although prescriptions are dispensed at discretion of medical professionals, many pharmaceutical companies use direct-to-consumer (DTC) advertising to increase sales. Over-the-counter (OTC) medications are similarly marketed. Methods: We examined the content of advertisements in 38 issues of 9 popular US women's fashion magazines. We evaluated target audience, health condition, product availability, message appeal, target to females, and mention of potential side effects and benefits. Results: Sixty total medication advertisements were identified, 58.3% (95% CI: 45.8, 70.8) for prescription products. In magazines targeted to non-Hispanic Whites, >65% of advertisements were for OTC medications whereas 80% (95% CI: 66.7, 94.5) of advertisements found in Black/Latina magazines were for prescription medications. The rational appeal was used most commonly in non-Hispanic White magazines (75.9%; 95% CI: 60.3, 91.5). Emotional appeal was featured more often in prescription advertisements magazines (60.0; 95% CI:43.8, 76.2) compared to OTC (8.0; 95% CI: -2.6, 18.6). Conclusion: Although emotional appeal may be effective for selling medication to women, it often does not completely inform consumers of potential risks.
Rice, Emily L.; Ash, Summer
Astronomical images in the public domain have increasingly been used as inspiration and patterns for clothing, accessories, and home decor. These 'AstroFashion' items are as diverse as DIY projects, handmade and boutique products, mass-produced commercial items, and haute couture. STARtorialist is a Tumblr-based blog that curates the proliferation of these products with the goal of celebrating the beauty of the universe and highlighting the science behind the images. The blog also includes sci-fi, space, and science-related aspects of popular culture. Each post features images and descriptions of the products, and often where/how we found them and/or the people wearing them, with links to the original astronomical images or other relevant science content. The popularity of each post is evident in the number of 'notes', including 'faves' (personal bookmarks) and 'reblogs' (shares with other users). Since launching the blog in December 2013, with an average of one post per day, we've attracted hundreds of followers on Tumblr and Twitter and thousands of notes on Tumblr. We will present our most popular posts and recommend how education, outreach, and press offices can add Tumblr to their social media repertoire.
Muqaku, Besnik; Tahir, Ammar; Klepeisz, Philip; Bileck, Andrea; Kreutz, Dominique; Mayer, Rupert L; Meier, Samuel M; Gerner, Marlene; Schmetterer, Klaus; Gerner, Christopher
Anti-inflammatory effects of coffee consumption have been reported to be caused by caffeine and adenosine receptor signaling. However, contradictory effects have been observed. Many kinds of chronic diseases are linked to inflammation; therefore a profound understanding of potential effects of coffee consumption is desirable. We performed ex vivo experiments with eight individuals investigating peripheral blood mononuclear cells isolated from venous blood before and after coffee consumption, as well as in vitro experiments applying caffeine on isolated cells. After in vitro inflammatory stimulation of the cells, released cytokines, chemokines, and eicosanoids were determined and quantified using targeted mass spectrometric methods. Remarkably, the release of inflammation mediators IL6, IL8, GROA, CXCL2, CXCL5 as well as PGA2, PGD2, prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), LTC4, LTE4, and 15S-HETE was significantly affected after coffee consumption. While in several individuals coffee consumption or caffeine treatment caused significant downregulation of most inflammation mediators, in other healthy individuals exactly the opposite effects were observed. Ruling out age, sex, coffee consumption habits, the metabolic kinetics of caffeine in blood and the individual amount of regulatory T cells or CD39 expression as predictive parameters, we demonstrated here that coffee consumption may have significant pro- or anti-inflammatory effects in an individual fashion. © 2016 WILEY-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim.
Steltzer, Heidi; Landry, Chris; Painter, Thomas H; Anderson, Justin; Ayres, Edward
Dust deposition to mountain snow cover, which has increased since the late 19(th) century, accelerates the rate of snowmelt by increasing the solar radiation absorbed by the snowpack. Snowmelt occurs earlier, but is decoupled from seasonal warming. Climate warming advances the timing of snowmelt and early season phenological events (e.g., the onset of greening and flowering); however, earlier snowmelt without warmer temperatures may have a different effect on phenology. Here, we report the results of a set of snowmelt manipulations in which radiation-absorbing fabric and the addition and removal of dust from the surface of the snowpack advanced or delayed snowmelt in the alpine tundra. These changes in the timing of snowmelt were superimposed on a system where the timing of snowmelt varies with topography and has been affected by increased dust loading. At the community level, phenology exhibited a threshold response to the timing of snowmelt. Greening and flowering were delayed before seasonal warming, after which there was a linear relationship between the date of snowmelt and the timing of phenological events. Consequently, the effects of earlier snowmelt on phenology differed in relation to topography, which resulted in increasing synchronicity in phenology across the alpine landscape with increasingly earlier snowmelt. The consequences of earlier snowmelt from increased dust deposition differ from climate warming and include delayed phenology, leading to synchronized growth and flowering across the landscape and the opportunity for altered species interactions, landscape-scale gene flow via pollination, and nutrient cycling.
This essay examines the way in which disease was framed and narrated as fashionable in the long eighteenth century, and argues that the intensifying focus on women's fashionable disorders in the period grew in tandem with the rise of an unstable capitalism in its manifold forms. Using the satirical articles written by Henry Southern in the London Magazine-"On Fashions" (August 1825), "On Fashions in Physic" (October 1825), and "On Dilettante Physic" (January 1826)-and the literature that led to them, I analyze the role that women were now taking in the newly capitalized world of the early nineteenth century. This world was characterized by a burgeoning medical market, a periodical and print market which could adequately reflect and promote fashionable diseases and the medical market that spawned them, and the nexus of actors in the whole drama of the production, maintenance, and dissolution of fashionable diseases.
Maria Fernanda Nedochetko Carli
Full Text Available Permanent innovation is composed, with the charm and styling, the three logical fashion, according to Lipovetsky and Serroy. From this premise, this article analyzes the blog A Year Without Zara, created by a blogger, a consumer of fashion, which they proposed to buy nothing for a year and disseminate this procedure on the network. Through the study of blog posts and considering the logic of fashion phenomenon, the paper intends to understand how fashion is being built, considering the denial factor consumption. By exposing the constant renewal resuming fashions past, spreading the use of clothing, accessories and other products and also promoting lifestyles and behaviors, the blog A Year Without Zara resizes an idea about fashion, updating itself, so contradictory, for another type of consumption.
Full Text Available Fabric selection plays an important role in fashion garment design. Designers often use both physical and normalized linguistic criteria for fabric selection. Perception and preference of consumers in their specific sociocultural context, expressed by fashion themes or emotional linguistic criteria, affect greatly new fashion product design. Modeling the relationship between linguistic design criteria and fashion themes of a brand image perceived by consumers becomes thus significant. For setting up this model, we first use fuzzy relations and correlation techniques to select the most relevant linguistic design criteria of fabric hand for each specific fashion theme. The selected criteria can then effectively reduce the complexity of the model and interpret consumer perception of fabrics. Finally, we use a weighted aggregation operator to predict the similarity degree between any new product and fashion themes. Compared with other models, the proposed method is more robust and easier to be interpreted with real data collected for design of senior T-shirt fabrics.
孫, 珠煕（孫 珠熙）
In this study, 75 elderly people in day care participated in a mini fashion show as models and evaluated the clothes they wore. The clothes were selected by the elderly themselves from among 51 samples of five different themes, including fast fashion brands and conservative brands. Among the five themes, the elderly liked fast fashion brands most (61.3%). Few of them considered costly clothes a status symbol, and many tended to like distinctive-looking trendy clothes. A covariance structure a...
А V Lebsak-Kleimans
Full Text Available The concepts of social changes coined by classical sociology may be incorporated as the basis for the elaboration of social prognostication models which, in turn, may suitable for fashion forecast applied technologies development. In the framework of the given paper fashion is described as the phenomenon of collective behaviour. The principles of long-term fashion trends forecast are shown to be in line with the concepts of cyclic development.
Walker, Kandi L; Hart, Joy L; Gregg, Jennifer L; LaJoie, A Scott
Today, fashion items such as rubber wristbands in various colors, pink ribbons, and red dresses represent different health-related causes and can be seen frequently across demographic groups. Complete with pithy slogans (e.g., "Go Red for Women"), these items are part of a larger "health fashion" trend--one that involves wearing, using, and displaying health-cause clothing and accessories. In this article, the authors explore recent interest in "health fashion," examining in particular its origins, effectiveness, and implications.
Pham, Dang Dung
The thesis explores the underlying motivations behind young Vietnamese consumers’ choice to shop luxury fashion products on the internet and the factors influencing their choice of online stores. The target of the research are young Vietnamese people living in Vietnam aged between 20 and 29. The research was built around the theory of online retail attributes, luxury fashion online consumer behavior, and luxury fashion online marketing and examined different motivations and online store’s...
Given an increasingly competitive fashion environment, several multinational corporations have shown their tendency to enter Taiwan’s fashion market. Young Taiwanese consumers seem more than willing to embrace these foreign brands. The purpose of this research is to investigate young Taiwanese consumers’ fashion apparel consumption behaviour, including their evaluations toward “country of origin” effect and to discover their preference of foreign brands; in addition, to explore the issue o...
Bin Shen; Pui-Sze Chow; Tsan-Ming Choi
In the fashion industry, department stores normally trade with suppliers of national brands by markdown contract whilst developing private labels with cooperated designers by profit sharing contract. Motivated by this real industrial practice, we study a single-supplier single-retailer two-echelon fashion supply chain selling a short-life fashion product of either a national brand or a private label. The supplier refers to the national/designer brand owner and the retailer refers to the depar...
As a relatively recent social and cultural phenomenon, fashion currently embodies a certain erotic imagery that seems to organise collective life. According to Lipovetsky, it governs our societies. Fashion, being ephemeral by nature, actually expresses the sovereignty of appearance and the power of aesthetic fantasy. It is, in fact, the most significant representation of the triumph of seduction and spectacle. Consequently, fashion is, somehow, a way of understanding the social. This essay bu...
Motale, Matebello Dieketseng Bethsheba
While there have been numerous studies directed at addressing the female Generation Y cohort’s fashion consumption patterns, there is a dearth of published research focused on male consumer fashion conscious behaviour, especially not that of the African Generation Y (hereafter referred to as black Generation Y) males. There are global indications that contemporary males are engaging in fashion apparel shopping more frequently than ever before. Moreover, unlike past generations, today’s male c...
Luo Wang; Bin Shen
With the increasing awareness of sustainability, eco-design has been an important trend in the fashion industry. Many fashion brands such as Nike, Adidas, and The North Face have developed sustainable fashion by incorporating eco-design elements. Eco-design is an important part of sustainable supply chains. In this paper, we conducted a product line analysis of eco-designed products from a famous outdoor sportswear brand, Patagonia. We collected Patagonia’s 2017 Spring Season product line dat...
Duffy, J. F.; Dijk, D. J.; Klerman, E. B.; Czeisler, C. A.
The contribution of the circadian timing system to the age-related advance of sleep-wake timing was investigated in two experiments. In a constant routine protocol, we found that the average wake time and endogenous circadian phase of 44 older subjects were earlier than that of 101 young men. However, the earlier circadian phase of the older subjects actually occurred later relative to their habitual wake time than it did in young men. These results indicate that an age-related advance of circadian phase cannot fully account for the high prevalence of early morning awakening in healthy older people. In a second study, 13 older subjects and 10 young men were scheduled to a 28-h day, such that they were scheduled to sleep at many circadian phases. Self-reported awakening from scheduled sleep episodes and cognitive throughput during the second half of the wake episode varied markedly as a function of circadian phase in both groups. The rising phase of both rhythms was advanced in the older subjects, suggesting an age-related change in the circadian regulation of sleep-wake propensity. We hypothesize that under entrained conditions, these age-related changes in the relationship between circadian phase and wake time are likely associated with self-selected light exposure at an earlier circadian phase. This earlier exposure to light could account for the earlier clock hour to which the endogenous circadian pacemaker is entrained in older people and thereby further increase their propensity to awaken at an even earlier time.
Rasmussen, Lene Kofoed; Nielsen, Charlotte Hahn; Willaa, Katrine Cecilie Weiland
school years when outlining a career path of each pupil. In addition, a subject named “Education and job” are to be taught from preschool till 9th grade, spanning three fields of competencies “Personal choice”, “From education to job” and “Worklife”, where “personal choice” has been given more weight...... and for the professional work with that issue. We ask, in a Bourdieu fashion, how do early carrier learning and evaluation of readiness structure opportunities for various pupils? Are differences and inequality reproduced, or are new patterns of in- and exclusion evolving? How do the career learning tasks fit...
Hattori, Yusuke; Ishibashi, Kohei; Noda, Takashi; Okamura, Hideo; Kanzaki, Hideaki; Anzai, Toshihisa; Yasuda, Satoshi; Kusano, Kengo
We describe the case of a 37-year-old woman who presented with complete right bundle branch block and right axis deviation. She was admitted to our hospital due to severe heart failure and was dependent on inotropic agents. Cardiac resynchronization therapy was initiated but did not improve her condition. After the optimization of the pacing timing, we performed earlier right ventricular pacing, which led to an improvement of her heart failure. Earlier right ventricular pacing should be considered in patients with complete right bundle branch block and right axis deviation when cardiac resynchronization therapy is not effective.
Zancu, Simona Alexandra; Enea, Violeta
In the light of recent concerns regarding the eating disorders among fashion models and professional regulations of fashion model occupation, an examination of the scientific evidence on this issue is necessary. The article reviews findings on the prevalence of eating disorders and body image concerns among professional fashion models. A systematic literature search was conducted using ProQUEST, EBSCO, PsycINFO, SCOPUS, and Gale Canage electronic databases. A very low number of studies conducted on fashion models and eating disorders resulted between 1980 and 2015, with seven articles included in this review. Overall, results of these studies do not indicate a higher prevalence of eating disorders among fashion models compared to non-models. Fashion models have a positive body image and generally do not report more dysfunctional eating behaviors than controls. However, fashion models are on average slightly underweight with significantly lower BMI than controls, and give higher importance to appearance and thin body shape, and thus have a higher prevalence of partial-syndrome eating disorders than controls. Despite public concerns, research on eating disorders among professional fashion models is extremely scarce and results cannot be generalized to all models. The existing research fails to clarify the matter of eating disorders among fashion models and given the small number of studies, further research is needed.
Nergis, B.; Candan, C.; Sarısaltık, S.; Seneloglu, N.; Bozuk, R.; Amzayev, K.
The purpose of this study was to develop a slow fashion design model using the house of quality model (HOQ) to provide fashion designers a tool to improve the overall sustainability of denim jeans for Y generation consumers in Turkish market. In doing so, a survey was conducted to collect data on the design & performance expectations as well as the perception of slow fashion in design process of denim jeans of the targeted consumer group. The results showed that Y generation in the market gave the most importance to the sustainable production techniques when identifying slow fashion.
As one of the fastest-growing economies in the world, China is expected to become the largest fashion market in the world in a few years. As a result, more and more foreign companies have entered the Chinese market and the market has been more competitive than ever. This requires any fashion company to adopt a strategic development plan when entering the Chinese market. Ninja Finland Oy is a fashion jewellery company which offers a wide range of fashion jewellery and accessories. The comp...
Full Text Available The article deals with the concept of creative industries, fashion and its prevalence among consumer society. It analyzes the evolution of consumer culture and its relationship with fashion as well as fashion and style concept of value. The article represents theorist’s insight and reflection on the consumer society and the search for individuality in vogue. Also it reviews the role of fashion in the consumer society as diverse and complex phenomenon, which with the certain character and non-verbal language communicates about some of their values and their impact on the user and groups.
The fashion in Paris at the XVIIIth century knows deep changes. The clothing offer is illustrated by a fashion periodic press which is renews its proposals thanks to attractive engravings. Especially an iconic figure emerges from this Age of Lumières: the fashion trader and his most famous representing, Miss Rose Bertin, “minister of fashion” of the queen of France, Marie-Antoinette. The women were as funny birds which change plumage two or three times a day. The women passion for fashion cau...
Fashion Palace sügis-talviste kollektsioonide demonstratsioon Tallinna restoranis Gloria. Esmakordselt Eestis presenteeriti ehteid inglise disainerilt Stephen Websterilt. Korraldas Beatrice. 13 värvifotot
Nawaz, Mohsin; Saleem, Munawar
Abstract In fashion industry, customer demand is constantly changing. One of the main reasons is due to the time of delicate fashion awareness among the consumers, which has come into larger variety and frequent assortment changes. The changing trends in fashion industry allow researchers to get into the postponement strategy as a customized operation in order to focus on quality and flexibility. In today’s fashion market the key for success is to keep an eye on and react to the customer dema...
Kreutz, Dominique; Sinthuvanich, Chomdao; Bileck, Andrea; Janker, Lukas; Muqaku, Besnik; Slany, Astrid; Gerner, Christopher
Proteome profiling profoundly contributes to the understanding of cell response mechanisms to drug actions. Such knowledge may become a key to improve personalized medicine. In the present study, the effects of the natural remedy curcumin on breast cancer model systems were investigated. MCF-7, ZR-75-1 and TGF-β1 pretreated fibroblasts, mimicking cancer-associated fibroblasts (CAFs), were treated independently as well as in tumor cell/CAF co-cultures. Remarkably, co-culturing with CAF-like cells (CLCs) induced different proteome alterations in MCF-7 and ZR-75-1 cells, respectively. Curcumin significantly induced HMOX1 in single cell type models and co-cultures. However, other curcumin effects differed. In the MCF-7/CLC co-culture, curcumin significantly down-regulated RC3H1, a repressor of inflammatory signaling. In the ZR-75-1/CLC co-culture, curcumin significantly down-regulated PEG10, an anti-apoptotic protein, and induced RRAGA, a pro-apoptotic protein involved in TNF-alpha signaling. Furthermore, curcumin induced AKR1C2, an important enzyme for progesterone metabolism. None of these specific curcumin effects were observed in single cell type cultures. All high-resolution mass spectrometry data are available via ProteomeXchange with the identifier PXD008719. The present data demonstrate that curcumin induces proteome alterations, potentially accounting for its known antitumor effects, in a strongly context-dependent fashion. Better means to understand and potentially predict individual variations of drug effects are urgently required. The present proteome profiling study of curcumin effects demonstrates the massive impact of the cell microenvironment on cell responses to drug action. Co-culture models apparently provide more biologically relevant information regarding curcumin effects than single cell type cultures. Copyright © 2018. Published by Elsevier B.V.
Luis Fernando Hor-Meyll
Full Text Available Objective –To investigate the influence of the cognitive age of upper-middle class mature women regarding their attitude towards photographs of articles of clothing, as a result of their identification with the model wearing them. Design/methodology/approach – Experiment with a sample of 164 women, aged 55- 70 years old, living in Rio de Janeiro. The questionnaire was were based on scales found in the literature. Theoretical foundation Cognitive age (Barak; Schiffman, 1981; Leventhal, 1997; Szmigin; Carrigan, 2000; Wray; Hodges, 2008; Amaro; Johann; Meira, 2007; Birtwistle; Tsim, 2005; Moschis, 2003; Moschis; Mathur, 2006 Mature woman and fashion (Schewe, 1988; Slongo et al., 2009; Thomas; Peters, 2009; Moschis, Lee, & Mathur, 1997; Young; Miller, 2006; Wilkes, 1992; Facenda, 2000; Holmlund; Hagman; Polsa, 2010; Szmigin; Carrigan, 2000. Mature woman and advertising (Moschis, 2003; Venkatesh et al., 2010; Nam et al., 2007; Kozar; Damhorst, 2008; Araujo, Casotti, Da Silva, & Pessôa, 2015 Findings – The identification with the model was greater when the respondent perceived her as being close to her own cognitive age (F(1, 162 =615.87, p=0.000. The attitude toward the collection was more positive when the respondent perceived the model as being closer to her own cognitive age (F (2, 162 =1074.55, p=0.000. Practical implications –The degree of the consumer’s identification is greater when the model appears to be the same cognitive age as the consumer. When the consumer believes that the model is close to her own cognitive age, her attitude toward the displayed item is more positive.
Full Text Available Brand allows for market offer to be identified and differentiated from the competitive offers. The very essence of brand is based not only on potential sales figures, but on the philosophy that makes it posssible for a customer to identify with the brand. Faced with the plenty of market offers customers undoubtedly prefer well-known companies and brands, thus minimizing risk and time consuming activities of gaining futher knowledge concerning alternative offers. The consumers often wonder whether the branded goods are more worth from the other, similar goods without any famous trademarks. There are many questions and theories but only one is undeniable: one should never doubt the companies that invest great amount of assets, ideas, talents, love and risk, intend to risk previously stated items with bad design, services or products’ quality. Brand building in textile industry differs from branding of market offers targeting general public. Branding in textile industry requires more focused approach. Fashion companies are facing with bigger challenges when fighting to attract and keep new consumers who are offered new products and markets. In order to create strong brand, it is necessary to possess expert planning and long-term capital investment. Successful brand is actually an excellent product or service, with creatively designed and conducted marketing. Branding has become marketing’s priority, because successful brands achieve higher prices and gain over loyalty, and attract both consumers and financiers. Marketing agents of the successful 21st century brands must be extremely efficient in strategic brand management, which assumes implementation of marketing activities and programmes in order to build brands, as well as brand management to increase its value. Brands and its value must be regarded and recognized as strategic capital.
Full Text Available O texto aborda a presença da plumária na moda feminina do século XIX. No Brasil, houve produção de enfeites com penas, que não provinha dos índios. Havia manufaturas que forneciam mercadorias para as lojas da capital. Com base nos relatos de viajantes que passaram pelo Brasil no século XIX, e no material depositado no Museu Estatal de Etnologia de Munique, o autor enfatiza as manufaturas existentes no Brasil e a captura indiscriminada de determinadas espécies de aves para atender a demanda da sociedade da época. Desde o século passado, as aves de penas mais bonitas passam a rarear, o que começa a ser acompanhado pela preocupação com o controle da caça.The article focus on the presence of plumage in the 19th century fashion. In Brazil, the feathers for the production of feather pieces were not necessarily supplied by Indians. There were manufacturers that supplied the stores in the country's capital with these pieces. Based on travelers' reports on nineteenth-century Brazil as well as on material from the State Museum of Ethnology in Munich, the author emphasizes the indiscriminate capture of some species of birds in order to face the demand of society at the time. In the 19th century, the most beautifully-feathered birds progressively began to become rare, which naturally brought forth the concern with uncontrolled bird capture.
Lim, Chin Tat; Goodman, Stuart B; Huddleston, James I; Harris, Alex H S; Bhowmick, Subhrojyoti; Maloney, William J; Amanatullah, Derek F
Smoking is associated with early postoperative complications, increased length of hospital stay, and an increased risk of revision after total knee arthroplasty (TKA). However, the effect of smoking on time to revision TKA is unknown. A total of 619 primary TKAs referred to an academic tertiary center for revision TKA were retrospectively stratified according to the patient smoking status. Smoking status was then analyzed for associations with time to revision TKA using a Chi square test. The association was also analyzed according to the indication for revision TKA. Smokers (37/41, 90%) have an increased risk of earlier revision for any reason compared to non-smokers (274/357, 77%, p=0.031). Smokers (37/41, 90%) have an increased risk of earlier revision for any reason compared to ex-smokers (168/221, 76%, p=0.028). Subgroup analysis did not reveal a difference in indication for revision TKA (p>0.05). Smokers are at increased risk of earlier revision TKA when compared to non-smokers and ex-smokers. The risk for ex-smokers was similar to that of non-smokers. Smoking appears to have an all-or-none effect on earlier revision TKA as patients who smoked more did not have higher risk of early revision TKA. These results highlight the need for clinicians to urge patients not to begin smoking and encourage smokers to quit smoking prior to primary TKA. Copyright © 2017 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.
Gundlund, Anna; Fosbøl, Emil Loldrup; Kim, Sunghee
BACKGROUND: We addressed whether patients with a family history of atrial fibrillation (AF) were diagnosed as having AF earlier in life, were more symptomatic, and had worse outcomes compared with those without a family history of AF. METHODS: Using the ORBIT-AF, we compared symptoms and disease...
Coenen, T; Lundgren, J; Lazarus, Jeff
The articles in this supplement were developed from a recent pan-European conference entitled 'HIV in Europe 2007: Working together for optimal testing and earlier care', which took place on 26-27 November in Brussels, Belgium. The conference, organized by a multidisciplinary group of experts rep...
van Tilborg, Theodora C.; Broekmans, Frank J.; Pijpe, Anouk; Schrijver, Lieske H.; Mooij, Thea M.; Oosterwijk, Jan C.; Verhoef, Senno; Garcia, Encarna B. Gomez; van Zelst-Stams, Wendy A.; Adank, Muriel A.; van Asperen, Christi J.; van Doorn, Helena C.; van Os, Theo A.; Bos, Anna M.; Rookus, Matti A.; Ausems, Margreet G.
Objective: It has been hypothesized that BRCA1/2 mutation carriers have an earlier age at natural menopause (ANM), although to date findings are inconclusive. This study assessed the influence of BRCA mutation status on ANM, and aimed to explore the reasons of inconsistency in the literature.
Chenevez, Jérôme; Beckmann, V.; Kuulkers, E.
The recently reported outburst from the supergiant fast X-ray transient XTE J1739-302/IGR J17391-3021 (ATEL #1466) began already about five hours earlier than the Swift/BAT trigger on 2008-04-08. The INTEGRAL/JEM-X monitor detected a flare starting at 16:18 (UTC) on the same day during recent Gal...
McGrath, Rachel T; Glastras, Sarah J; Hocking, Samantha; Fulcher, Gregory R
The use of metformin in gestational diabetes is safe and effective, yet some women require additional insulin therapy to achieve glycaemic targets. We found a significant association between earlier gestational age at initiation of metformin therapy and the necessity for supplemental insulin in women treated with metformin during pregnancy. Copyright © 2016 Elsevier Ireland Ltd. All rights reserved.
Abrams, Joseph Y; Belay, Ermias D; Uehara, Ritei; Maddox, Ryan A; Schonberger, Lawrence B; Nakamura, Yosikazu
To assess if observed higher observed risks of cardiac complications for patients with Kawasaki disease (KD) treated earlier may reflect bias due to confounding from initial disease severity, as opposed to any negative effect of earlier treatment. We used data from Japanese nationwide KD surveys from 1997 to 2004. Receipt of additional intravenous immunoglobulin (IVIG) (data available all years) or any additional treatment (available for 2003-2004) were assessed as proxies for initial disease severity. We determined associations between earlier or later IVIG treatment (defined as receipt of IVIG on days 1-4 vs days 5-10 of illness) and cardiac complications by stratifying by receipt of additional treatment or by using logistic modeling to control for the effect of receiving additional treatment. A total of 48 310 patients with KD were included in the analysis. In unadjusted analysis, earlier IVIG treatment was associated with a higher risk for 4 categories of cardiac complications, including all major cardiac complications (risk ratio, 1.10; 95% CI, 1.06-1.15). Stratifying by receipt of additional treatment removed this association, and earlier IVIG treatment became protective against all major cardiac complications when controlling for any additional treatment in logistic regressions (OR, 0.90; 95% CI, 0.80-1.00). Observed higher risks of cardiac complications among patients with KD receiving IVIG treatment on days 1-4 of the illness are most likely due to underlying higher initial disease severity, and patients with KD should continue to be treated with IVIG as early as possible. Published by Elsevier Inc.
Ehrsam, Melanie Michelle
The fast-fashion industry has been criticized along the years for its lack of environmental and social ethics. In this frame we find H&M, the world’s second largest fashion retailer. The Swedish fast-fashion retailer has set its goal towards making fashion sustainable and has launched in 2011 its sustainable clothing line “Conscious”. The present dissertation aims to discover the potential of sustainable fashion in changing consumers’ attitude towards the brand. For this matter...
The aim of this master thesis is to define fast fashion and fast fashion retailing, and describe specifics of their business activities with deep focus on the Czech market. The theoretical part reviews literature dealing with international strategy and management and fashion and fast fashion retailing. The empirical part then focuses on real-life business cases. In order to illustrate the behaviour of fast fashion retailers on the Czech market, a case study method is employed. The attention i...
Claudia E. Henninger
Full Text Available This article focuses on eco-labels from the point of view of consumers and experts/owner-managers of micro-organisations. The analysis maps the 15 most common standardisations within the UK’s fashion industry and elaborates on their commonalities and differences, before exploring the perceptions held by both consumers and micro-companies. This paper presents preliminary findings of a wider research project with emphasis on the potential for future research and marketing implications. The study is interpretative in nature and provides detailed results that contribute to an understudied area.
Disser, Jay; Arthur, Edward; Lambert, Janine
This report examines a preliminary design for a pebble bed fluoride salt-cooled high temperature reactor (PB-FHR) concept, assessing it from an international safeguards perspective. Safeguards features are defined, in a preliminary fashion, and suggestions are made for addressing further nuclear materials accountancy needs.
Ashley, Vera Bruce
The purpose of this study was to explore the efficacy, benefits and student perceptions of using Internet videoconferencing and a web camera to connect college and university fashion students with apparel industry professionals. A total of 70 college and university fashion students, three instructors, and three apparel industry professionals…
Langkjær, Michael Alexander
Anmeldelsesartikel (review article) overfjorten bidrag i antologien Fashion in Film, som belyser forskellige sider af forholdet mellem mode og film.Fashion in Film er redigeret af Adrienne Munich (Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2011, 360 sider, ISBN 978-0-253-22299-2)....
Mackinney-Valentin, Maria; Teilmann-Lock, Stina
. And the luxury fashion industry has historically benefited from mass-market as a way of stimulating consumers’ appetite for innovation. The article explores the presence of “copy chic” in luxury fashion as an ambiguous celebration of the conspicuously inauthentic through a study of luxury version...
Essel, Osuanyi Quaicoo; Opoku-Mensah, Isaac
This article examines how dress fashion in outdoor sculptures of the 1990s in the Accra cityscape accentuated feminist activism, sensitised child right campaigns, and encouraged girl-child education in support of governmental efforts and activism of civil society organisations in Ghana. It gives attention to how dress fashion of the time was used…
Bandinelli, Romeo; Rinaldi, Rinaldo; Rossi, Monica; Terzi, Sergio
This paper investigates how companies in the fashion industry organize, plan and perform their New Product Development process (NPD). The results have been achieved through an empirical study carried out by the authors with the support of the GeCo Observatory, an Italian research initiative launched in 2012. This paper shows the details of eight selected case studies from the Italian fashion industry.
The thesis is divided into two parts. The firts part deals with theoretical description of fashion merchandising, including specification of visual merchandising, sensoring merchandising and other aspects of shopping environment. The second part is dedicated to description of practical application of those principles in a selected shop of an international fashion retailer.
Moors, A.; Reyes-Ruiz, R.
After a brief discussion about the emergence of Islamic fashion as a concept and how this category unsettles some of the established truths of fashion theory, this article turns to the move towards ‘Islamic fashion’ in the global South. There it is both part of the wider Islamic revival movement and
Anthropologists are known to work in contexts wider than academic settings, actively engaging with people from other disciplines and professions. The lecturers in the Fashion Institute where we presently work are challenged to integrate the practical knowledge and skills originating from the fashion
Boujarzadeh, Behnam; Turcan, Romeo V.; Dholakia, Nikhilesh
In this paper we explore the emergence and evolution of industries. Specifically we investigate the episodes and epochs in the emergence and evolution of Danish Textile and Fashion Industry. We collected historical data on Danish Textile and Fashion Industry between 1945 and 2015. We employ radar...
Oliver, Kimberly L.
Explored how fashion helped urban adolescent girls desire and create normalized images of the perfect woman, examining their stories about their bodies and how their stories and images empowered them to become healthy women. Data from group discussions, journal writing, freewriting, and written stories indicated that fashion taught girls to desire…
Gwozdz, Wencke; Nielsen, Kristian S.; Gupta, Shipra
The present paper unfolds the conceptual distinction between style and fashion orientation – two trait-like orientations of clothing consumption. We relate both concepts with subjective well-being and assume a higher subjective well-being for consumers with a higher style orientation than a higher...... fashion orientation. These assumptions were tested using survey data from four countries - Germany, Poland, Sweden, and the United States - with approximately 1,000 respondents per country. Employing structural equation modelling, we found that style orientation was stronger related to subjective well......-being than fashion orientation. We further found that materialism mediated the relationship between fashion and style orientation and subjective well-being and that fashion orientation was statistically significantly stronger related to materialism than style orientation. When including materialism...
Full Text Available The textile and clothing industry generates much pollution and consumes a large amount of resources. Improper uses and disposal of clothing products make the problems much more severe. Fast fashion products shorten the valid lifecycle and generate more waste than regular clothing products. Considering the features of fashion products, a system of a rent-based closed-loop supply chain is developed to improve the sustainability of fashion products. The supply chain processes (fashion design and manufacturing, laundry, logistics and disposal, the operations management issues (inventory management, closed-loop logistics, human-clothing matching, booking system and the rental pricing and the sustainability promotion aspects (customization, responsive system, culture and policy aspects are investigated by devising sustainable strategies. The rationalities of the developed system and strategies are reviewed and elucidated in detail. The results may contribute to building sustainable closed-loop fashion supply chains, the related information systems and operational and managerial mechanisms.
Elif Buğra Kuzu Demir
Full Text Available As the technology is integrated into different disciplines, we witness how powerful it can be. Rather than standing in isolation, technology changes the nature of the field it arrives in. Wearable technologies in fashion design education is a good example for this. Wearable technology defined as lightweight, easy portable and wearable smart devices that have sensors and computing capabilities. The structure of wearable technologies has brought a new trend to fashion design area. Fashion design, as known to be a very dynamic application area, has already accepted the issue and started using the most powerful examples of wearable technologies already. However, although the stages are using wearable technologies, the schools that graduate fashion designers of the future are far beyond the capacity of the stages. It is therefore; this paper brings suggestions for the integration of technology into fashion design departments in Turkey and while doing this it tries to be country specific.
H. Noppers, E.; Keizer, K.; Bockarjova, M.; Steg, L.
We investigated motivations of potential earlier and later adopters for adopting sustainable innovations. A large questionnaire study revealed that potential earlier adopters of innovative cars evaluated the symbolic attributes of electric cars, but not the instrumental and environmental attributes,
Conclusions: The decline of (18F-FDG uptake in the olfactory bulb occurs earlier than other incidents, serving as an earlier in vivo biological marker of AD in 5XFAD mice and making early diagnosis of AD possibly.
Brook, Judith S.; Zhang, Chenshu; Brook, David W.; Leukefeld, Carl G.
This longitudinal study examined the association between psychosocial antecedents, including illicit drug use, and adult compulsive buying (CB) across a 29-year time period from mean age 14 to mean age 43. Participants originally came from a community-based random sample of residents in two upstate New York counties. Multivariate linear regression analysis was used to study the relationship between the participant’s earlier psychosocial antecedents and adult CB in the fifth decade of life. The results of the multivariate linear regression analyses showed that gender (female), earlier adult impulse buying (IB), depressive mood, illicit drug use, and concurrent ADHD symptoms were all significantly associated with adult CB at mean age 43. It is important that clinicians treating CB in adults should consider the role of drug use, symptoms of ADHD, IB, depression, and family factors in CB. PMID:26165963
The objective of this paper is to provide practical assistance on judging the safety of a nuclear power plant, on the basis of a comparison with current safety standards and operational practices. For nuclear power plants built to earlier standards for which there are questions about the adequacy of the maintenance of the plant design and operational practices, a safety review against current standards and practices can be considered a high priority. The objective of reviewing nuclear power plants built to earlier standards against current standards and practices is to determine whether there are any deviations which would have an impact on plant safety. The safety significance of the issues identified should be judged according to their implications for plant design and operation in terms of basic safety concepts such as defence in depth and safety culture. In addition, this paper provides assistance on the prioritization of corrective measures and their implementation so as to approach an acceptable level of safety
Brook, Judith S; Zhang, Chenshu; Brook, David W; Leukefeld, Carl G
This longitudinal study examined the association between psychosocial antecedents, including illicit drug use, and adult compulsive buying (CB) across a 29-year time period from mean age 14 to mean age 43. Participants originally came from a community-based random sample of residents in two upstate New York counties. Multivariate linear regression analysis was used to study the relationship between the participant's earlier psychosocial antecedents and adult CB in the fifth decade of life. The results of the multivariate linear regression analyses showed that gender (female), earlier adult impulse buying (IB), depressive mood, illicit drug use, and concurrent ADHD symptoms were all significantly associated with adult CB at mean age 43. It is important that clinicians treating CB in adults should consider the role of drug use, symptoms of ADHD, IB, depression, and family factors in CB. Copyright © 2015 Elsevier Ireland Ltd. All rights reserved.
Farahmand, Alireza; AghaKouchak, Amir; Teixeira, Joao
Each year, droughts cause significant economic and agricultural losses across the world. The early warning and onset detection of drought is of particular importance for effective agriculture and water resource management. Previous studies show that the Standard Precipitation Index (SPI), a measure of precipitation deficit, detects drought onset earlier than other indicators. Here we show that satellite-based near surface air relative humidity data can further improve drought onset detection and early warning. This paper introduces the Standardized Relative Humidity Index (SRHI) based on the NASA Atmospheric Infrared Sounder (AIRS) observations. The results indicate that the SRHI typically detects the drought onset earlier than the SPI. While the AIRS mission was not originally designed for drought monitoring, we show that its relative humidity data offers a new and unique avenue for drought monitoring and early warning. We conclude that the early warning aspects of SRHI may have merit for integration into current drought monitoring systems.
Ates, Ihsan; Kaplan, Mustafa; Demirci, Selim; Altiparmak, Emin
Hepatocellular carcinoma (HCC) is the most common malignant tumor of the liver. Hepatitis B virus infection is one of the most important etilogical factors of HCC. In this case report, a patient with HCC previously infected and having ongoing immunity against hepatitis B virus will be discussed. Ates I, Kaplan M, Demirci S, Altiparmak E. A Hepatocellular Carcinoma Case in a Patient Who had Immunity to Hepatitis B Virus Earlier. Euroasian J Hepato-Gastroenterol 2016;6(1):82-83.
Stilp, Christian E; Assgari, Ashley A
Speech perception is heavily influenced by surrounding sounds. When spectral properties differ between earlier (context) and later (target) sounds, this can produce spectral contrast effects (SCEs) that bias perception of later sounds. For example, when context sounds have more energy in low-F 1 frequency regions, listeners report more high-F 1 responses to a target vowel, and vice versa. SCEs have been reported using various approaches for a wide range of stimuli, but most often, large spectral peaks were added to the context to bias speech categorization. This obscures the lower limit of perceptual sensitivity to spectral properties of earlier sounds, i.e., when SCEs begin to bias speech categorization. Listeners categorized vowels (/ɪ/-/ɛ/, Experiment 1) or consonants (/d/-/g/, Experiment 2) following a context sentence with little spectral amplification (+1 to +4 dB) in frequency regions known to produce SCEs. In both experiments, +3 and +4 dB amplification in key frequency regions of the context produced SCEs, but lesser amplification was insufficient to bias performance. This establishes a lower limit of perceptual sensitivity where spectral differences across sounds can bias subsequent speech categorization. These results are consistent with proposed adaptation-based mechanisms that potentially underlie SCEs in auditory perception. Recent sounds can change what speech sounds we hear later. This can occur when the average frequency composition of earlier sounds differs from that of later sounds, biasing how they are perceived. These "spectral contrast effects" are widely observed when sounds' frequency compositions differ substantially. We reveal the lower limit of these effects, as +3 dB amplification of key frequency regions in earlier sounds was enough to bias categorization of the following vowel or consonant sound. Speech categorization being biased by very small spectral differences across sounds suggests that spectral contrast effects occur
David G. Weissman
Discussion: The regions that demonstrated significant positive linear relationships between the number of adolescent years using substances and connectivity with NAcc are nodes in the right frontoparietal network, which is central to cognitive control. The coupling of reward and cognitive control networks may be a mechanism through which earlier onset of substance use is related to brain function over time, a trajectory that may be implicated in subsequent substance use disorders.
Full Text Available We study a compensation plan problem in the fashion retailing industry, which involves a risk-neutral fashion retailer and a risk-neutral salesperson, in a two-stage game framework with asymmetric information. In the first stage, the fashion retailer provides a menu of compensation plans to the salesperson who decides which plan to sign based on his superior market demand information. Confronted with the asymmetric demand information, the fashion retailer could observe market information from the salesperson's response by designing a menu of compensation plans rather than a single one to the salesperson. In the second stage, the fashion retailer then makes production decision and the salesperson determines his selling effort. We consider both adverse selection and moral hazard. We adopt the quota-based plan to derive the fashion retailer’s optimal compensation plan design and the salesperson's best response. We emphasize the impact of the quota level on the system outcomes. The results reveal that a higher quota level is disadvantageous to the fashion retailer but advantageous to the salespersons.
Full Text Available Fashion industry is one of the most vibrant and creative sector in Europe. Having over 5 million people directly employed in the fashion value chain and 850,000 companies established, this industry provides an important contribution to the EU economy with an annual turnover of EUR 525 billion. Despite the global competition, European retailers have managed to be competitive by moving to high- added value products, serving niche markets and investing on technology and novel ecommerce tools. Fashion is in a transition phase where digital brands and eshops try to engage more shoppers, provide unique experiences and increase revenues. However, conversion rates are still low, competition is fierce and novel products and services are required in order to capture the attention of the consumer. More customer behaviors regarding fashion preferences of the users are needed and new advertising techniques have to be implemented in the sector. In this paper, the market trends regarding clothing and eCommerce in Europe are provided. In addition, a market research is presented that reveals the need for a social fashion platform in Greece coupled with the expectations that an shopper has for a fashion aggregator. The basic functionalities of Fashionphoria, a novel social fashion platform are presented and the benefits for the fashionistas and the brands are outlined.
Lucky Lhaura Van FC
Full Text Available AbstrakPenelitian ini bertujuan untuk mengetahui pengaruh persepsi konsumen tentang resiko terhadap keputusan pembelian produk fashion toko online ,kedua pengaruh media e-Commerce terhadap keputusan pembelian produk fashion.. pengaruh persepsi konsumen tentang resiko dan kualitas pelayanan secara bersama-sama terhadap keputusan pembelian produk fashion toko online , penelitian ini termasuk penelitian kuantitatif. Populasi penelitian adalah mahasiswa/wi dan dosen fakultas Ilmu Komputer yang pernah melakukan pembelian online. Pengumpulan data dilakukan dengan angket ,dimana analisis data menggunakan metode non probability sampling yang telah didapat sebanyak 110 sampel penelitian, analisis data menggunakan fitur cronbach’s alfa.Hasil dari pPeneltian ini adalah sSemakin rendah resiko yang dipersepsikan oleh konsumen, maka semakin tinggi tingkat keputusan konsumen untuk membeli fashion secara online. Semakin berkualitas pelayanan e-commerce yang disediakan para pengelola situs belanja fashion online, maka semakin tinggi tingkat keputusan konsumen untuk membeli fashion secara online. Rendahnya persepsi resiko dan tingginya kualitas pelayanan elektronik secara bersamaan akan mampu meningkatkan keputusan konsumen untuk membeli fashion secara online. Kata Kunci : Persepsi Resiko, kualitas e-commerce, metode non probability sampling, cronbach’s alfa AbstractThis research is perceived risk and quality of e-commerce on fashion product online buying decision in faculty of Computer Science . This study includes quantitative research. The population of research is students and faculty lecturer of Computer Science who ever made online purchasing. Data collection is done by questionnaire, where data analysis using non probabity sampling method has been obtained as many as 110 research samples, data analysis using cronbach's alpha feature. Result from Peneltian This is the lower the risk perceived by the consumer, the higher the level of consumer
Ersun, A. Nur; Yıldırım, Figen
The purpose of this study is to better understand the interest of university students in fashion products and to ascertain how different social variables explain variance in their brand sensitivity.Fashion happens to be a relevant and powerful force in our lives. At every level of society, people greatly care about the way they look, which affects both their self –esteem and the way other people interacr with them. For young adults wearing fashion brands seems to be a way of feeling adequate....
Liu, Mengqi; Bi, Wenjie; Chen, Xiaohong; Li, Guo
We study a fashion retailer’s dynamic pricing problem in which consumers present reference effect and memory window. Based on the theory of Baucells et al. (2011), we propose a new reference-price updating mechanism in fashion and textile (FT) industry where consumers have a bounded memory window and anchor on the first and most recent price in any memory window. Moreover, we study the impacts of this mechanism on optimal pricing policy for a retailer selling multiple fashion-like products an...
This research attempted to analysis the impact of self-identity, consumers attitude , and subjective norm towards intention to buy hijab fashion product. The data were gathered by using self-adminitrated questionaire to 235 respondents which came from higher education student girls. The result revealed that self-identity has a positive and significant impact towards intention to buy hijab fashion. Furthermore, it also found that subjective norm affected the aspect of individual intention to buy hijab fashion significantly as well. Keywords : Hijab, Self-identity, Attitude, Subjective norm
Ræbild, Ulla; Bang, Anne Louise
The fashion industry currently undergoes radical change showing signs of an overall sustainable paradigm shift. This paper investigates how the fashion collection, as a particular design framework, might be reconfigured as a strategic driver for garment longevity furthering sustainable fashion...... design. The study builds on a case study of a company offering a subscription service of baby clothing. We explore in details if and how they use the collection as a strategic design tool. In the analysis and discussion, it is clarified that the feedback from users, manufacturers and the garments play...
Ræbild, Ulla; Bang, Anne Louise
The fashion industry is currently undergoing a radical change towards an overall sustainable paradigm shift. This paper investigates how the fashion collection, as a particular design framework, might be reconfigured as a strategic driver for garment longevity furthering sustainable fashion design....... The study builds on a case study of a company offering a subscription service for baby clothing, exploring in detail whether and how the collection is used as a strategic design tool. In the analysis and discussion, feedback from users, manufacturers and the garments themselves plays a crucial role...
The point of departure for this article is an astonishment at the recent increase in elderly women in fashion and beauty ads, and the question of what value this kind of photography may attribute to the ageing body and face in a visual culture whose association between youth and beauty forms one...... of the most influential constructions of ageism in Western culture. To attempt to answer this question, the article discusses the relationship between beauty, time and the ageing face, especially in beauty and fashion ads. The 2015 spring ad campaign for the luxury fashion brand Céline, which featured...
Yohana, Nova; Adliandri, Aidil Emmil
Nowadays, trend fashion has been reach the Muslim dress that in recent years was ogled by some Indonesian designer. So now appear some trends, one of them is hijab syari. If looking at the phenomenon in social media instagram that show the existence of the people who wear hijab syari, it causes the appearence of the term fashion icon hijab syari. The activities such as review look, endorser, life style trensetter, and dakwah wass also done by fashion icon hijab syari in Pekanbaru. The...
Sullivan, Rachel T; Frommelt, Peter C; Hill, Garick D
The association between Down syndrome and pulmonary hypertension could contribute to more severe pulmonary regurgitation after tetralogy of Fallot repair and possibly earlier pulmonary valve replacement. We compared cardiac magnetic resonance measures of pulmonary regurgitation and right ventricular dilation as well as timing of pulmonary valve replacement between those with and without Down syndrome after tetralogy of Fallot repair. Review of our surgical database from 2000 to 2015 identified patients with tetralogy of Fallot with pulmonary stenosis. Those with Down syndrome were compared to those without. The primary outcome of interest was time from repair to pulmonary valve replacement. Secondary outcomes included pulmonary regurgitation and indexed right ventricular volume on cardiac magnetic resonance imaging. The cohort of 284 patients included 35 (12%) with Down syndrome. Transannular patch repair was performed in 210 (74%). Down syndrome showed greater degree of pulmonary regurgitation (55 ± 14 vs. 37 ± 16%, p = 0.01) without a significantly greater rate of right ventricular dilation (p = 0.09). In multivariable analysis, Down syndrome (HR 2.3, 95% CI 1.2-4.5, p = 0.02) and transannular patch repair (HR 5.5, 95% CI 1.7-17.6, p = 0.004) were significant risk factors for valve replacement. Those with Down syndrome had significantly lower freedom from valve replacement (p = 0.03). Down syndrome is associated with an increased degree of pulmonary regurgitation and earlier pulmonary valve replacement after tetralogy of Fallot repair. These patients require earlier assessment by cardiac magnetic resonance imaging to determine timing of pulmonary valve replacement and evaluation for and treatment of preventable causes of pulmonary hypertension.
Lawrence, David Wyndham; Richards, Doug; Comper, Paul; Hutchison, Michael G
To determine whether earlier time to initiation of aerobic exercise following acute concussion is associated with time to full return to (1) sport and (2) school or work. A retrospective stratified propensity score survival analysis of acute (≤14 days) concussion was used to determine whether time (days) to initiation of aerobic exercise post-concussion was associated with, both, time (days) to full return to (1) sport and (2) school or work. A total of 253 acute concussions [median (IQR) age, 17.0 (15.0-20.0) years; 148 (58.5%) males] were included in this study. Multivariate Cox regression models identified that earlier time to aerobic exercise was associated with faster return to sport and school/work adjusting for other covariates, including quintile propensity strata. For each successive day in delay to initiation of aerobic exercise, individuals had a less favourable recovery trajectory. Initiating aerobic exercise at 3 and 7 days following injury was associated with a respective 36.5% (HR, 0.63; 95% CI, 0.53-0.76) and 73.2% (HR, 0.27; 95% CI, 0.16-0.45) reduced probability of faster full return to sport compared to within 1 day; and a respective 45.9% (HR, 0.54; 95% CI, 0.44-0.66) and 83.1% (HR, 0.17; 95% CI, 0.10-0.30) reduced probability of faster full return to school/work. Additionally, concussion history, symptom severity, LOC deleteriously influenced concussion recovery. Earlier initiation of aerobic exercise was associated with faster full return to sport and school or work. This study provides greater insight into the benefits and safety of aerobic exercise within the first week of the injury.
Gerretsen, Philip; Voineskos, Aristotle N; Graff-Guerrero, Ariel; Menon, Mahesh; Pollock, Bruce G; Mamo, David C; Mulsant, Benoit H; Rajji, Tarek K
Impaired insight into illness in schizophrenia is associated with illness severity and deficits in premorbid intellectual function, executive function, and memory. A previous study of patients aged 60 years and older found that illness severity and premorbid intellectual function accounted for variance in insight impairment. As such, we aimed to test whether similar relationships would be observed in earlier life. A retrospective analysis was performed on 1 large sample of participants (n = 171) with a DSM-IV-TR diagnosis of schizophrenia aged 19 to 79 years acquired from 2 studies: (1) a psychosocial intervention trial for older persons with schizophrenia (June 2008 to May 2014) and (2) a diffusion tensor imaging and genetics study of psychosis across the life span (February 2007 to December 2013). We assessed insight into illness using the Positive and Negative Syndrome Scale (PANSS) item G12 and explored its relationship to illness severity (PANSS total modified), premorbid intellectual function (Wechsler Test of Adult Reading [WTAR]), and cognition. Insight impairment was more severe in later life (≥ 60 years) than in earlier years (t = -3.75, P insight was explained by PANSS total modified (Exp[B] = 1.070, P insight, they did not independently contribute to its variance. However, the relationships between impaired insight and illness severity and between impaired insight and cognition, particularly working memory, were stronger in later life than in earlier life. These results suggest an opportunity for intervention may exist with cognitive-enhancing neurostimulation or medications to improve insight into illness in schizophrenia across the life span. Original study registered on ClinicalTrials.gov (identifier: NCT00832845). © Copyright 2017 Physicians Postgraduate Press, Inc.
Smith, Shawn H; Steenhof, Karen; McClure, Christopher J W; Heath, Julie A
Warming temperatures cause temporal changes in growing seasons and prey abundance that drive earlier breeding by birds, especially dietary specialists within homogeneous habitat. Less is known about how generalists respond to climate-associated shifts in growing seasons or prey phenology, which may occur at different rates across land cover types. We studied whether breeding phenology of a generalist predator, the American kestrel (Falco sparverius), was associated with shifts in growing seasons and, presumably, prey abundance, in a mosaic of non-irrigated shrub/grasslands and irrigated crops/pastures. We examined the relationship between remotely-sensed normalized difference vegetation index (NDVI) and abundance of small mammals that, with insects, constitute approximately 93% of kestrel diet biomass. We used NDVI to estimate the start of the growing season (SoGS) in irrigated and non-irrigated lands from 1992 to 2015 and tested whether either estimate of annual SoGS predicted the timing of kestrel nesting. Finally, we examined relationships among irrigated SoGS, weather and crop planting. NDVI was a useful proxy for kestrel prey because it predicted small mammal abundance and past studies showed that NDVI predicts insect abundance. NDVI-estimated SoGS advanced significantly in irrigated lands (β = -1·09 ± 0·30 SE) but not in non-irrigated lands (β = -0·57 ± 0·53). Average date of kestrel nesting advanced 15 days in the past 24 years and was positively associated with the SoGS in irrigated lands, but not the SoGS in non-irrigated lands. Advanced SoGS in irrigated lands was related to earlier planting of crops after relatively warm winters, which were more common in recent years. Despite different patterns of SoGS change between land cover types, kestrel nesting phenology shifted with earlier prey availability in irrigated lands. Kestrels may preferentially track prey in irrigated lands over non-irrigated lands because of higher quality prey on
Oras, Paola; Thernström Blomqvist, Ylva; Hedberg Nyqvist, Kerstin; Gradin, Maria; Rubertsson, Christine; Hellström-Westas, Lena; Funkquist, Eva-Lotta
This study investigated the effects of skin-to-skin contact on breastfeeding attainment, duration and infant growth in preterm infants, as this has not been sufficiently explored. A prospective longitudinal study on Kangaroo mother care was carried out, comprising 104 infants with a gestational age of 28 + 0 to 33 + 6 and followed up to one year of corrected age. Parents and staff recorded the duration of skin-to skin contact during the stay in the neonatal intensive care unit (NICU). Medical data were collected through patient records, and follow-up questionnaires were filled in by parents. The 53 infants who attained full breastfeeding in the NICU did so at a median (range) of 35 + 0 (32 + 1 to 37 + 5) weeks of postmenstrual age, and skin-to-skin contact was the only factor that influenced earlier attainment in the regression analysis (R(2) 0.215 p skin-to-skin contact during the stay in the NICU did not affect the duration of breastfeeding or infant growth after discharge. Furthermore, infant growth was not affected by the feeding strategy of exclusive, partial breastfeeding or no breastfeeding. A longer daily duration of skin-to-skin contact in the NICU was associated with earlier attainment of exclusive breastfeeding. ©2016 Foundation Acta Paediatrica. Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.
Li Fang; Liu Xingdang; Lu Zhihui; Liu Congjin
Objective: To investigate the difference between the early phases and delay phase of three-phase bone scintigraphy on hemiplegic patients with earlier complex regional pain syndrome (CRPS). Methods: Twenty-nine stroke patients with hemiplegia complicating CRPS received three-phase bone scintigraphy after intravenous injection of 99 Tc m -methylene diphosphonate (MDP). The region of interest (ROI) technique was used to obtain the radioactive counts of involved joints and contralateral sites on wrists, metacarpophalangeal, proximal interphalangeal and distal interphalangeal joints. The total counts of these four sites in each patient were then obtained and the total uptake ratios of involved joints/contralateral joints for each phase were calculated to compare the difference among the three phases. Wilcoxon test and ANOVA were used in data analyses. Results: The involved joints of hemiplegic side displayed higher tracer uptake. There were significant differences of the radioactive counts between involved joints and uninvolved ones in the perfusion, pool and delay phase (Wilcoxon test, Z: -4.73 to -2.10, P<0.05). There was no significant difference of total uptake ratios of involved joints/contralateral joints among the three phases (ANOVA, F = 0. 807, P < 0.05). Conclusions: Due to higher bone seeking agent accumulation on three-phase bone scintigraphy, both early phases and delay phase imaging showed similar value in stroke patients with hemiplegia complicating earlier CRPS. (authors)
Weissman, David G; Schriber, Roberta A; Fassbender, Catherine; Atherton, Olivia; Krafft, Cynthia; Robins, Richard W; Hastings, Paul D; Guyer, Amanda E
Early adolescent onset of substance use is a robust predictor of future substance use disorders. We examined the relation between age of substance use initiation and resting state functional connectivity (RSFC) of the core reward processing (nucleus accumbens; NAcc) to cognitive control (prefrontal cortex; PFC) brain networks. Adolescents in a longitudinal study of Mexican-origin youth reported their substance use annually from ages 10 to 16 years. At age 16, 69 adolescents participated in a resting state functional magnetic resonance imaging scan. Seed-based correlational analyses were conducted using regions of interest in bilateral NAcc. The earlier that adolescents initiated substance use, the stronger the connectivity between bilateral NAcc and right dorsolateral PFC, right dorsomedial PFC, right pre-supplementary motor area, right inferior parietal lobule, and left medial temporal gyrus. The regions that demonstrated significant positive linear relationships between the number of adolescent years using substances and connectivity with NAcc are nodes in the right frontoparietal network, which is central to cognitive control. The coupling of reward and cognitive control networks may be a mechanism through which earlier onset of substance use is related to brain function over time, a trajectory that may be implicated in subsequent substance use disorders. Copyright © 2015 The Authors. Published by Elsevier Ltd.. All rights reserved.
Ffrench-Constant, Richard H; Somers-Yeates, Robin; Bennie, Jonathan; Economou, Theodoros; Hodgson, David; Spalding, Adrian; McGregor, Peter K
The ecological impact of night-time lighting is of concern because of its well-demonstrated effects on animal behaviour. However, the potential of light pollution to change plant phenology and its corresponding knock-on effects on associated herbivores are less clear. Here, we test if artificial lighting can advance the timing of budburst in trees. We took a UK-wide 13 year dataset of spatially referenced budburst data from four deciduous tree species and matched it with both satellite imagery of night-time lighting and average spring temperature. We find that budburst occurs up to 7.5 days earlier in brighter areas, with the relationship being more pronounced for later-budding species. Excluding large urban areas from the analysis showed an even more pronounced advance of budburst, confirming that the urban 'heat-island' effect is not the sole cause of earlier urban budburst. Similarly, the advance in budburst across all sites is too large to be explained by increases in temperature alone. This dramatic advance of budburst illustrates the need for further experimental investigation into the impact of artificial night-time lighting on plant phenology and subsequent species interactions. As light pollution is a growing global phenomenon, the findings of this study are likely to be applicable to a wide range of species interactions across the world. © 2016 The Authors.
Full Text Available This article discusses the concept Apparel in Islamic education. This was currently a lot of variety of fashion in dress. Although the general function of clothes was a human genitalia cover and protect the body from the heat of the sun. However hijab at this time not just cover the nakedness, but rather as a fashion style that became a common thing now was infecting the womenfolk including Muslim. Ranging from clothes, pants, until hijab began in innovation so as to attract the eye. Although it is not yet represent the shape and fashion model/standard clothes, but felt able to express Islamic education in the dressing (hijab and a fashion model/Islamic clothing. Obviously keep on religious norms, ethical and moral teachings. Substance of clothing in Islam is polite in accordance with the values of Islamic Education.
Fashion retail is recognised for its strong capabilities in product innovation, while also having the potential to improve the governance of technology-based process innovation. This chapter proposes a model perspective in management of technology and innovation, including special requirements...... of fashion retailing. In particular, this chapter discusses the context of fashion retailing understood as product and brand-based characteristics. A case study-based methodology is then used to guide an analysis of antecedents and (expected) outcome of fashion retail innovation. IT-based innovation...... dominates, but innovation is suggested to include a broader scope of technologies. Contrary to innovation maturity models, this chapter proposes to consider innovation as a continuous refinement between dynamic capabilities and absorptive capacity where technologies must be adapted to the special...
Full Text Available Previous studies related to cooperative advertising mainly focus on the one-period supply chain. In the fashion and textiles (FT supply chain, the demand of most FT products (fashion clothing, vogue handbags, fashion shoes, and so on varies over time due to the trends of fashion. In these conditions, a decision-making framework with a multiple-period supply chain becomes more realistic. In view of this, we investigate the optimal cooperative advertising strategies in a two-period FT supply chain consisting of a manufacturer and a retailer in two different scenarios: (i each channel member makes decisions within a cooperative program; (ii the retailer is vertically integrated with a manufacturer. Also, we introduce a two-way subsidy contract to coordinate the supply chain.
Full Text Available This article explores how fashion design—an activity that fundamentally weaves together the practices, skills, and materials associated with clothing the body—can begin to weave together people in places. I reflect on collaborative encounters emerging from participatory design practice to consider how fashion-related activity might recognize and inspire deeper relational connections between people, and between people and their environment. I explore the role of the designer as host: one capable of creating conditions that lead to interactive movement among people and dialogue that expresses and explores intent. The designer as host activities of the action research project described here—I Stood Up in Chrisp Street—demonstrate fashion design’s capacity to inform not only localized sustainability practices, but also Fashion and Design for Sustainability research, education, and business practice. Keywords: Designer as host, Inside-out, Outside-in, Meaning-making, Matter-making, Cultures of resilience
Anastasia Anin F
Full Text Available The aim of this study is to investigate the relationship between self monitoring and impulsive buying towards fashion product on adolescent. It was hypothesized that there is a positive relationship between self monitoring and impulsive buying towards fashion product on adolescent. The subjects of this study (N = 92 were the students of Faculty of Economy Gadjah Mada University, Yogyakarta. Two questionnaires were applied to measure self monitoring and impulsive buying towards fashion product on adolescent. The result indicated a positive and significant relationship between attitude towards modernization and entrepreneurship on adolescent (r = 0,402; p = 0,000, meaning that the research hypothesis was accepted. The determination coefficient was 0,162 indicating that the self monitoring contributes 16,2% to the impulsib\\ve buying toward fashion product on adolescent.
Full Text Available The garment industry is rapidly growing with new concepts for keeping fashion business alive. To survive in the fashion industry new innovations are necessary for a while. In order to meet the demands for the market a computer-aided design CAD system gives opportunity for mass customization in fashion. The system enables to create more styles random changes make new design dimension of collection pattern generation graded size pattern marker creation and fabric cutting. By integrating the system with the processes of garment sewing test of fit and final adjustment mass customization can be realized in the apparel industry. For the manufacturers the efficiency of the supply chain can be improved by reducing human efforts costs and production time. For the customers better fittings with faster delivery stimulate the desire of purchase and enhance their satisfaction. This paper illustrates that why Fashion CAD study is important for garment industry in Bangladesh.
Robinson, Eric; Aveyard, Paul
There is concern that the body size of fashion store mannequins are too thin and promote unrealistic body ideals. To date there has been no systematic examination of the size of high street fashion store mannequins. We surveyed national fashion retailers located on the high street of two English cities. The body size of 'male' and 'female' mannequins was assessed by two blinded research assistants using visual rating scales. The average female mannequin body size was representative of a very underweight woman and 100% of female mannequins represented an underweight body size. The average male mannequin body size was significantly larger than the average female mannequin body size. Only 8% of male mannequins represented an underweight body size. The body size of mannequins used to advertise female fashion is unrealistic and would be considered medically unhealthy in humans.
[Purpose] The present study compared the physical characteristics and body composition of professional fashion models and women in general, utilizing the skinfold test. [Methods] The research sample consisted of 90 professional fashion models presently active in Korea and 100 females in the general population, all selected through convenience sampling. Measurement was done following standardized methods and procedures set by the International Society for the Advancement of Kinanthropometry. B...
The online marketing of luxury fashion brands has traditionally been a slow-paced business. Consumers are spending an increasing amount of time online and the electronic market provides enormous marketing and sales potential for companies that wish to increase brand awareness or conduct other marketing activities. The aim of this study is to conduct an understanding of the world of luxury fashion brands and how they perform their online marketing. The scope of the research is narrowed in...
Carlsson, Lisa J.; Chehimi, Sara
Recently, many high-end fashion designers have established their own e-commerce site. However, due to the difficulties of replicating the brick and mortar environment and the increase of competition, it has become more difficult to convert visitors into buyers. In order to attract buyers, some retailers add a lot of multimedia content. The purpose of this thesis is to investigate attitude towards multimedia and whether it influences one’s online purchasing intentions for high-end fashion.
Baggesen, Rikke Haller
Drawing together perspectives from museology, digital culture studies and fashion theory, this thesis considers changes in and challenges for current - day museums as related to ‘mobile museology’. This concept is developed for and elucidated in the thesis to describe an orientation towards the fashionable, the ephemeral, and towards an (ideal) state of change and changeability. This orientation is characterised with the triplet concepts of mobile, mobility, and mobilisation, as related to mo...
González Romo, Zahaira; Plaza Romero, Noemí
Luxury brands reinvent themselves in their marketing and business strategies to adapt and approach emerging markets eager to consume luxury fashion, which is why digital marketing becomes an essential tool for the communication of luxury brands leaders in the market with their younger audiences. The present research aims to know what are the current strategies in digital marketing that are being carried out by the brands of the luxury fashion sector. The aim is to identify the most relevant a...
Aprilianty, Fitri; Nasution, Reza Ashari
. The dynamic of global economy drives luxury fashion businesses to change. The primary channel of retailing for luxury fashion brand undergarment is offline stores because Luxury brands are expected to evoke uniqueness and exclusivity through high quality, premium pricing, and controlled distribution. With the exponential growth of various social media, however, luxury brands face challenges in how to maintain brand integrity while keep up with the social media trend. Facebook pages have eme...
Mass customization (MC) service is a pertinent industrial practice in the fashion industry. To foster trust and enhance demand, some brands now allow dissatisfied customers to return the MC fashion product for a full refund minus a service charge. The service charge is a measure to avoid the abuse of the return right and to subsidize the operations cost (e.g., shipping) and loss from the return. Motivated by this observed industrial practice, this paper analytically examines the optimal retur...
The learning process is believed will reach optimal results if facilitated by diversity of learning’s device from aspects of the approach, method, media or it’s evaluation system, in individually, groups, or as well as classical. One of the learning’s Device can be developed in an attempt to improve the results of the study is Computer Based Learning (CBL). CBL was developed aim to help students to understand the concepts of the learning material which presented interactively by the system and able to provide information and learning process better. This research is closely related to efforts to improve the quality of Fashion design in digital format learning, with specific targets to generate interactive multimedia-based animation as effective media and learning resources for fashion design learning. Applications that are generated may be an option for delivering learning material as well as to engender interest in learning as well as understanding with students against the subject matter so that it can improve the learning achievements of students. The instruments used to collect data is a test sheet of mastering the concept which developed on the basis of indicators understanding the concept of fashion design, the material elements and principles of fashion design as well as application on making fashion design. As for the skills test is done through test performance to making fashion design in digital format. The results of testing against the mastery of concepts and skills of fashion designing in digital formatted shows that experimental group obtained significantly higher qualifications compared to the control group. That means that the use of interactive multimedia-based animation, effective to increased mastery of concepts and skills on making fashion design in digital format.
Moore, Christopher M; Wigley, Stephen M.
Of all the international retailers, luxury fashion retailers are typically the most prolific as measured by the number and diversity of foreign markets in which they operate. Furthermore, for most, the contribution of foreign sales to total sales is equal to, if not greater than, that achieved by the most active international retailers (Moore & Fernie 2004). Yet, while the significance of the luxury fashion retailers’ foreign activities is now acknowledged in the international retailing liter...
He, Ruining; Lin, Chunbin; McAuley, Julian
To build a fashion recommendation system, we need to help users retrieve fashionable items that are visually similar to a particular query, for reasons ranging from searching alternatives (i.e., substitutes), to generating stylish outfits that are visually consistent, among other applications. In domains like clothing and accessories, such considerations are particularly paramount as the visual appearance of items is a critical feature that guides users' decisions. However, existing systems l...
He, Ruining; McAuley, Julian
Building a successful recommender system depends on understanding both the dimensions of people's preferences as well as their dynamics. In certain domains, such as fashion, modeling such preferences can be incredibly difficult, due to the need to simultaneously model the visual appearance of products as well as their evolution over time. The subtle semantics and non-linear dynamics of fashion evolution raise unique challenges especially considering the sparsity and large scale of the underly...
Martin, Elizabeth P; Mukherjee, Jean; Sharp, Claire R; Sinnott-Stutzman, Virginia B
Bacterial proliferation was evaluated in single-dose medications used in a multi-dose fashion and when medications were intentionally inoculated with bacteria. Of 5 experimentally punctured medications, 1 of 75 vials (50% dextrose) became contaminated. When intentionally inoculated, hydroxyethyl starch and heparinized saline supported microbial growth. Based on these findings, it is recommended that hydroxyethyl starch and heparinized saline not be used in a multi-dose fashion.
Pinto, Marcelo Machado Barbosa
This dissertation aims at explaining the elements involved with the upgrading processes in value chains. Empirical data about the upgrading processes of apparel production and consumption in Brazil is taken as a way to explore upgrading strategies in the context of a growing fashion industry. We assume that fashion has been a key element in the apparel production which responds to upgrading in apparel value chains, turning basic apparel into more valued products and services as they are embed...
Karaosman, Hakan; Morales Alonso, Gustavo; Brun, Alessandro
"Slow Fashion" attempts to offset the demand for fast fashion and mass production (Fletcher, 2007). Consumers' response to sustainability-based practices is a limited discourse and studies for slow fashion concept are scarce. This study thus aims to enlighten the subject of how slow fashion concept could improve local economies and how Spanish consumers respond to such initiatives. This paper is based on an exploratory qualitative research for which focus group interviews including three grou...
Fashion design education is one of education that prepares students to work in fashion design field. Students research future fashion trends, sketch designs, select colors, fabrics and patterns, and give instructions on how to make the products they designed. Fashion design education not only nurture and develop student's creative skills, it also teaches essential practical skills such as production techniques and material properties, to create a final product. According to this, new educatio...
van Veen, Kees; Bezemer, Jelle; Karsten, Luchien
In this article, we reconstruct the lifecycle of MANS, a less well-known Dutch management fashion. Studying less well-known fashions is necessary because it challenges existing understandings of management fashions. First, it is argued how such reconstructions can be helpful. It creates a need to
Kobayashi, M; Takatori, T; Nakajima, M; Sakurada, K; Hatanaka, K; Ikegaya, H; Matsuda, Y; Iwase, H
Rigor mortis is thought to be related to falling ATP levels in muscles postmortem. We measured rigor mortis as tension determined isometrically in three rat leg muscles in liquid paraffin kept at 37 degrees C or 25 degrees C--two red muscles, red gastrocnemius (RG) and soleus (SO) and one white muscle, white gastrocnemius (WG). Onset, half and full rigor mortis occurred earlier in RG and SO than in WG both at 37 degrees C and at 25 degrees C even though RG and WG were portions of the same muscle. This suggests that rigor mortis directly reflects the postmortem intramuscular ATP level, which decreases more rapidly in red muscle than in white muscle after death. Rigor mortis was more retarded at 25 degrees C than at 37 degrees C in each type of muscle.
Parvin Akter Khanam
Full Text Available BIRDEM is the largest referral center of diabetes in the world. It registered more than 300,000 diabetic patients from 1956 to 2005. This retrospective study compared the biophysical characteristics of diabetic patients registered in 1995 to those registered in 2005. Information on social (income, education, clinical (height, weight, blood pressure and oral glucose tolerance (OGTT of patients registered in 1995 and 2005 were retrieved from the BIRDEM registry. The age group ³ 20y was considered eligible. Overall, there were 11489 patients for 1995 and 19580 for 2005. Compared with the registry of 1995, a significant increase of registry for female patients were observed (39.5 vs. 46.7%, p<0.001 and also the rural population (31.9 vs. 47.4%, p<0.001. Likewise, the number of poor social class was also found higher in 2005 (5.2 vs. 25.5%, p<0.001. Young aged (<40y registry was also significantly higher in 2005 (34.4 vs. 37.1%, p<0.001. Compared with the registered patients of 1995, adjusted for sex and area, those of 2005 had a significantly higher BMI, higher FPG and higher 2hPG (for all, p<0.001. In contrast, a significantly lower age, lower height and lower blood pressure were observed in those of 2005. We conclude that the age at registration for diabetes has decreased significantly in 2005 compared to that in 1995 indicating an earlier onset of diabetes. Significantly higher obesity in the year 2005 than 1995 indicates that there has been an increase in obesity that might be an important contributing factor for earlier onset of diabetes. Ibrahim Med. Coll. J. 2008; 2(1: 1-3
Hedberg, Thomas D; Hartman, Nathan W; Rosche, Phil; Fischer, Kevin
Design for Manufacturing (DFM), especially the use of manufacturing knowledge to support design decisions, has received attention in the academic domain. However, industry practice has not been studied enough to provide solutions that are mature for industry. The current state of the art for DFM is often rule-based functionality within Computer-Aided Design (CAD) systems that enforce specific design requirements. That rule-based functionality may or may not dynamically affect geometry definition. And, if rule-based functionality exists in the CAD system, it is typically a customization on a case-by-case basis. Manufacturing knowledge is a phrase with vast meanings, which may include knowledge on the effects of material properties decisions, machine and process capabilities, or understanding the unintended consequences of design decisions on manufacturing. One of the DFM questions to answer is how can manufacturing knowledge, depending on its definition, be used earlier in the product lifecycle to enable a more collaborative development environment? This paper will discuss the results of a workshop on manufacturing knowledge that highlights several research questions needing more study. This paper proposes recommendations for investigating the relationship of manufacturing knowledge with shape, behavior, and context characteristics of product to produce a better understanding of what knowledge is most important. In addition, the proposal includes recommendations for investigating the system-level barriers to reusing manufacturing knowledge and how model-based manufacturing may ease the burden of knowledge sharing. Lastly, the proposal addresses the direction of future research for holistic solutions of using manufacturing knowledge earlier in the product lifecycle.
Soliman, Sameh E; Eldomiaty, Wesam; Goweida, Mohamed B; Dowidar, Amgad
To evaluate the clinical presentation of retinoblastoma in Alexandria, Egypt, correlate the timing of accurate diagnosis with the presence of advanced disease and identify causes of delayed presentation. Retrospective noncomparative single institution study reviews demographic and clinical data of all new children with retinoblastoma presenting to Alexandria Main University ocular oncology clinic (OOC) from January 2012 to June 2014. Diagnosis time was from initial parental complaint to retinoblastoma diagnosis and referral time was from retinoblastoma diagnosis to presentation to the Alexandria OCC. Delayed Diagnosis and referral were counted if >2 weeks. Advanced presentation is defined as clinical TNMH (8th edition) staging of cT2 or cT3 (international intraocular retinoblastoma classification group D or E) in at least one eye or the presence of extra-ocular disease (cT4). Seventy eyes of 47 children were eligible: 52% unilateral, 7% with family history and 96% presented with leukocorea. Sixty-four percent of children had advanced intraocular disease and none had extra-ocular disease. Delayed presentation occurred in 58% of children and was significantly associated with advanced disease in both unilaterally and bilaterally affected children (p = 0.003, 0.002 respectively). The delay in diagnosis was more in unilateral cases while the delay in referral was more in bilateral cases. The main cause of delayed presentation in unilateral retinoblastoma was misdiagnosis (30%) while parental shopping for second medical opinion (30%) was the main cause in bilateral children. Delayed diagnosis is a problem affecting retinoblastoma management. Better medical education and training, health education and earlier screening are recommended to achieve earlier diagnosis.
van Tilborg, Theodora C; Broekmans, Frank J; Pijpe, Anouk; Schrijver, Lieske H; Mooij, Thea M; Oosterwijk, Jan C; Verhoef, Senno; Gómez Garcia, Encarna B; van Zelst-Stams, Wendy A; Adank, Muriel A; van Asperen, Christi J; van Doorn, Helena C; van Os, Theo A; Bos, Anna M; Rookus, Matti A; Ausems, Margreet G
It has been hypothesized that BRCA1/2 mutation carriers have an earlier age at natural menopause (ANM), although to date findings are inconclusive. This study assessed the influence of BRCA mutation status on ANM, and aimed to explore the reasons of inconsistency in the literature. Cross-sectional assessment from an ongoing nationwide cohort study among members of BRCA1/2 mutated families. Information was obtained by a standardized questionnaire. Kaplan-Meier curves were constructed, and Cox regression was used to assess the association between BRCA1/2 mutation status and ANM. Adjustments were made for birth cohort, family, smoking, use of hormonal contraceptives, and parity. A total of 1,208 BRCA1/2 mutation carriers and 2,211 proven noncarriers were included. Overall, no association was found between BRCA1/2 mutation status and ANM (adjusted hazard ratio [HR] = 1.06 [95% CI, 0.87-1.30]). We examined if the null finding was due to informative censoring by uptake of risk-reducing salpingo-oophorectomy. Indeed, within the oldest birth cohort, in which the percentage of surgical menopause events was lowest and comparable between carriers and noncarriers, the HR for earlier natural menopause in carriers was 1.45 (95% CI, 1.09-1.94). The second oldest birth cohort, however, demonstrated a decreased HR (0.67 [95% CI, 0.46-0.98]), and thus no trend over birth cohorts was found. Various types of selection bias hamper the comparison of ANM between BRCA1/2 mutation carriers and noncarriers, genetically tested in the clinic.
This research is related to the effort to design a more representative learning system to improve the learning result of digital fashion design, through the development of interactive multimedia based on motion graphic. This research is aimed to know the effect of interactive multimedia application based on motion graphic to increase the mastery of the concept and skill of the students to making fashion designing in digital format. The research method used is quasi experiment with research design of Non-equivalent Control Group Design. The lectures are conducted in two different classes, namely class A as the Experimental Class and class B as the Control Class. From the calculation result after interpreted using Normalize Gain, there is an increase of higher learning result in student with interactive learning based on motion graphic, compared with student achievement on conventional learning. In this research, interactive multimedia learning based on motion graphic is effective toward the improvement of student learning in concept mastering indicator and on the aspect of making fashion design in digital format.
Santonastaso, Paolo; Mondini, Silvia; Favaro, Angela
Few studies to date have investigated whether in fact the prevalence of eating disorders (ED) and/or use of illicit drugs is higher among models than among other groups of females. A group of 63 professional fashion models of various nationalities were studied by means of self-reported questionnaires. They were compared with a control group of 126 female subjects recruited from the general population. Fashion models weigh significantly less than controls, but only a small percentage of them uses unhealthy methods to control their weight. The current frequency of full-syndrome ED did not differ between the groups, but partial-syndrome ED were significantly more common among fashion models than among controls. Current substance use or alcohol abuse was reported by 35% of fashion models and 12% of controls. Our findings suggest that fashion models are more at risk for partial ED and use of illicit drugs than females in the general population. Copyright 2002 S. Karger AG, Basel
Marques, A. D.; Moschatou, A.
Portugal is today an important player in the European fashion industry. The Portuguese footwear industry, “low-tech”, mature and traditional, dominated by SMEs, is also a success case in the Portuguese economy. With own brands, own collections and own products, the quality, innovation and international image of the Portuguese clothes, accessories and shoes is increasing year by year in the most sophisticated markets worldwide. The new information economy and social media presents a new set of opportunities and threats to established companies, new challenges and new markets, and demanding to all the companies to rethink their strategy and to prepare new business plans. Portuguese companies in the fashion industry are starting to perceive that the brand’s transition to social media means a transformation of the customer relationship, wherein social media and the community members is an ally of the brand and not an “audience”. Also the universities are preparing new professionals to the fashion industry and the learning process has to be managed according these new challenges. And the University of Minho has the Bachelor in Fashion Design and Marketing, an excellent course to prepare new skills to these fashion companies: textile, clothing and footwear industries.
Full Text Available The fashion in Paris at the XVIIIth century knows deep changes. The clothing offer is illustrated by a fashion periodic press which is renews its proposals thanks to attractive engravings. Especially an iconic figure emerges from this Age of Lumières: the fashion trader and his most famous representing, Miss Rose Bertin, “minister of fashion” of the queen of France, Marie-Antoinette. The women were as funny birds which change plumage two or three times a day. The women passion for fashion caused strong reactions, especially those of Mercier de Compiègne. In Comment m’habillerai-je ? Mercier established an undeniable link between the clothing fashion and the power of nation. The respect of simplicity, reflects reserve and modesty; two virtues characteristic of the human nature. Any clothing which can excite the claims of the women is against their natural destination. Mercier sings the return to nature. The author of Comment m’habillerai-je ? exalts the transparent and natural beauty image. These reflections want to allure the royal court and to change the rules of good taste.
Full Text Available With the rapid rising of living standard, people gradually developed higher shopping enthusiasm and increasing demand for garment. Nowadays, an increasing number of people pursue fashion. However, facing too many types of garment, consumers need to try them on repeatedly, which is somewhat time- and energy-consuming. Besides, it is difficult for merchants to master the real-time demand of consumers. Herein, there is not enough cohesiveness between consumer information and merchants. Thus, a novel fashion evaluation method on the basis of the appearance weak feature is proposed in this paper. First of all, image database is established and three aspects of appearance weak feature are put forward to characterize the fashion level. Furthermore, the appearance weak features are extracted according to the characters’ facial feature localization method. Last but not least, consumers’ fashion level can be classified through support vector product, and the classification is verified with the hierarchical analysis method. The experimental results show that consumers’ fashion level can be accurately described based on the indexes of appearance weak feature and the approach has higher application value for the clothing recommendation system.
Iannotti, Lora; Jean Louis Dulience, Sherlie; Wolff, Patricia; Cox, Katherine; Lesorogol, Carolyn; Kohl, Patricia
To examine the nutrition-related factors associated with motor and language development among young children living in a poor urban area of Haiti. Children aged 6-11 months (n = 583) were enrolled and followed monthly for one year. World Health Organization motor developmental milestones and vowel and consonant counts were assessed. Longitudinal regression models were applied to assess the association of anthropometric, dietary intake, infectious disease morbidity and socio-economic and demographic factors on developmental outcomes. At baseline, 9.4% were stunted or length-for-age Z score < -2, and 30.2% were mild-to-moderately stunted or length-for-age Z score < -1. Stunting status was significantly associated with motor and phonetic language acquisition at each time point during infancy. Several nutrition factors significantly predicted earlier achievement of motor and language development outcomes in longitudinal models: child anthropometry; breastfeeding and complementary feeding frequencies; dietary diversity; egg and oil intake; and reduced infectious disease morbidities. Increases in the length-for-age Z score significantly predicted all motor and language outcomes and yielded the best fit models compared to other anthropometric indicators (p < 0.001). Child development interventions may be enhanced by incorporating nutrition strategies such as improved diet quality, breastfeeding promotion and diarrhoeal disease mitigation. ©2016 Foundation Acta Paediatrica. Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.
Yokoi, Fumiaki; Yang, Guang; Li, Jindong; DeAndrade, Mark P; Zhou, Tong; Li, Yuqing
DYT1 early-onset generalized torsion dystonia is an inherited movement disorder caused by mutations in DYT1 coding for torsinA with ∼30% penetrance. Most of the DYT1 dystonia patients exhibit symptoms during childhood and adolescence. On the other hand, DYT1 mutation carriers without symptoms during these periods mostly do not exhibit symptoms later in their life. Little is known about what controls the timing of the onset, a critical issue for DYT1 mutation carriers. DYT11 myoclonus-dystonia is caused by mutations in SGCE coding for ε-sarcoglycan. Two dystonia patients from a single family with double mutations in DYT1 and SGCE exhibited more severe symptoms. A recent study suggested that torsinA contributes to the quality control of ε-sarcoglycan. Here, we derived mice carrying mutations in both Dyt1 and Sgce and found that these double mutant mice showed earlier onset of motor deficits in beam-walking test. A novel monoclonal antibody against mouse ε-sarcoglycan was developed by using Sgce knock-out mice to avoid the immune tolerance. Western blot analysis suggested that functional deficits of torsinA and ε-sarcoglycan may independently cause motor deficits. Examining additional mutations in other dystonia genes may be beneficial to predict the onset in DYT1 mutation carriers.
Misak, J.; Rohar, S.
The problems of safety of WWER-440/V-230 type reactors are discussed, and the following conclusions are made. (1) The reactors have a very good operational record. (2) The reactors have serious design shortcomings, which should be eliminated by safety upgrading. Core damage frequency should be further reduced. (3) PSA methods constitute an appropriate tool for assessment of plant vulnerability to some initiating events and malfunctions, for prioritization of upgrading measures and for tolerability of deviations from current safety standards. (4) The most important safety merits, such as a large thermal inertia and low rupture probability, should be properly taken into account in the analysis. (5) Extensive safety upgrading is feasible and can lead to a considerable risk reduction. In certain circumstances such upgrading is the least expensive option even though the total cost is much higher than the initial plant construction cost. (6) Properly upgraded, the reactor units may be operable until better power resources are available within the country. (7) The existing gap between the technological and political judgements of nuclear safety should be reduced continuously by information exchange improvements. (8) A unified approach to nuclear safety should be adopted for all nuclear reactors (not just WWERs) built to earlier standards. 5 tabs., 1 fig
Knowles, J. F.; Molotch, N. P.; Trujillo, E.; Litvak, M. E.
Future projections of declining snowpack and increasing potential evaporation associated with climate warming are predicted to advance the timing of snowmelt in mountain ecosystems globally. This scenario has direct implications for snowmelt-driven forest productivity, but the net effect of temporally shifting moisture dynamics is unknown with respect to the annual carbon balance. Accordingly, this study uses both satellite- and tower-based observations to document the forest productivity response to snowpack and potential evaporation variability between 1989 and 2012 throughout the southern Rocky Mountain ecoregion, USA. These results show that a combination of low snow accumulation and record high potential evaporation in 2012 resulted in the 34-year minimum ecosystem productivity that could be indicative of future conditions. Moreover, early and late season productivity were significantly and inversely related, suggesting that future shifts toward earlier or reduced snowmelt could increase late-season moisture stress to vegetation and thus restrict productivity despite a longer growing season. This relationship was further subject to modification by summer precipitation, and the controls on the early/late season productivity ratio are explored within the context of ecosystem carbon storage in the future. Any perturbation to the carbon cycle at this scale represents a potential feedback to climate change since snow-covered forests represent an important global carbon sink.
Park, Minjung; Yoo, Jungmin
The objective of this study was to explore impacts and benefits of mass customized products on emotional product attachment, favorable attitudes toward a mass customization program, and the ongoing effect on loyalty intentions. This study further investigated how benefits, attachment, attitudes, and loyalty intentions differed as a function of involvement and fashion innovativeness. 290 female online shoppers in South Korea participated in an online survey. Results of this study revealed that perceived benefits positively influenced emotional product attachment and attitudes toward a mass customization program. In addition, attachment positively influenced attitudes, which in turn affected loyalty intentions. This study also found that benefits, attachment, attitudes, and loyalty intentions were all higher in highly involved consumers (high fashion innovators) than those in less involved consumers (low fashion innovators). This study concludes with theoretical and practical implications for mass customization programs.
Full Text Available The objective of this study was to explore impacts and benefits of mass customized products on emotional product attachment, favorable attitudes toward a mass customization program, and the ongoing effect on loyalty intentions. This study further investigated how benefits, attachment, attitudes, and loyalty intentions differed as a function of involvement and fashion innovativeness. 290 female online shoppers in South Korea participated in an online survey. Results of this study revealed that perceived benefits positively influenced emotional product attachment and attitudes toward a mass customization program. In addition, attachment positively influenced attitudes, which in turn affected loyalty intentions. This study also found that benefits, attachment, attitudes, and loyalty intentions were all higher in highly involved consumers (high fashion innovators than those in less involved consumers (low fashion innovators. This study concludes with theoretical and practical implications for mass customization programs.
Tiggemann, Marika; Brown, Zoe
The experiment investigated the impact on women's body dissatisfaction of different forms of label added to fashion magazine advertisements. Participants were 340 female undergraduate students who viewed 15 fashion advertisements containing a thin and attractive model. They were randomly allocated to one of five label conditions: no label, generic disclaimer label (indicating image had been digitally altered), consequence label (indicating that viewing images might make women feel bad about themselves), informational label (indicating the model in the advertisement was underweight), or a graphic label (picture of a paint brush). Although exposure to the fashion advertisements resulted in increased body dissatisfaction, there was no significant effect of label type on body dissatisfaction; no form of label demonstrated any ameliorating effect. In addition, the consequence and informational labels resulted in increased perceived realism and state appearance comparison. Yet more extensive research is required before the effective implementation of any form of label. Copyright © 2018 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
Luiz Antonio Slongo
Full Text Available Based on the concepts of Feature Fatigue, IT Fashion and IT Consumerization, this paper aims to investigate the relationships between them answering two questions: (1 does the phenomenon of IT Fashion result in Feature Fatigue? (2 Will the concept of Feature Fatigue cause the same effect when looking from the point of view of the IT Consumerization in the corporate environment? The research addresses these questions through two techniques: a laddering and a survey. Albeit tenuously, the results provide evidence that consumption motivated by IT Fashion leads to Feature Fatigue. This study contributes to management research by attempting at the phenomenon described from a multidisciplinary perspective, also contributing to management practice, specifically for marketing managers trying to understand the experiences and expectations of consumers, and also for IT managers engaged in the design of governance policies regarding the use of personal devices by employees in this context.
Huo, Meilin; Kim, Chul Soo; Zhao, Wenhan
In modern dynamic fashion show, designers often use the latest ideas and technology, and spend their energy in stage effect and overall environment to make audience’s watching a fashion show like an audio-visual feast. With rapid development of China’s science and technology, it has become a design trend to strengthen the relationship between new ideas, new trends and technology in modern art. With emergence of new technology, new methods and new materials, designers for dynamic fashion show stage art can choose the materials with an increasingly large scope. Generation of new technology has also made designers constantly innovate the stage space design means, and made the stage space design innovated constantly on the original basis of experiences. The dynamic clothing display space is on design of clothing display space, layout, platform decoration style, platform models, performing colors, light arrangement, platform background, etc.
Pinto, S. S. D.; Cunha, J.; Quental, J.; Buhamra, C.
The present work aims to present the showcase, its relation with the building, with fashion and with the observer. The importance of this exhibition space extends from the aesthetic and communication functions to be part of a wide textile and clothing chain. This role integrates the whole cycle of creation, textiles, clothing and fashion accessories. For this article we used bibliographical references of design and fashion, as well as methodologies of photographic and ethnographic documentation, with application of focus groups. From the focus groups were identified descriptors related to emotional design. Such descriptors point to the emotions arising from memories, tastes and attitudes. These factors can lead to decisions and assist the wider knowledge of the target audience.
Full Text Available It is well known that purchase of luxury fashion brands is strongly influenced by social needs such as the need for uniqueness and the need of conformity. The existence of these two competing social needs separates customers into two groups who exhibit different buying behaviors. This paper concerns the impacts of such social influences between different consumer groups on pricing and advertising strategies of luxury fashion brands with penalty of insufficient advertising. We start by considering different advertising allocation strategies and derive the corresponding local optimal pricing and advertising allocation policies, through which the global optimal policy that maximizes the company’s profit can be obtained. Important insights on strategic advertising for luxury fashion brands are discussed.
Constance J. Post
Full Text Available In My China Years: A Memoir, Helen Foster Snow draws upon her Puritan roots in fashioning an American self that affirms the power of an individual exemplary life, the ability to exercise free will amid struggle, an optimism borne of hope, and a way to represent failure and success. Self-fashioning, which Stephen Greenblatt attributes to the rise of an autonomous self in early modern Europe, is shaped by Snow as a distinctly American identity based on a secular Puritanism she found more congenial than the Puritanism of her ancestors on both sides of the Atlantic. The many resemblances noted by Snow between the Chinese Communist Army and seventeenth-century English Puritanism led her to interrogate Puritanism, both in its traditional form and its secularised variant. What emerges in the pages of My China Years is an attempt to fashion an American self by negotiating an old Puritanism with the new by way of a triangulation with China.
What can fashionable ideas, blind faith, or pure fantasy possibly have to do with the scientific quest to understand the universe? Surely, theoretical physicists are immune to mere trends, dogmatic beliefs, or flights of fancy? In fact, acclaimed physicist and bestselling author Roger Penrose argues that researchers working at the extreme frontiers of physics are just as susceptible to these forces as anyone else. In this provocative book, he argues that fashion, faith, and fantasy, while sometimes productive and even essential in physics, may be leading today's researchers astray in three of the field's most important areas--string theory, quantum mechanics, and cosmology. Arguing that string theory has veered away from physical reality by positing six extra hidden dimensions, Penrose cautions that the fashionable nature of a theory can cloud our judgments of its plausibility. In the case of quantum mechanics, its stunning success in explaining the atomic universe has led to an uncritical faith that it must ...
Obukhova, Elena; Zuckerman, Ezra W; Zhang, Jiayin
The authors examine the popularity of boys' given names in Beijing before and after the onset of the Cultural Revolution to clarify how exogenous and endogenous factors interact to shape fashion. Whereas recent work in the sociology of culture emphasizes the importance of endogenous processes in explaining fashion, their analysis demonstrates two ways in which politics shaped cultural expression during the Cultural Revolution: by promoting forms of expression reflecting prevailing political ideology and by limiting individuals' willingness to act differently. As argued by Lieberson and developed further in this article, the second condition is important because endogenous fashion cycles require a critical mass of individuals who seek to differentiate themselves from common practice. Exogenous factors can influence the operation of the endogenous factors. The authors discuss the implications of their study for understanding the nature of conformity under authoritarian regimes and social conditions supporting individual expression.
Moema Pereira Nunes
Full Text Available O fast-fashion é um modelo de negócios utilizado do varejo de moda que abrange desde a criação do produto até sua produção e distribuição, com o objetivo responder rapidamente às constantes e cada vez mais frequentes mudanças de tendências de moda e de demanda de consumo. Este trabalho tem como objetivo geral analisar as motivações de compra do consumidor de fast-fashion no Brasil. A revisão da literatura abrangeu os temas moda e consumo, fast-fashion e motivações do consumidor de moda. Uma pesquisa exploratória qualitativa através de entrevistas em profundidade foi realizada com especialistas do ramo da moda. Posteriormente uma pesquisa quantitativa com fins exploratório-descritivos foi empregada. Este trabalho aponta a capacidade do fast-fashion de ressoar fortemente com motivações de caráter emocional, cognitivo e social, que levam o consumidor a comprar mais e com maior frequência do que se fosse motivado apenas por objetivos funcionais. As motivações de compra de fast-fashion relacionam-se principalmente com auto expressão, autoconfiança e preocupação com imagem. Dentre os fatores chave para a decisão de compra do consumidor de fast-fashion destacam-se os menores preços, a variedade de modelos e produtos, e o ambiente das lojas. Este último aspecto não foi identificado previamente na literatura e representa um avanço no conhecimento científico sobre o tema.
Panni, Roheena Z; Ashfaq, Awais; Amanullah, Muhammad M
Congenital heart disease (CHD) accounts for a major proportion of disease in the pediatric age group. The objective of the study was to estimate the cost of illness associated with CHD pre, intra and postoperatively; among patients referred to a tertiary care hospital in Karachi, Pakistan. This is the first study conducted to estimate the cost of managing CHD in Pakistan. A prevalence based cost of illness study design was used to estimate the cost of cardiac surgery (corrective & palliative) for congenital heart defects in children ≤ 5 years of age from June 2006 to June 2009. A total of 120 patients were enrolled after obtaining an informed consent and the data was collected using a pre-tested questionnaire. The mean age at the time of surgery in group A (1-12 mo age) was 6.08 ± 2.80 months and in group B (1-5 yrs) was 37.10 ± 19.94 months. The cost of surgical admission was found to be significantly higher in the older group, p = 0.001. The total number and cost of post-operative outpatient visits was also higher in group B, p = 0.003. Pre and post operative hospital admissions were not found to be significantly different among the two groups, p = 0.166 and 0.627, respectively. The number of complications were found to be different between the two groups (p = 0.019). Majority of these were contributed by hemorrhage and post-operative seizures. This study concluded that significant expenditure is incurred by people with CHD; with the implication that resources could be saved by earlier detection and awareness campaigns.
Full Text Available Climate changes will have an impact on food production and will require costly adaptive responses. Adapting to a changing environment will be particularly challenging in sub-Saharan Africa where climate change is expected to have a major impact. However, one important phenomenon that is often overlooked and is poorly documented is the ability of agro-systems to rapidly adapt to environmental variations. Such an adaptation could proceed by the adoption of new varieties or by the adaptation of varieties to a changing environment. In this study, we analyzed these two processes in one of the driest agro-ecosystems in Africa, the Sahel. We performed a detailed study in Niger where pearl millet is the main crop and covers 65% of the cultivated area. To assess how the agro-system is responding to recent recurrent drought, we analyzed samples of pearl millet landraces collected in the same villages in 1976 and 2003 throughout the entire cultivated area of Niger. We studied phenological and morphological differences in the 1976 and 2003 collections by comparing them over three cropping seasons in a common garden experiment. We found no major changes in the main cultivated varieties or in their genetic diversity. However, we observed a significant shift in adaptive traits. Compared to the 1976 samples, samples collected in 2003 displayed a shorter lifecycle, and a reduction in plant and spike size. We also found that an early flowering allele at the PHYC locus increased in frequency between 1976 and 2003. The increase exceeded the effect of drift and sampling, suggesting a direct effect of selection for earliness on this gene. We conclude that recurrent drought can lead to selection for earlier flowering in a major Sahelian crop. Surprisingly, these results suggest that diffusion of crop varieties is not the main driver of short term adaptation to climatic variation.
Felipo, Vicente; Urios, Amparo; Giménez-Garzó, Carla; Cauli, Omar; Andrés-Costa, Maria-Jesús; González, Olga; Serra, Miguel A; Sánchez-González, Javier; Aliaga, Roberto; Giner-Durán, Remedios; Belloch, Vicente; Montoliu, Carmina
To assess whether non invasive blood flow measurement by arterial spin labeling in several brain regions detects minimal hepatic encephalopathy. Blood flow (BF) was analyzed by arterial spin labeling (ASL) in different brain areas of 14 controls, 24 cirrhotic patients without and 16 cirrhotic patients with minimal hepatic encephalopathy (MHE). Images were collected using a 3 Tesla MR scanner (Achieva 3T-TX, Philips, Netherlands). Pulsed ASL was performed. Patients showing MHE were detected using the battery Psychometric Hepatic Encephalopathy Score (PHES) consisting of five tests. Different cognitive and motor functions were also assessed: alterations in selective attention were evaluated using the Stroop test. Patients and controls also performed visuo-motor and bimanual coordination tests. Several biochemical parameters were measured: serum pro-inflammatory interleukins (IL-6 and IL-18), 3-nitrotyrosine, cGMP and nitrates+nitrites in plasma, and blood ammonia. Bivariate correlations were evaluated. In patients with MHE, BF was increased in cerebellar hemisphere (P = 0.03) and vermis (P = 0.012) and reduced in occipital lobe (P = 0.017). BF in cerebellar hemisphere was also increased in patients without MHE (P = 0.02). Bimanual coordination was impaired in patients without MHE (P = 0.05) and much more in patients with MHE (P battery and with CFF. BF in cerebellar hemisphere correlates with plasma cGMP and nitric oxide (NO) metabolites. BF in vermis cerebellar also correlates with NO metabolites and with 3-nitrotyrosine. IL-18 in plasma correlates with BF in thalamus and occipital lobe. Non invasive BF determination in cerebellum using ASL may detect MHE earlier than the PHES. Altered NO-cGMP pathway seems to be associated to altered BF in cerebellum.
In June 1992, an ICP-MS instrument (Inductively Coupled Plasma-Mass Spectrometry) was commissioned for use with radioactive sample solutions at Studsvik Nuclear's Hot Cell Laboratory. For conventional environmental samples the instrument permits the simultaneous analysis of many trace elements, but the software used in evaluation of the mass spectra is based on a library of isotopic compositions relevant only for elements in the lithosphere. Fission products and actinides, however, have isotopic compositions which are significantly different from the natural elements, and which also vary with the burnup of the nuclear fuel specimen. Consequently, a spread-sheet had to be developed which could evaluate the mass spectra with these isotopic compositions. Following these preparations, a large number of samples (about 200) from SKB's experimental programme for the study of spent fuel corrosion have been analyzed by the ICP-MS technique. Many of these samples were archive solutions of samples which had been taken earlier in the programme. This report presents a comparison of the analytical results for uranium, plutonium, cesium, strontium and technetium by both the ICP-MS technique, and the previously used analytical methods. For three products, a satisfactory agreement between the results from the various methods was obtained, but for uranium and plutonium the ICP-MS method gave results which were 10-20% higher than the conventional methods. The comparison programme has also shown, not unexpectedly, that significant losses of plutonium from solution had occurred, by precipitation and/or absorption, in the archive solutions during storage. It can be expected that such losses also occur for the other actinides, and consequently, all the analytical results for actinides in older archive solutions must be treated with great caution. 9 refs
Wolfe, Joanna M
Macroevolutionary developmental biology employs fossilized ontogenetic data and phylogenetic comparative methods to probe the evolution of development at ancient nodes. Despite the prevalence of ecologically differentiated larval forms in marine invertebrates, it has been frequently presumed that the ancestors of arthropods were direct developers, and that metamorphosis may not have evolved until the Ordovician or later. Using fossils and new dated phylogenies, I infer that metamorphosis was likely ancestral for crown arthropods, contradicting this assumption. Based on a published morphological dataset encompassing 217 exceptionally preserved fossil and 96 extant taxa, fossils were directly incorporated into both the topology and age estimates, as in "tip dating" analyses. Using data from post-embryonic fossils representing 25 species throughout stem and crown arthropod lineages (as well as most of the 96 extant taxa), characters for metamorphosis were assigned based on inferred ecological changes in development (e.g., changes in habitat and adaptive landscape). Under all phylogenetic hypotheses, metamorphosis was supported as most likely ancestral to both ecdysozoans and euarthropods. Care must be taken to account for potential drastic post-embryonic morphological changes in evolutionary analyses. Many stem group euarthrpods may have had ecologically differentiated larval stages that did not preserve in the fossil record. Moreover, a complex life cycle and planktonic ecology may have evolved in the Ediacaran or earlier, and may have typified the pre-Cambrian explosion "wormworld" prior to the origin of crown group euarthropods. © The Author 2017. Published by Oxford University Press on behalf of the Society for Integrative and Comparative Biology. All rights reserved. For permissions please email: firstname.lastname@example.org.
Nathalia C. Tjandra; Maktoba Omar; Robert L. Williams, Jr.; John Ensor
With approximately 1.38 billion, Generation Y are currently in the job market or about to enter the job market, they are increasingly taking over the spending power of the previous generation, the Baby Boomers. The purpose of this qualitative study was to explore the impact country-of-origin information on the perception of Generation Y towards international fashion brands. This study was conducted in the context of fashion products, one of the key interests of the Generation Y, and covered a...
Shen, Bin; Li, Qingying
l outsourcing with a return policy is quite commonly adopted in the fashion supply chain. Under the return policy, the supplier as a brand owner may focus on production, and then outsource retailing to the retailer. In the meanwhile, the retailer may receive some support money from the supplier for subsidizing the loss of unsold products at the end of the selling season and be asked for shipping back. Motivated by this real practice in the fashion industry, we examine a two-echelon supply cha...
D'Amico, Simona; Giustiniano, Luca; Nenni, Maria Elena; Pirolo, Luca
The aim of this paper is to present the fashion system as a “cluster” and to evaluate the characteristics of Product Lifecycle Management (PLM) taking into account various factors, in particular the different approaches to dealing with market needs. More specifically, the “readyto- wear fashion” and “fast fashion” models will be presented and compared. The paper takes the Italian fashion system as the unit of analysis and assumes that consumer behavioural factors act in a non-predictable (i.e...
Broega, A. C.; Gonçalves, E.; Ribeiro, R.
The great challenge of this century is the creation of new models of fashion business with sustainable principles. Therefore, it is intend to present in this paper the process that gave rise to a set of differentiated designs for fashion accessories. This paper presents the relationship of a set of concepts more or less interconnected, which brings together sustainability principles of social and cultural, besides the environmental dimension, exploring the cultural and intangible heritage of the Vianesa Costume. The Vianesa Costume reflects the culture of a people and has a high potential for innovation, from both technical and aesthetic point of view, in the sense of a more contemporary reading.
Bjørn-Andersen, Niels; Hansen, Rina
for assessing websites and social media sites of luxury fashion brands. We applied the framework in three empirical studies in 2006, 2008 and 2010. Our findings show that the observed luxury brands have increased their adoption of social and interactive digital Internet-based technologies since 2006. We also...... document some of the most interesting uses of Web 2.0 technologies fashion brands for creating an immersing and innovative environment online. While some brands like Burberry has gone ‘the full Monty’, others like Prada has not had a functioning web-site since 2007, probably disappointed about their first...
Guo Li; Yuchen Kang; Mengqi Liu; Zhaohua Wang
This paper investigates a retailer’s optimal inventory cycle and the corresponding time of payment in fashion supply chains where a supplier allows the payment delay. Here according to the established model we first analyze the retailer's reaction, and then find out the retailer’s optimal inventory policy and time of payment to maximize its total profit. Our result shows that it is not always the best choice for retailers of fashion supply chains to choose the discount way to replenish stocks...
Willems, Kim; Swinnen, Gilbert; Brengman, Malaika; Janssens, Wim
Although traditionally, the concept of “branding” has almost exclusively been used in the context of consumer goods, it has gradually found its way into the field of retailing (Ailawadi and Keller, 2004). In the way that consumers buy (luxury) brands to express or enhance their self-image, so can they be expected to patronize stores with a personality that matches their self-concept (Sirgy et al., 2000). This is particularly the case in the fashion industry, with fast fashion retailers tradin...
Kazemier, Elles; Eggens, Lilian; Wolfensberger, Marca; Wolfensberger, Marca; Lammers, Marike
Het bezoek aan Phoenix en de uitwisseling van ervaringen met de leden van het National College of Honours Council maken duidelijk dat we over en weer veel van elkaar kunnen leren over honoursonderwijs.
Background In patients with ST-elevation myocardial infarction (STEMI) reperfusion therapy should be initiated as soon as possible. This study evaluated whether use of a helicopter for transportation of patients is associated with earlier initiation of reperfusion therapy. Material and methods A prospective study was conducted, including patients with STEMI and symptom duration less than 12 hours, who had primary percutaneous coronary intervention (PPCI) performed at Aarhus University Hospital in Skejby. Patients with a health care system delay (time from emergency call to first coronary intervention) of more than 360 minutes were excluded. The study period ran from 1.1.2011 until 31.12.2011. A Western Denmark Helicopter Emergency Medical Service (HEMS) project was initiated 1.6.2011 for transportation of patients with time-critical illnesses, including STEMI. Results The study population comprised 398 patients, of whom 376 were transported by ambulance Emergency Medical Service (EMS) and 22 by HEMS. Field-triage directly to the PCI-center was used in 338 of patients. The median system delay was 94 minutes among those field-triaged, and 168 minutes among those initially admitted to a local hospital. Patients transported by EMS and field-triaged were stratified into four groups according to transport distance from the scene of event to the PCI-center: ≤25 km., 26–50 km., 51–75 km. and > 75 km. For these groups, the median system delay was 78, 89, 99, and 141 minutes. Among patients transported by HEMS and field-triaged the estimated median transport distance by ground transportation was 115 km, and the observed system delay was 107 minutes. Based on second order polynomial regression, it was estimated that patients with a transport distance of >60 km to the PCI-center may benefit from helicopter transportation, and that transportation by helicopter is associated with a system delay of less than 120 minutes even at a transport distance up to 150 km
National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration, Department of Commerce — Preliminary Local Climatological Data, recorded since 1970 on Weather Burean Form 1030 and then National Weather Service Form F-6. The preliminary climate data pages...
Liu Mingjian; Zhang Yan; Yan Xuekun; Chen Ying
A new-fashioned digital-analog converter (DAC) which can find the pulse-signal amplitude through dichotomy is devised. With this new DAC method, a 256-channel multi-channel pulse amplitude analyzer (MCA) is designed successfully, and its hardware and software are introduced in detail. This provides a new method for designing MCA. (authors)
Fashion Inst. of Tech., New York, NY.
The apparel design and production guide is the second of a series of five interrelated program resource guides encompassing the various dimensions of the fashion industry. Designed to provide youths and adults with intensive preparation for initial entry employment and also with career advancement opportunities within specific categories of jobs,…
Full Text Available This work, set in the context of the apparel industry, proposes an action-oriented disclosure tool to help solve the sustainability challenges of complex fast-fashion supply chains (SCs. In a search for effective disclosure, it focusses on actions towards sustainability instead of the measurements and indicators of its impacts. We applied qualitative and quantitative content analysis to the sustainability reporting of the world’s two largest fast-fashion companies in three phases. First, we searched for the challenges that the organisations report they are currently facing. Second, we introduced the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs framework to overcome the voluntary reporting drawback of ‘choosing what to disclose’, and revealed orphan issues. This broadened the scope from internal corporate challenges to issues impacting the ecosystems in which companies operate. Third, we analysed the reported sustainability actions and decomposed them into topics, instruments, and actors. The results showed that fast-fashion reporting has a broadly developed analysis base, but lacks action orientation. This has led us to propose the ‘Fast-Fashion Sustainability Scorecard’ as a universal disclosure framework that shifts the focus from (i reporting towards action; (ii financial performance towards sustainable value creation; and (iii corporate boundaries towards value creation for the broader SC ecosystem.
The present study compared the physical characteristics and body composition of professional fashion models and women in general, utilizing the skinfold test. The research sample consisted of 90 professional fashion models presently active in Korea and 100 females in the general population, all selected through convenience sampling. Measurement was done following standardized methods and procedures set by the International Society for the Advancement of Kinanthropometry. Body density (mg/ mm) and body fat (%) were measured at the biceps, triceps, subscapular, and suprailiac areas. The results showed that the biceps, triceps, subscapular, and suprailiac areas of professional fashion models were significantly thinner than those of women in general (pfashion models were significantly lower than those in women in general (pfashion models was significantly greater (pfashion models is higher, due to taller stature, than in women in general. Moreover, there is an effort on the part of fashion models to lose weight in order to maintain a thin body and a low weight for occupational reasons. ©2017 The Korean Society for Exercise Nutrition
Kuusk, K.; Tomico, O.; Langereis, G.R.; Wensveen, S.A.G.
Smart textiles with its vast range of possibilities provide a considerable opportunity. for societal sustainability for the waste-oriented fashion industry. May the new textdes react to the environment, wearer, have a mind of its own or simply provoke and inspire people -it is a great tooi for the
Zande, M. van der; Bergmans, S.; Kamperman, N.; Vorst, B. van de
The production of fashionable footwear has basically been the same for almost a century. It consists of combining elements of various materials together formed around a physical shape - the last - thereby making a product that fits around the foot - the shoe. This process requires different stages
Zande, M. van der; Bergmans, S.; Kamperman, N.; Vorst, B. van de
The production of fashionable footwear has basically been the same for almost a century. It consists of combining elements of various materials together around a physical shape – the last – and thereby making a product around the foot – the shoe. This process requires different stages in production,
Heres, L.; Benschop, Y.W.M.
Purpose – Originating from the USA in the early 1990s, diversity management has been “imported” to Europe to become a fashionable practice in many business organizations. The aim of this paper is to provide further insight into whether and how the diversity management discourse challenges and
Eleonora Alves Baptista
Full Text Available This study aims to understand how the development of sustainable products in Brazilian fashion retail businesses creates value for the companies themselves, society and the environment. A qualitative approach to multiple case study method investigates practices and processes at four companies from Rio de Janeiro State. The study collected primary information from direct observation and interviews with the firms’ directors, and secondary data from industry reports and other documents. Three overall dimensions of the study - environmental management, value creation and product development in fast fashion companies - encoded into seven categories, when considered in data crosssynthesis, elucidate the following conclusions: (1 the firms do not have economic, ethical and legal fields integrated view; (2 the companies do not believe that the fashion consumer market values environmental practices and thus not motivated to invest in practices and products; (3 a fragmented supply chain makes it difficult to control activities and appears as a major constraint to the development of sustainable products; (4 access to information on best environmental practices and tax incentives are important inductors’ mechanisms to leverage the development of sustainable products in the Brazilian fashion retail; (5 the development of strategic capabilities in pollution prevention area, management products and clean technology create value for the production chain.
Thalita Silva Calíope
Full Text Available Fashion is recognized by transience, resulting in its short life cycle, since the constant changes make what was previously considered "fashionable" obsolete (Emidio & Sabione, 2010. In this market, innovate and act before competitors, accelerate the launch of products, reduce design time and the placement of new items on the market is a survival condition (Lipovetsky, 2007. A central factor in the fashion spread is imitation, as this promotes both innovation and obsolescence, forcing producers to set up periodically (Caulkins et al., 2007, Pesendorfer, 1995. The research object is the "modinha", women's clothing that follows media trends, is the copying, with or without changes, to the mass market (Avelar, 2009; Victor, 2007, in this study, "José Avelino Street Fair". This fair meets weekly hundreds of manufacturers in a metropolis of northeastern Brazil that has been established as a fashion hub. Thus, it was proposed to identify the process of innovation in companies that make “modinha” in this Fair. The research was conducted through a survey and data were obtained from a questionnaire administered with 78 stallholders. One descriptive and exploratory data analysis was performed. It was found that, contrary to expectation, a considerable formality, with 49 of the 78 respondents with CNPJ; its customers are small retailers; and their competitors are the stallholders. Regarding the creation of clothes models, the stallholders research in various sources and said imitating models from these sources, but they try to make changes.
Merlo, Elisabetta; Polese, Francesca
The chapter investigates the early development of the Italian fashion industry by considering the specific case of Milan at the end of the 19th century. It analyzes the emergence of a market for accessories in Milan, drawing on mail-order catalogues published by the Grandi Magazzini "Alle città d'Italia" in the 1880s
Kuipers, G.; van der Laan, E.; Arfini, E.A.G.
This article presents a comparative content analysis of gender representation in fashion magazines in Italy and the Netherlands. Updating Goffman’s classic study of Gender Advertisements, we study the intersections of gender, professional role, country and time in media representation. Thus, we
Fashion Inst. of Tech., New York, NY.
The drycleaning and laundering guide is the last of a series of five interrelated program resource guides encompassing the various dimensions of the fashion industry. The job-preparatory guide is intended to provide youth and adults with intensive preparation for initial entry employment and also with career advancement opportunities within…
Poldner, K.; Veenswijk, M.B.
In this paper, we focus on discursive responses which emerge in the backstage of globalised ecopreneurship industries during the process of identity formation. The focal organisation is ModaFusion, a young international fashion organisation, based in Rio de Janeiro. The central question of the paper
Fashion Inst. of Tech., New York, NY.
The textile design guide is the third of a series of five interrelated program resource guides encompassing the various dimensions of the fashion industry. The job-preparatory guide is conceived to provide youth and adults with intensive preparation for initial entry employment and also with career advancement opportunities within specific…
A high school fashion design teacher has much in common with the ringmaster of a three-ring circus. The challenges of teaching a hands-on course are to facilitate the entire class and to meet the needs of individual students. When teaching family and consumer sciences, the goal is to have a learner-active classroom. Revamping the high school's…
Mikitka, Kathleen Faith; Van Camp, Mary Lou
A study was done of higher education curricula with substantial enrollment by women (such as fashion merchandising and home economics) to examine the context and substance of the curricula, to identify infrastructures that have supported these programs, and to probe issues that face administrators, faculty and students engaged in such programs.…
GUO Peilian; WANG Yuzhen
Using the semi-tensor product of matrices,this paper investigates the computation of pure-strategy Nash equilibrium (PNE) for fashion games,and presents several new results.First,a formal fashion game model on a social network is given.Second,the utility function of each player is converted into an algebraic form via the semi-tensor product of matrices,based on which the case of two-strategy fashion game is studied and two methods are obtained for the case to verify the existence of PNE.Third,the multi-strategy fashion game model is investigated and an algorithm is established to find all the PNEs for the general case.Finally,two kinds of optimization problems,that is,the so-called social welfare and normalized satisfaction degree optimization problems are investigated and two useful results are given.The study of several illustrative examples shows that the new results obtained in this paper are effective.
Pedersen, E.R.G.; Lauesen, L.M.; Kourula, A.
Purpose The purpose of this paper is to examine to what extent the conventional stakeholder model mirrors managerial perceptions of the stakeholder environment in the Swedish fashion industry. The authors aim to adopt a novel approach to stakeholder measurement, as the traditional stakeholder model
Ashmore, Richard D.; And Others
Used a functional framework of the perception of female physical attractiveness in a sample of 96 college students viewing 96 photographs of female fashion models. Suggests perceivers should differentiate sexual (sexy), youthful, nonsexual (cute), and up-to-date clothed and groomed (trendy) dimensions. Indicates areas of both convergence and…
... glimpses of the state of the art of fabrics of those times. This espousal of textile technology is a significant aspect of costume history. On the whole, the paper has demonstrated the potential of the content of indigenous songs as sources of dress-fabric, fashion trends and event-dress in their wider socio-cultural contexts.