Book review: Extreme ocean waves
Geist, Eric L.
2017-01-01
“Extreme Ocean Waves”, edited by E. Pelinovsky and C. Kharif, second edition, Springer International Publishing, 2016; ISBN: 978-3-319-21574-7, ISBN (eBook): 978-3-319-21575-4The second edition of “Extreme Ocean Waves” published by Springer is an update of a collection of 12 papers edited by Efim Pelinovsky and Christian Kharif following the April 2007 meeting of the General Assembly of the European Geosciences Union. In this edition, three new papers have been added and three more have been substantially revised. Color figures are now included, which greatly aids in reading several of the papers, and is especially helpful in visualizing graphs as in the paper on symbolic computation of nonlinear wave resonance (Tobisch et al.). A note on terminology: extreme waves in this volume broadly encompass different types of waves, including deep-water and shallow-water rogue waves (which are alternatively termed freak waves), and internal waves. One new paper on tsunamis (Viroulet et al.) is now included in the second edition of this volume. Throughout the book, the reader will find a combination of laboratory, theoretical, and statistical/empirical treatment necessary for the complete examination of this subject. In the Introduction, the editors underscore the importance of studying extreme waves, documenting a dramatic instance of damaging extreme waves that recently occurred in 2014.
Statistics for long irregular wave run-up on a plane beach from direct numerical simulations
Didenkulova, Ira; Senichev, Dmitry; Dutykh, Denys
2017-04-01
overturning), it allows shock-wave formation and propagation with the speed given by Rankine-Hugoniot jump conditions, which to some extent approximates wave breaking. The scheme is second order accurate thanks to the UNO2 special reconstruction. It was described and validated in (Dutykh et al. 2011a) and has already been successfully used to simulate wave run-up on random beaches (Dutykh et al. 2011b). For simplicity the incident wave field offshore is taken Gaussian in the present study, however, this distribution can be easily changed in the numerical code. Similar to (Didenkulova et al. 2011), in order to study influence of wave nonlinearity during wave propagation to the coast we consider waves of different amplitudes and the corresponding modifications of statistics of the moving shoreline. We also consider wave fields with a different bandwidth, so that we can see the influence of the bandwidth of the incoming wave field on statistics of wave run-up on a beach. In order to validate the numerical results we use the available experimental data of irregular wave run-up on a beach (Denissenko et al. 2011; 2013). For this in our simulations we use the corresponding bathymetry set-up: the flat part of the flume with a water depth of 3.5 m is matched with the beach of constant slope 1:6. The significant wave heights Hs are chosen according to (Denissenko et al. 2013) and are equal to 0.1m, 0.2m, 0.3m, 0.4m and 0.5m, while the bandwidth is selected as 0.1, 0.4 and 0.8, which allows comparison of the behavior of wide-band and narrow-band wave fields on the beach. The characteristic wave period is 20s, as in (Denissenko et al. 2013) that provides long wave condition. All time records contain several weeks of simulations that provides significant amount of data for extreme value statistics. [1] P. Denissenko, I. Didenkulova, E. Pelinovsky, J. Pearson. Influence of the nonlinearity on statistical characteristics of long wave runup. Nonlinear Processes in Geophysics 18, 967
Emerging Trends and Prospects for Future U.S.-European Competition and Collaboration
1992-01-01
total of 345,000), and an additional 170,000 indirectly involved in defense activities. Trevor Taylor and Keith Hayward, The UK Defense Industria Base...Istituto per Is Recostruzione Industrials. 1 14Ente Partecipazioni e Finaniamento Industria Manufatturiera. 115Until the fall of 1990 EFIM was actually...Construcci6nes Aeronauticas S.A. (CASA), aircraft; Empresa Nacional Bazan de Construcci6nes Novales Militares, shipbuilding; Santa Barbara, ord- ll80ne
Book review: Rogue waves in the ocean
Geist, Eric L.
2011-01-01
Rogue Waves in the Ocean (2009) is a follow-on text to Extreme Ocean Waves (2008) edited by Pelinovsky and Kharif, both published by Springer. Unlike the earlier text, which is a compilation of papers on a variety of extreme waves that was the subject of a scientific conference in 2007, Rogues Waves in the Ocean is written, rather than edited, by Kharif, Pelinovsky, and Slunyaev and is focused on rogue waves in particular. The book consists of six chapters covering 216 pages. As the subject matter of each chapter is distinct, references appear at the end of each chapter rather than at the end of the book. The preface shows how each of the chapters relates to the larger study of rogue waves. The result is a book with a nice mix of eyewitness observations, physical theory, and statistics.
Nonlinear dynamics of a soliton gas: Modified Korteweg-de Vries equation framework
Shurgalina, E. G.; Pelinovsky, E. N.
2016-05-01
Dynamics of random multi-soliton fields within the framework of the modified Korteweg-de Vries equation is considered. Statistical characteristics of a soliton gas (distribution functions and moments) are calculated. It is demonstrated that the results sufficiently depend on the soliton gas properties, i.e., whether it is unipolar or bipolar. It is shown that the properties of a unipolar gas are qualitatively similar to the properties of a KdV gas [Dutykh and Pelinovsky (2014) [1
Steinberg, Robert
2016-01-01
Robert Steinberg's Lectures on Chevalley Groups were delivered and written during the author's sabbatical visit to Yale University in the 1967-1968 academic year. The work presents the status of the theory of Chevalley groups as it was in the mid-1960s. Much of this material was instrumental in many areas of mathematics, in particular in the theory of algebraic groups and in the subsequent classification of finite groups. This posthumous edition incorporates additions and corrections prepared by the author during his retirement, including a new introductory chapter. A bibliography and editorial notes have also been added. This is a great unsurpassed introduction to the subject of Chevalley groups that influenced generations of mathematicians. I would recommend it to anybody whose interests include group theory. -Efim Zelmanov, University of California, San Diego Robert Steinberg's lectures on Chevalley groups were given at Yale University in 1967. The notes for the lectures contain a wonderful exposition of ...
Do the freak waves exist in soliton gas?
Shurgalina, Ekaterina; Pelinovsky, Efim
2016-04-01
The possibility of short-lived anomalous large waves (rogue waves) in soliton gas in the frameworks of integrable models like the Korteweg - de Vries - type equations is studied. It is shown that the dynamics of heteropolar soliton gas differs sufficiently from the dynamics of unipolar soliton fields. In particular, in the wave fields consisting of solitons with different polarities the freak wave appearance is possible. It is shown numerically in [Shurgalina and Pelinovsky, 2015]. Freak waves in the framework of the modified Korteweg-de Vries equation have been studied previously in the case of narrowband initial conditions [Grimshaw et al, 2005, 2010; Talipova, 2011]. In this case, the mechanism of freak wave generation was modulation instability of modulated quasi-sinusoidal wave packets. At the same time the modulation instability of modulated cnoidal waves was studied in the mathematical work [Driscoll & O'Neil, 1976]. Since a sequence of solitary waves can be a special case of cnoidal wave, the modulation instability can be a possible mechanism of freak wave appearance in a soliton gas. Thus, we expect that rogue wave phenomenon in soliton gas appears in nonlinear integrable models admitting an existence of modulation instability of periodic waves (like cnoidal waves). References: 1. Shurgalina E.G., Pelinovsky E.N. Dynamics of irregular wave ensembles in the coastal zone, Nizhny Novgorod State Technical University n.a. R.E. Alekseev. - Nizhny Novgorod, 2015, 179 pp. 2. Grimshaw R., Pelinovsky E., Talipova T., Sergeeva A. Rogue internal waves in the ocean: long wave model. European Physical Journal Special Topics, 2010, 185, 195 - 208. 3. Grimshaw R., Pelinovsky E., Talipova T., Ruderman M. Erdelyi R. Short-lived large-amplitude pulses in the nonlinear long-wave model described by the modified Korteweg-de Vries equation. Studied Applied Mathematics, 2005, 114 (2), 189. 4. Talipova T.G. Mechanisms of internal freak waves, Fundamental and Applied Hydrophysics
Meteotsunami disintegration and soliton forerunners on Atchafalaya shelf, Lousiana
Sheremet, Alex; Gravois, Uriah; Shrira, Victor
2016-04-01
Field observations collected on the Atcahfalaya shelf in 2008 captured in high detail the shoaling evolution of a meteotsunami, including its disintegration into a undular bore. One of the intriguing elements of this process is a spectacular 1.5-m solitary-wave (soliton) forerunner, that precedes the arrival of the meteotsunami by approximately 5 min, reaching the observation site propagating through relatively calm waters (a wave field of approximately 20-cm height). The source of the meteotsunami is identified as a squall line associated with a strong atmospheric perturbation. An inverse ray method used to estimate the meteotsunami path suggests that the meteotsunami propagated as a trapped wave, originating in shallow water and ending in shallow water. The process of the generation of the soliton forerunner is investigated using the variable-coefficient KdV equation first proposed by Ostrovsky and Pelinovsky (1975). Numerical scenarios indicate that the soliton is the product of the collision of a shoaling "multiple-bump" tsunami structure. Given the natural irregularities of the generation mechanism of the meteotsunami, this suggests that such solitary-wave foreunners might be more common than expected. Ostrovsky L.A., and E.N. Pelinovsky (1975). Refraction of nonlinear ocean waves in a beach zone. Izv Atmos Ocean Phys 11, 37-41.
Stochastic analysis and modeling of abnormally large waves
Kuznetsov, Konstantin; Shamin, Roman; Yudin, Aleksandr
2016-04-01
In this work stochastics of amplitude characteristics of waves during the freak waves formation was estimated. Also amplitude characteristics of freak wave was modeling with the help of the developed Markov model on the basis of in-situ and numerical experiments. Simulation using the Markov model showed a great similarity of results of in-situ wave measurements[1], results of directly calculating the Euler equations[2] and stochastic modeling data. This work is supported by grant of Russian Foundation for Basic Research (RFBR) n°16-35-00526. 1. K. I. Kuznetsov, A. A. Kurkin, E. N. Pelinovsky and P. D. Kovalev Features of Wind Waves at the Southeastern Coast of Sakhalin according to Bottom Pressure Measurements //Izvestiya, Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics, 2014, Vol. 50, No. 2, pp. 213-220. DOI: 10.1134/S0001433814020066. 2. R.V. Shamin, V.E. Zakharov, A.I. Dyachenko. How probability for freak wave formation can be found // THE EUROPEAN PHYSICAL JOURNAL - SPECIAL TOPICS Volume 185, Number 1, 113-124, DOI: 10.1140/epjst/e2010-01242-y 3.E. N. Pelinovsky, K. I. Kuznetsov, J. Touboul, A. A. Kurkin Bottom pressure caused by passage of a solitary wave within the strongly nonlinear Green-Naghdi model //Doklady Physics, April 2015, Volume 60, Issue 4, pp 171-174. DOI: 10.1134/S1028335815040035
Initial-value problem for the Gardner equation applied to nonlinear internal waves
Rouvinskaya, Ekaterina; Kurkina, Oxana; Kurkin, Andrey; Talipova, Tatiana; Pelinovsky, Efim
2017-04-01
The Gardner equation is a fundamental mathematical model for the description of weakly nonlinear weakly dispersive internal waves, when cubic nonlinearity cannot be neglected. Within this model coefficients of quadratic and cubic nonlinearity can both be positive as well as negative, depending on background conditions of the medium, where waves propagate (sea water density stratification, shear flow profile) [Rouvinskaya et al., 2014, Kurkina et al., 2011, 2015]. For the investigation of weakly dispersive behavior in the framework of nondimensional Gardner equation with fixed (positive) sign of quadratic nonlinearity and positive or negative cubic nonlinearity {eq1} partial η/partial t+6η( {1± η} )partial η/partial x+partial ^3η/partial x^3=0, } the series of numerical experiments of initial-value problem was carried out for evolution of a bell-shaped impulse of negative polarity (opposite to the sign of quadratic nonlinear coefficient): {eq2} η(x,t=0)=-asech2 ( {x/x0 } ), for which amplitude a and width x0 was varied. Similar initial-value problem was considered in the paper [Trillo et al., 2016] for the Korteweg - de Vries equation. For the Gardner equation with different signs of cubic nonlinearity the initial-value problem for piece-wise constant initial condition was considered in detail in [Grimshaw et al., 2002, 2010]. It is widely known, for example, [Pelinovsky et al., 2007], that the Gardner equation (1) with negative cubic nonlinearity has a family of classic solitary wave solutions with only positive polarity,and with limiting amplitude equal to 1. Therefore evolution of impulses (2) of negative polarity (whose amplitudes a were varied from 0.1 to 3, and widths at the level of a/2 were equal to triple width of solitons with the same amplitude for a 1) was going on a universal scenario with the generation of nonlinear Airy wave. For the Gardner equation (1) with the positive cubic nonlinearity coefficient there exist two one-parametric families of
Computational power and generative capacity of genetic systems.
Igamberdiev, Abir U; Shklovskiy-Kordi, Nikita E
2016-01-01
Semiotic characteristics of genetic sequences are based on the general principles of linguistics formulated by Ferdinand de Saussure, such as the arbitrariness of sign and the linear nature of the signifier. Besides these semiotic features that are attributable to the basic structure of the genetic code, the principle of generativity of genetic language is important for understanding biological transformations. The problem of generativity in genetic systems arises to a possibility of different interpretations of genetic texts, and corresponds to what Alexander von Humboldt called "the infinite use of finite means". These interpretations appear in the individual development as the spatiotemporal sequences of realizations of different textual meanings, as well as the emergence of hyper-textual statements about the text itself, which underlies the process of biological evolution. These interpretations are accomplished at the level of the readout of genetic texts by the structures defined by Efim Liberman as "the molecular computer of cell", which includes DNA, RNA and the corresponding enzymes operating with molecular addresses. The molecular computer performs physically manifested mathematical operations and possesses both reading and writing capacities. Generativity paradoxically resides in the biological computational system as a possibility to incorporate meta-statements about the system, and thus establishes the internal capacity for its evolution. Copyright © 2016 Elsevier Ireland Ltd. All rights reserved.
Key Figures of the Russian Vanguard: Historical Roots
Directory of Open Access Journals (Sweden)
Elena G. Lapshina
2015-09-01
Full Text Available In article activity of sign figures of the Russian vanguard of Vladimir Evgrafovich Tatlin, the first Soviet designer, and Efim Vladimirovich Ravdel, the first rector of the Highest state art and technical workshops is considered. The special attention is paid to the Penza period of their life. In 1905 Tatlin began the vocational education in Penza in Art school of N.D. Seliverstov upon termination of whom gained the diploma of the artist with the right of teaching drawing, drawing and calligraphy. During training he was admitted to school in Tsege's salon, participated in an exhibition of the third salon of the Golden Fleece magazine in Moscow. Then Tatlin moves to Moscow where arranges own workshop. Revolutionary events found Tatlin in St. Petersburg where he became the informal leader of «futurists». In April, 1918 he was appointed the chairman of the Moscow art board of Department FROM Narkompros. He taught in picturesque workshops of the Moscow and Petrograd Svomas. Ravdel since 1918 was the head of department of arts of Board of National education of the Penza provincial council of country and working deputies; I organized drama studio, national conservatory, the museum; I participated in exhibitions, debates, etc. In detail the reform of the Penza art school (1918-1920 which was carried out by it, attraction of pedagogical shots (D.P. Buryshkin, D.M. Iofan, etc., a set of entrants, etc. is considered; creation of an architectural workshop of the Penza free state art workshops. In 1920 Ravdel went to Moscow where held the rector's position of Highest state art and technical workshops (1920-1923.
Chernov, Anton; Kurkin, Andrey; Pelinovsky, Efim; Yalciner, Ahmet; Zaytsev, Andrey
2010-05-01
A short cut numerical method for evaluation of the modes of free oscillations of the basins which have irregular geometry and bathymetry was presented in the paper (Yalciner A.C., Pelinovsky E., 2007). In the method, a single wave is inputted to the basin as an initial impulse. The respective agitation in the basin is computed by using the numerical method solving the nonlinear form of long wave equations. The time histories of water surface fluctuations at different locations due to propagation of the waves in relation to the initial impulse are stored and analyzed by the fast Fourier transform technique (FFT) and energy spectrum curves for each location are obtained. The frequencies of each mode of free oscillations are determined from the peaks of the spectrum curves. Some main features were added for this method and will be discussed here: 1. Instead of small number of gauges which were manually installed in the studied area the information from numerical simulation now is recorded on the regular net of the «simulation» gauges which was place everywhere on the sea surface in the depth deeper than "coast" level with the fixed presetted distance between gauges. The spectral analysis of wave records was produced by Welch periodorgam method instead of simple FFT so it's possible to get spectral power estimation for wave process and determine confidence interval for spectra peaks. 2. After the power spectral estimation procedure the common peak of studied seiche can be found and mean spectral amplitudes for this peak were calculated numerically by a Simpson integration method for all gauges in the basin and the mean spectral amplitudes spatial distribution map can be ploted. The spatial distribution helps to study structure of seiche and determine effected dangerous areas. 3. Nested grid module in the NAMI-DANCE - nonlinear shallow water equations calculation software package was developed. This is very important feature for complicated different scale (ocean
Rogue wave variational modelling through the interaction of two solitary waves
Gidel, Floriane; Bokhove, Onno
2016-04-01
The extreme and unexpected characteristics of Rogue waves have made them legendary for centuries. It is only on the 1st of January 1995 that these mariners' tales started to raise scientist's curiosity, when such a wave was recorded in the North Sea; a sudden wall of water hit the Draupner offshore platform, more than twice higher than the other waves, providing evidence of the existence of rogue or freak waves. Since then, studies have shown that these surface gravity waves of high amplitude (at least twice the height of the other sea waves [Dyste et al., 2008]) appear in non-linear dispersive water motion [Drazin and Johnson, 1989], at any depth, and have caused a lot of damage in recent years [Nikolkina and Didenkulova, 2011 ]. So far, most of the studies have tried to determine their probability of occurrence, but no conclusion has been achieved yet, which means that we are currently unenable to predict or avoid these monster waves. An accurate mathematical and numerical water-wave model would enable simulation and observation of this external forcing on boats and offshore structures and hence reduce their threat. In this work, we aim to model rogue waves through a soliton splash generated by the interaction of two solitons coming from different channels at a specific angle. Kodama indeed showed that one way to produce extreme waves is through the intersection of two solitary waves, or one solitary wave and its oblique reflection on a vertical wall [Yeh, Li and Kodama, 2010 ]. While he modelled Mach reflection from Kadomtsev-Petviashvili (KP) theory, we aim to model rogue waves from the three-dimensional potential flow equations and/or their asymptotic equivalent described by Benney and Luke [Benney and Luke, 1964]. These theories have the advantage to allow wave propagation in several directions, which is not the case with KP equations. The initial solitary waves are generated by removing a sluice gate in each channel. The equations are derived through a
Generation of rogue waves in a wave tank
Lechuga, A.
2012-04-01
Rogue waves have been reported as causing damages and ship accidents all over the oceans of the world. For this reason in the past decades theoretical studies have been carried out with the double aim of improving the knowledge of their main characteristics and of attempting to predict its sudden appearance. As an effort on this line we are trying to generate them in a water tank. The description of the procedure to do that is the objective of this presentation. After Akhmediev et al. (2011) we use a symmetric spectrum as input on the wave maker to produce waves with a rate(Maximun wave height/ significant wave height) of 2.33 and a kurtosis of 4.77, clearly between the limits of rogue waves. As it was pointed out by Janssen (2003), Onorato et al. (2006) and Kharif, Pelinovsky and Slunyaev (2009) modulation instability is enhanced when waves depart from Gaussian statistics (i.e. big kurtosis) and therefore both numbers enforce the criterion that we are generating genuine rogue waves. The same is confirmed by Shemer (2010) and Dudley et al.(2009) from a different perspective. If besides being symmetrical the spectrum is triangular, following Akhmediev(2011),the generated waves are even more conspicuously rogue waves.
Steady internal waves in an exponentially stratified two-layer fluid
Makarenko, Nikolay; Maltseva, Janna; Ivanova, Kseniya
2016-04-01
The problem on internal waves in a weakly stratified two-layered fluid is studied analytically. We suppose that the fluid possess exponential stratification in both the layers, and the fluid density has discontinuity jump at the interface. By that, we take into account the influence of weak continuous stratification outside of sharp pycnocline. The model equation of strongly nonlinear interfacial waves propagating along the pycnocline is considered. This equation extends approximate models [1-3] suggested for a two-layer fluid with one homogeneous layer. The derivation method uses asymptotic analysis of fully nonlinear Euler equations. The perturbation scheme involves the long wave procedure with a pair of the Boussinesq parameters. First of these parameters characterizes small density slope outside of pycnocline and the second one defines small density jump at the interface. Parametric range of solitary wave solutions is characterized, including extreme regimes such as plateau-shape solitary waves. This work was supported by RFBR (grant No 15-01-03942). References [1] N. Makarenko, J. Maltseva. Asymptotic models of internal stationary waves, J. Appl. Mech. Techn. Phys, 2008, 49(4), 646-654. [2] N. Makarenko, J. Maltseva. Phase velocity spectrum of internal waves in a weakly-stratified two-layer fluid, Fluid Dynamics, 2009, 44(2), 278-294. [3] N. Makarenko, J. Maltseva. An analytical model of large amplitude internal solitary waves, Extreme Ocean Waves, 2nd ed. Springer 2015, E.Pelinovsky and C.Kharif (Eds), 191-201.
AKNS eigenvalue spectrum for densely spaced envelope solitary waves
Slunyaev, Alexey; Starobor, Alexey
2010-05-01
The problem of the influence of one envelope soliton to the discrete eigenvalues of the associated scattering problem for the other envelope soliton, which is situated close to the first one, is discussed. Envelope solitons are exact solutions of the integrable nonlinear Schrödinger equation (NLS). Their generalizations (taking into account the background nonlinear waves [1-4] or strongly nonlinear effects [5, 6]) are possible candidates to rogue waves in the ocean. The envelope solitary waves could be in principle detected in the stochastic wave field by approaches based on the Inverse Scattering Technique in terms of ‘unstable modes' (see [1-3]), or envelope solitons [7-8]. However, densely spaced intense groups influence the spectrum of the associated scattering problem, so that the solitary trains cannot be considered alone. Here we solve the initial-value problem exactly for some simplified configurations of the wave field, representing two closely placed intense wave groups, within the frameworks of the NLS equation by virtue of the solution of the AKNS system [9]. We show that the analogues of the level splitting and the tunneling effects, known in quantum physics, exist in the context of the NLS equation, and thus may be observed in application to sea waves [10]. These effects make the detecting of single solitary wave groups surrounded by other nonlinear wave groups difficult. [1]. A.L. Islas, C.M. Schober (2005) Predicting rogue waves in random oceanic sea states. Phys. Fluids 17, 031701-1-4. [2]. A.R. Osborne, M. Onorato, M. Serio (2005) Nonlinear Fourier analysis of deep-water random surface waves: Theoretical formulation and and experimental observations of rogue waves. 14th Aha Huliko's Winter Workshop, Honolulu, Hawaii. [3]. C.M. Schober, A. Calini (2008) Rogue waves in higher order nonlinear Schrödinger models. In: Extreme Waves (Eds.: E. Pelinovsky & C. Kharif), Springer. [4]. N. Akhmediev, A. Ankiewicz, M. Taki (2009) Waves that appear from
Charland, Jenna; Touboul, Julien; Rey, Vincent
2013-04-01
Wave propagation against current : a study of the effects of vertical shears of the mean current on the geometrical focusing of water waves J. Charland * **, J. Touboul **, V. Rey ** jenna.charland@univ-tln.fr * Direction Générale de l'Armement, CNRS Délégation Normandie ** Université de Toulon, 83957 La Garde, France Mediterranean Institute of Oceanography (MIO) Aix Marseille Université, 13288 Marseille, France CNRS/INSU, IRD, MIO, UM 110 In the nearshore area, both wave propagation and currents are influenced by the bathymetry. For a better understanding of wave - current interactions in the presence of a 3D bathymetry, a large scale experiment was carried out in the Ocean Basin FIRST, Toulon, France. The 3D bathymetry consisted of two symmetric underwater mounds on both sides in the mean wave direction. The water depth at the top the mounds was hm=1,5m, the slopes of the mounds were of about 1:3, the water depth was h=3 m elsewhere. For opposite current conditions (U of order 0.30m/s), a huge focusing of the wave up to twice its incident amplitude was observed in the central part of the basin for T=1.4s. Since deep water conditions are verified, the wave amplification is ascribed to the current field. The mean velocity fields at a water depth hC=0.25m was measured by the use of an electromagnetic current meter. The results have been published in Rey et al [4]. The elliptic form of the "mild slope" equation including a uniform current on the water column (Chen et al [1]) was then used for the calculations. The calculated wave amplification of factor 1.2 is significantly smaller than observed experimentally (factor 2). So, the purpose of this study is to understand the physical processes which explain this gap. As demonstrated by Kharif & Pelinovsky [2], geometrical focusing of waves is able to modify significantly the local wave amplitude. We consider this process here. Since vertical velocity profiles measured at some locations have shown significant
Investigations of coastal zones using a modular amphibious vehicle
Zeziulin, Denis; Makarov, Vladimir; Filatov, Valery; Beresnev, Pavel; Belyakov, Vladimir; Kurkin, Andrey
2017-04-01
The project aims to develop a means of verification of data on sea excitement derived from Autonomous mobile robotic system (AMRS) for coastal monitoring and forecasting marine natural disasters [Kurkin A., Pelinovsky E., Tyugin D., Giniyatullin A., Kurkina O., Belyakov V., Makarov V., Zeziulin D., Kuznetsov K. Autonomous Robotic System for Coastal Monitoring // Proceedings of the 12th International Conference on the Mediterranean Coastal Environment MEDCOAST. 2015. V. 2. P. 933-944]. The chassis of the developed remote-controlled modular amphibious vehicle (MAV) will be equipped with a video camera and a hydrostatic wave-plotting device with strings sensors mounted on the stationary body's supports. To track the position of the MAV there will be installed the navigation system in order to correct the measurement data. The peculiarity of the tricycle MAV is the ability to change its geometric parameters that will increase its stability to actions of destructive waves and mobility. In May-June 2016 authors took part in conducting field tests of the AMRS on the Gulf of Mordvinov (Sea of Okhotsk, Sakhalin Island). Participation in this expedition contributed to obtaining experimental data on the topography and the physical and mechanical properties of the surf zone of the most promising field of using the MAV as a road for its moving. Within the project there was developed a mathematical model of the MAV motion in coastal conditions taking into account the new analytical dependences describing the physical and mechanical characteristics of the ground surfaces and the landscape, as well as hydrodynamic effects of surf zones. The reasonable selection of rational parameters of the MAV and developing the methodology of creating effective vehicles for investigations of specific coastal areas of the Okhotsk Sea will be made by using the mathematical model.
Makarov, Vladimir; Kurkin, Andrey; Belyalov, Vladimir; Tyugin, Dmitry; Zezyulin, Denis
2017-04-01
The increase in spatial scales of studying coastal areas can be achieved by the use of mobile robotic systems (MRS) equipped with scanning equipment, video inspection system and positioning system. The project aims at increasing the capabilities for designing effective ground MRS through the use of advanced methods of forecasting characteristics of vehicle-terrain interaction in coastal zones, where hydrosphere, lithosphere, atmosphere and biosphere interact. In the period from 14 May to 18 June 2016 there was organized the expedition to Sakhalin Island for conducting full-scale testing autonomous MRS for coastal monitoring and forecasting marine natural disasters [Kurkin A.A., Zeziulin D.V., Makarov V.S., Zaitsev A.I., Belyaev A.M., Beresnev P.O., Belyakov V.V., Pelinovsky E.N., Tyugin D.Yu. Investigations of coastal areas of the Okhotsk sea using a ground mobile robot // Ecological systems and devices. 2016. No. 8. P. 11-17]. Within the framework of the expedition specific areas of terrain in the vicinity of Cape Svobodny were investigated (with the support of SRB AMR FEB RAS). Terrain areas were studied from the standpoint of possibility of the MRS movement. As a result of measuring all the necessary data on the physical-mechanical and geometric characteristics of the coastal zones, required to calculate the force factors acting on the MRS, and, accordingly, the parameters of its motion were received. The obtained data will be used for developing new statistical models of the physical-mechanical and geometrical characteristics of the coastal ground surfaces, creating methodology for assessing the efficiency and finding ways to optimize the design of the MRS.
Rogue waves in the ocean - review and progress
Pelinovsky, Efim; Kharif, Christian; Slunyaev, Alexey
2010-05-01
Rogue waves in the ocean and physical mechanisms of their appearance are discussed. Theyse waves are among waves naturally observed by people on the sea surface that represent inseparable feature of the Ocean. Rogue waves appear from nowhere, cause danger and disappear at once. They may occur at the surface of a relatively calm sea, reach not very high amplitudes, but be fatal for ships and crew due to their unexpectedness and abnormal features. The billows appear suddenly exceeding the surrounding waves twice and more, and obtained many names: abnormal, exceptional, extreme, giant, huge, sudden, episodic, freak, monster, rogue, vicious, killer, mad- or rabid-dog waves; cape rollers, holes in the sea, walls of water, three sisters… Freak monsters, though living for seconds, were able to arouse superstitious fear of the crew, cause damage, death of heedless sailors or the whole ship. All these epithets are full of human fear and feebleness. The serious studies of the phenomenon started about 20-30 years ago and have been intensified during the recent decade. The research is being conducted in different fields: in physics (search of physical mechanisms and adequate models of wave enhancement and statistics), in geoscience (determining the regions and weather conditions when rogue waves are most probable), and in ocean and coastal engineering (estimations of the wave loads on fixed and drifting floating structures). Thus, scientists and engineers specializing in different subject areas are involved in the solution of the problem. The state-of-art of the rogue wave study is summarized in our book [Kharif, Ch., Pelinovsky, E., and Slunyaev, A. Rogue Waves in the Ocean. Springer, 2009] and presented in given review. Firstly, we start with a brief introduction to the problem of freak waves aiming at formulating what is understood as rogue or freak waves, what consequences their existence imply in our life, why people are so worried about them. Then we discuss existing
Classification of regimes of internal solitary waves transformation over a shelf-slope topography
Terletska, Kateryna; Maderich, Vladimir; Talipova, Tatiana; Brovchenko, Igor; Jung, Kyung Tae
2015-04-01
depression may be converted to wave of elevation at the 'turning point' (h2 = h1) as they propagate from deep water onto a shallow shelf. Thus intersecting surfaces f1 and f2 divide three-dimensional diagram into four zones. Zone I located above two surfaces and corresponds to the non breaking regime. Zone II lies above 'breaking' surfaces but below the surface of changing polarity and corresponds to regime of changing polarity without breaking. Zone III lies above surface of changing polarity but below 'breaking' surfaces and corresponds to regime of wave breaking without changing polarity. Zone IV that located below two surfaces and corresponds to the regime of wave breaking with changing polarity. Regimes predicted by diagram agree with results of numerical modelling, laboratory and observation data. Based on the proposed diagram the regions in α, β, γ space with a high energy dissipation of ISW passed over the shelf-slope topography are distinguished. References Talipova T., Terletska K., Maderich V, Brovchenko I., Jung K.T., Pelinovsky E. and Grimshaw R. 2013. Internal solitary wave transformation over the bottom step: loss of energy. Phys. Fluids, 25, 032110 Vlasenko V., Hutter K. 2002. Numerical Experiments on the Breaking of Solitary Internal Waves over a Slope-Shelf Topography. J. Phys. Oceanogr., 32 (6), 1779-1793
Roadmap on optical rogue waves and extreme events
Akhmediev, Nail; Kibler, Bertrand; Baronio, Fabio; Belić, Milivoj; Zhong, Wei-Ping; Zhang, Yiqi; Chang, Wonkeun; Soto-Crespo, Jose M.; Vouzas, Peter; Grelu, Philippe; Lecaplain, Caroline; Hammani, K.; Rica, S.; Picozzi, A.; Tlidi, Mustapha; Panajotov, Krassimir; Mussot, Arnaud; Bendahmane, Abdelkrim; Szriftgiser, Pascal; Genty, Goery; Dudley, John; Kudlinski, Alexandre; Demircan, Ayhan; Morgner, Uwe; Amiraranashvili, Shalva; Bree, Carsten; Steinmeyer, Günter; Masoller, C.; Broderick, Neil G. R.; Runge, Antoine F. J.; Erkintalo, Miro; Residori, S.; Bortolozzo, U.; Arecchi, F. T.; Wabnitz, Stefan; Tiofack, C. G.; Coulibaly, S.; Taki, M.
2016-06-01
The pioneering paper ‘Optical rogue waves’ by Solli et al (2007 Nature 450 1054) started the new subfield in optics. This work launched a great deal of activity on this novel subject. As a result, the initial concept has expanded and has been enriched by new ideas. Various approaches have been suggested since then. A fresh look at the older results and new discoveries has been undertaken, stimulated by the concept of ‘optical rogue waves’. Presently, there may not by a unique view on how this new scientific term should be used and developed. There is nothing surprising when the opinion of the experts diverge in any new field of research. After all, rogue waves may appear for a multiplicity of reasons and not necessarily only in optical fibers and not only in the process of supercontinuum generation. We know by now that rogue waves may be generated by lasers, appear in wide aperture cavities, in plasmas and in a variety of other optical systems. Theorists, in turn, have suggested many other situations when rogue waves may be observed. The strict definition of a rogue wave is still an open question. For example, it has been suggested that it is defined as ‘an optical pulse whose amplitude or intensity is much higher than that of the surrounding pulses’. This definition (as suggested by a peer reviewer) is clear at the intuitive level and can be easily extended to the case of spatial beams although additional clarifications are still needed. An extended definition has been presented earlier by N Akhmediev and E Pelinovsky (2010 Eur. Phys. J. Spec. Top. 185 1-4). Discussions along these lines are always useful and all new approaches stimulate research and encourage discoveries of new phenomena. Despite the potentially existing disagreements, the scientific terms ‘optical rogue waves’ and ‘extreme events’ do exist. Therefore coordination of our efforts in either unifying the concept or in introducing alternative definitions must be continued. From
Institute of Scientific and Technical Information of China (English)
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2001-01-01
.International Archives of Photogrammetry and Remote Sensing,vol.33,B7/2,2000.7.13-16:Amsterdam:678～685 [11]Efim K.高分辨率卫星数据用于评估小麦作物的生产率参数=Estimation on the Productivity Parameters on Wheat Crops Using High Resolution Satellite Data.International Archives of Photogrammetry and Remote Sensing,vol.33,B7/2,2000.7.13-16:Amsterdam:717～722 [12]Franz K.轨道遥感数据和地学处理技术用于城市可持续性研究=Urban Sustainability Using Orbital Remote Sensing Data and Geoprocessing Techniques.International Archives of Photogrammetry and Remote Sensing,vol.33,B7/2,2000.7.13-16:Amsterdam:728～732 [13]Gulch E.关于制图要素自动化提取的数字系统=Digital Systems for Automated Cartographic Feature Extraction.International Archives of Photogrammetry and Remote Sensing,Vol.33,B2,2000.7.13-16:Amsterdam:241～256 [14]Allan L.陆军测量局数字摄影测量及其发展=Digital Photogrammetry,Developments at Ordnance Survey.International Archices of Photogrammetry and Remote Sensing,Vol,33,B2,2000.7.16-23:Amsterdam:46～51 [15]Habib A.解决摄影测量中匹配问题的新方法=New Approach to Solving Matching Problems in Photogrammetry.International Archives of Photogrammetry and Remote Sensing ,Vol.33,B2,2000.7.16-23:Amsterdam:257～264 [16]Hild H.影像-地图自动化配准方法=A Strategy for Automatic Image to Map Registration.International Archives of Photogrammetry and Remote Sensing,Vol.33,B2,2000.7.13-16:Amsterdam:287～294 [17]Mckeown D M.自动化特征提取的性能评价=Performance Evaluation for Automatic Feature Extraction.International Archives of Photogrammetry and Remote Sensing,Vol.33,B2,2000.7.13-16:Amsterdam:379～394 [18]Raizman Y.以色列国家GIS数据库的三维数字摄影测量更新=Three-dimensional Digital Photogrammetric Update of Israeli National GIS Data Base.International Archives of Photogrammetry and Remote Sensing,Vol.33,B2,2000.7.16-23:Amsterdam:443～448 [19]Saleh R.软拷贝摄影测